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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 2
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Hello,
For some reason the far brake pad (the one that's the brake cable is screwed onto) sticks to the rim after breaking and would not go back to initial position (also the break cable does not return to initial position as it should), unless I move with my hand. It happens both on front and rear. I've tried everything in my knowledge, like playing with the small screw on the brake arm, adjusting the cable, searching this forum... nothing helped. The wheel is pretty much round with no noticable horizontal movement. I know this must be a very simple problem, I'm just not experienced enough to know what the problem is. Please help, Thanks, Ofer ![]() |
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#2 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Suburban Chicago
Posts: 2,777
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Quote:
I think the issue is in your cables and/or housings. Read Sheldon Brown's article at URL: http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
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David Ornee, Western Springs, IL USA |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 163
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try greasing the cables in the areas that they run through the cable housings. you may need new cables
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#4 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Hey, Thanks for the constructive reply. I was just wondering what kind of lubricant should I use for the cables. I've got the oil I use for oiling the chain and the grease for the brackets(Ploylube 1000 by Park). I think that the oil is the most suitable, what do u think? ![]() |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Suburban Chicago
Posts: 2,777
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Quote:
If you go to the atrticle I suggested you will read: "Modern plastic-lined cables have made the use of grease in-appropriate, because the viscosity of the grease makes for sluggish cable movement. This is a more critical concern with modern brake and gear systems that use weaker return springs, and with indexed shifting in general. Many manufacturers now recommend against using any lubrication on cables. It certainly should be avoided in the case of sealed systems such as Gore-Tex ®. Bicycles used in wet conditions, however, will often benefit by the application of a bit of oil, more as a rust-preventive than as a lubricant. The area of particular concern is the short loop of housing which carries the rear derailer cable around from the chain stay to the derailer. Some bicycles provide awkward cable routing which forces housing to enter cable stops/adjusting barrels at a fairly sharp angle. This is particularly common on rear cantilever brakes. It often helps to put a bit of grease on the bit of cable that runs through such fittings. Hardware Lubrication Much of the hardware associated with cables requires lubrication on assmbly. Adjusting barrels must have lubrication on their threads, if they are to remain usable. Anchor bolt threads should also be lubricated, lest the threads strip as you tighten them. Brake cable anchor bolts are the most important fasteners on a bicycle. They are small, and many of them have holes drilled through them, so it is easy to strip/break them, but... If you don't get the anchor bolts tight enough, the brakes will appear to work properly in normal use. Then, someday a bus will cut you off, and you will squeeze the brakes extra hard to make a panic stop...just when you need the brake to work their best, the cables will slip and the brakes will fail completely, with no warning."
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David Ornee, Western Springs, IL USA |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 163
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Quote:
try polylube under one of the housings and see how it holds up. if it's ok, put it under all of the housings. |
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