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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8
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what is the best oil to use on my chain/cassette/derailleur post ride or part of my scheduled maintainance
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#2 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 322
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Quote:
Theres a whole bunch! All of them are pretty good. Tr-Flow, Pedro's, Park, Motorex and many more. Most have different lubes for different conditions such as wet and muddy, dry and dusty, etc. |
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#3 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Suburban Chicago
Posts: 2,778
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Quote:
Wipe it off and don't apply any new lube on the bike. "Primitive rule #1: Never oil a chain on the bike. This means the chain should be cleaned of grit before oiling it and because this is practically impossible without submerging the chain in a solvent bath (kerosene or commercial solvent), it must be taken off the bicycle. Devices with rotating brushes, that can be clamped on the chain on the bicycle, do a fair job but are messy and do not prevent fine grit from becoming suspended in the solvent. External brushing or wiping moves grit out of sight, but mainly into the openings in the chain where subsequent oiling will carry it inside. Do not use gasoline because it is explosive and contains toxic light petroleum fractions that penetrate the skin. Removing the chain from the bicycle isn't always possible. There are times (after riding in the rain) when a chain screams for oil and a good cleaning is not practical. In that case rule #1 may be violated for humanitarian reasons. However, only an internally clean chain squeaks, so it isn't as bad as it sounds. Also, water is a moderately good lubricant, but as soon as the rain stops, it evaporates. Removing the solvent from the chain after rinsing is important. Compressed air is not readily available in the household nor is a centrifuge. Manually slinging the chain around outdoors works best if the chain is a closed loop but without pressing the pin completely in. The other way is to evaporate it. Accelerated drying methods by heating should be avoided, because they can be explosive. Lubricating the chain with hot 90W gear lube works but it is also efficient fly paper, collecting plenty of hardpack between sprockets and on the outside of the chain. Motor oil is far better, but motorcycle chain and chainsaw lubricants are better yet, because they have volatile solvents that allow good penetration for their relatively viscous lubricant. Paraffin (canning wax), although clean, works poorly because it is not mobile and cannot replenish the bearing surfaces once it has been displaced. This becomes apparent with any water that gets on the chain. It immediately sqeaks." From URL: http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadi...ance/chain.html
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David Ornee, Western Springs, IL USA |
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 116
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Quote:
Or, if you're lazy like me leave the chain on and: 1) spray WD-40 (or other penetrating lubricant) on a terry cloth towel and run the chain through the sprayed portion of the towel (turning the crank counter-clockwise). The terry fibers are long enough to clean most of the grit. 2) Be sure to get the jockey wheels free of grit w/ the same towel. 3) After that, get another clean towel (or an unused portion of the 1st towel) and wipe ALL of the excess WD-40 off the chain. 4) Use one of the recommended chainlubes listed above (I'm a fan of DuMonde lite) as per their instructions, or put a drop on every 3-4 rollers, and spin the chain to coat all of the links. 5) wipe the excess off of the chain and jockey wheels. 6) repeat as necessary. But you should take your chain off at least once/month and give it a solvent bath as stated above. Happy riding. ![]()
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Don't go making snow cones at your local dog park. You will surely regret it. |
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