![]() |
View
New Forum Topics Today's Forum Topics Set as homepage |
|
|||||||
| |
||||
Welcome to CyclingForums.com You are currently viewing our website as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions. You will have to register before you can post to this thread. By joining our free online community you will have access to post new topics, communicate privately with other cyclingforums.com members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos and access other special features like product reviews and classifieds. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
I’ve got a nice old Centurion Pro Tour frame with cantis braze ons.
Seems the fork is narrower than newer forks equipped for cantis. As a result I can’t seem to fit Tektro Oryx brakes. Is there a new cantilever brake that is better suited or do I need to scrounge up and old vintage pair? Thanks, |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Stevie wrote:
> I’ve got a nice old Centurion Pro Tour frame with cantis braze ons. > Seems the fork is narrower than newer forks equipped for cantis. As a > result I can’t seem to fit Tektro Oryx brakes. Is there a new > cantilever brake that is better suited or do I need to scrounge up and > old vintage pair? Cantilevers and "V" are pretty much all of a group for geometry[1]. Frame and fork makers position brake studs both for rim diameter and for width. It may be that the designer intended a skinnier rim than yours. Modern touring bikes are about 80mm apart, some cross bikes smaller around 75mm. A 1978 vintage tandem here today is set at 66mm (presumably for a 19mm wide Araya 20A or some such). See what the distance is first. Some vintage designs used a smallish pad and modern ones on the same mounts may hit the fork blade on release, occluding the area for wheel changes. You can snip off the back end of a brake pad for clearance with no ill effects [2]. Lastly, Oryx uses a threaded not a smooth post. Make sure you have the smaller pair of spacers on the inside or, if there still isn't room, move all the spacers to the outside. You'll lose the shoe angle adjustment but you'll have more space. Do oil the brake shoe nut threads. [1] Yes, some models, as DC 960, were diminutive but if that was the original brake you can usually work around the narrow stud position. [2] Braking is all about swept area, not pad size. p.s. Where's Tom Sherman, Mr Footnote ? -- Andrew Muzi <www.yellowjersey.org/> Open every day since 1 April, 1971 ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
On Jun 6, 7:06*pm, Stevie <73git...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I’ve got a nice old Centurion Pro Tour frame with cantis braze ons. > Seems the fork is narrower than newer forks equipped for cantis. As a > result I can’t seem to fit Tektro Oryx brakes. Is there a new > cantilever brake that is better suited or do I need to scrounge up and > old vintage pair? > Traditional smooth stud type might give you a skosh more room. Could be a rim width problem. Tektro 862A, Shimano Altus are two cheap modern versions worth a shot. You can also move around the spacers on the Oryx, but then you'll likely end up with no toe in and loud brakes. |
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Stevie wrote:
> I’ve got a nice old Centurion Pro Tour frame with cantis braze ons. > Seems the fork is narrower than newer forks equipped for cantis. As a > result I can’t seem to fit Tektro Oryx brakes. Is there a new > cantilever brake that is better suited or do I need to scrounge up and > old vintage pair? The original Centurion Pro Tour (one of which I still have) didn't use cantis, the braze-ons were located /above/ the rim's brake surface, to fit a center-pull brake without the center "bridge" of the brake (both arms pivoted on the braze-on studs). I think maybe the later Pro Tours went to regular cantis, but I'm not sure. I think Rene Herse did something similar on /some/ of his bikes: See lower photo here: http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/images/herse1974.jpg Middle photo here: http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Fr...erse/Herse1.htm I've no idea if Herse's setup is the same as the Centurion. I've often wondered if the Centurion stud location would work for a roller-cam or U-brake, but I've never tried. Mark J. |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
On Jun 7, 1:43*pm, Mark <mandmljNOS...@NOSPAM.comcast.net> wrote:
> Stevie wrote: > > I’ve got a nice old Centurion Pro Tour frame with cantis braze ons. > > Seems the fork is narrower than newer forks equipped for cantis. As a > > result I can’t seem to fit Tektro Oryx brakes. Is there a new > > cantilever brake that is better suited or do I need to scrounge up and > > old vintage pair? > > The original Centurion Pro Tour (one of which I still have) didn't use > cantis, the braze-ons were located /above/ the rim's brake surface, to > fit a center-pull brake without the center "bridge" of the brake (both > arms pivoted on the braze-on studs). *I think maybe the later Pro Tours > went to regular cantis, but I'm not sure. Dia Compe Gran Compe cantis according to the '84 brochure: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/centuri...10pro-tour.html |
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
"Mark" <mandmljNOSPAM@NOSPAM.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:w8ydnckQULFcS9fVnZ2dnUVZ_vednZ2d@comcast.com... > Stevie wrote: >> I've got a nice old Centurion Pro Tour frame with cantis braze ons. >> Seems the fork is narrower than newer forks equipped for cantis. As a >> result I can't seem to fit Tektro Oryx brakes. Is there a new >> cantilever brake that is better suited or do I need to scrounge up and >> old vintage pair? > > The original Centurion Pro Tour (one of which I still have) didn't use > cantis, the braze-ons were located /above/ the rim's brake surface, to fit > a center-pull brake without the center "bridge" of the brake (both arms > pivoted on the braze-on studs). I rode a British bike set up this way and the center pull brakes really worked extremely well - much better in my opinion, than anything else around at the time. |
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
"Stevie" <73gitane@gmail.com> a écrit:
> I’ve got a nice old Centurion Pro Tour frame with cantis braze ons. > Seems the fork is narrower than newer forks equipped for cantis. > As a result I can’t seem to fit Tektro Oryx brakes. Is there a new > cantilever brake that is better suited or do I need to scrounge up > and old vintage pair? Are you using 700c wheels in a frame built for 27"? If so, that might not be helping. You might try a design where the brake arm is a plain cylindrical post that gives a little more freedom of pad location that a more conventional slot. Most models that spring to mind (SRP, Avid Tri-Align, WTB Speedmaster) are no longer made, but you might try eBay, e.g.: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...em=130228834128 http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...em=290236528548 James Thomson |
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
On Jun 6, 6:08*pm, A Muzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
> Stevie wrote: > > I’ve got a nice old Centurion Pro Tour frame with cantis braze ons. > > Seems the fork is narrower than newer forks equipped for cantis. As a > > result I can’t seem to fit Tektro Oryx brakes. Is there a new > > cantilever brake that is better suited or do I need to scrounge up and > > old vintage pair? > > Cantilevers and "V" are pretty much all of a group for geometry[1]. > Frame and fork makers position brake studs both for rim diameter and for > width. It may be that the designer intended a skinnier rim than yours. > Modern touring bikes are about 80mm apart, some cross bikes smaller > around 75mm. A 1978 vintage tandem here today is set at 66mm (presumably > for a 19mm wide Araya 20A or some such). See what the distance is first. > > Some vintage designs used a smallish pad and modern ones on the same > mounts may hit the fork blade on release, occluding the area for wheel > changes. You can snip off the back end of a brake pad for clearance with > no ill effects [2]. > > Lastly, Oryx uses a threaded not a smooth post. Make sure you have the > smaller pair of spacers on the inside or, if there still isn't room, > move all the spacers to the outside. You'll lose the shoe angle > adjustment but you'll have more space. Do oil the brake shoe nut threads. > > [1] Yes, some models, as DC 960, were diminutive but if that was the > original brake you can usually work around the narrow stud position. > [2] Braking is all about swept area, not pad size. > > p.s. Where's Tom Sherman, Mr Footnote ? > -- > Andrew Muzi > * <www.yellowjersey.org/> > * Open every day since 1 April, 1971 > ** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com** Thanks for the suggestions. I did some checking. The Centurion fork has ~50mm of clearance between blades. Compare that to ~70mm for my Surly LHT. Oryx cantis put the brake post between the fork and cantilever. Pads overlap the fork but this is not a problem since the forks are so wide. The original cantis put the brake post forward of the fork and the cantilever. That combined with a shorter original brake pad resuls in no overlap of the pad and fork. I really like the improved adjustability of newer cantis so I'll seriously consider cutting the pad so it does not overlap the fork. That or find newer cantis that put the brake post forward of the cantilever. Steve |
|