![]() |
View
New Forum Topics Today's Forum Topics Set as homepage |
|
|||||||
| |
||||
Welcome to CyclingForums.com You are currently viewing our website as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions. You will have to register before you can post to this thread. By joining our free online community you will have access to post new topics, communicate privately with other cyclingforums.com members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos and access other special features like product reviews and classifieds. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
First of all make a nice cup of tea (or your poison of choice), and sit down and read the instructions. Then re-read the instructions. Then realise that although the text says left side, the view is from the front of the forks, so appears to be the right. Next get the list of tools the instructions say you need. 3 Allen keys, an 8mm spanner, and a sharp knife. Then get the additional tools the instructions don't mention. An extra pair of hands. A roll of sticky tape. A wall with a large X on so you know where to bash your head. Some cardboard folded. A wicket keeper standing by to catch that bit that goes ping. Fix the brake handle to the handle bar, using a spare handy bolt, as no bolt for this was supplied. Loosely assemble the brakes as instructed. Use the card folded between one brake block and the rim as a spacer whilst you push the piston assembly onto the rim, and holding the clamp bit in place with your other hand. Using your third hand, tighten up the bolts. Repeat for the other side. Repeat for the first side as the block is misaligned. Repeat for the other side. (There may be more than one repetition here). Hit head against wall. Go make cup of tea (or your favourite poison). Next decide to shorten the hydraulic tube, this is the bit which requires four hands, and the sticky tape to hold the tubes whilst you search for the compression nut that attaches the tube to the brakes. (The nut goes ping, flies all the way across the garage just as you finish cutting through the hydraulic tube). In our next instalment, we shall discuss cycling around Bristol with only one gear (top), due to not having all the parts to replace the gear cable. |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
"Martin" <martin.dann@virgin.net> wrote in message
news:z02Zj.32234$ie5.18655@newsfe05.ams2... > Loosely assemble the brakes as instructed. > Use the card folded between one brake block and the rim as a spacer whilst > you push the piston assembly onto the rim, and holding the clamp bit in > place with your other hand. Using your third hand, tighten up the bolts. > Repeat for the other side. > Repeat for the first side as the block is misaligned. > Repeat for the other side. > (There may be more than one repetition here). Hey, they've got better than they used to be. Actually I didn't have much trouble with mine. Don't bother with card, position wrt rim can be sorted out later. Do clamp bolt up a bit, wiggle cylinder into appropriate place, tighten. To get cylinders a little further from the rim, loosen slightly, apply brake and the thing will move out, nice and easy. Of course my blocks might not be entirely true - but it doesn't matter! > Next decide to shorten the hydraulic tube, this is the bit which requires > four hands, and the sticky tape to hold the tubes whilst you search for > the compression nut that attaches the tube to the brakes. > (The nut goes ping, flies all the way across the garage just as you finish > cutting through the hydraulic tube). Ah well, I've never opened mine. Friend has an entire loop free coz he's not shortened his either :-) cheers, clive |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
On May 22, 8:20 am, "Clive George" <cl...@xxxx-x.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
> Ah well, I've never opened mine. Friend has an entire loop free coz he's not > shortened his either :-) I think I did mine...but it was _so_ long ago, I can't remember. I've done a lot of miles since then (ok, not really all that many miles, but I've changed many sets of brake blocks in the meantime, and would have had to change several sets of cables too). Maintenance? What's that? |
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Clive George wrote:
> "Martin" <martin.dann@virgin.net> wrote in message > news:z02Zj.32234$ie5.18655@newsfe05.ams2... > >> Loosely assemble the brakes as instructed. >> Use the card folded between one brake block and the rim as a spacer >> whilst you push the piston assembly onto the rim, and holding the >> clamp bit in place with your other hand. Using your third hand, >> tighten up the bolts. Repeat for the other side. >> Repeat for the first side as the block is misaligned. >> Repeat for the other side. >> (There may be more than one repetition here). > > Hey, they've got better than they used to be. Actually I didn't have > much trouble with mine. Don't bother with card, position wrt rim can > be sorted out later. Do clamp bolt up a bit, wiggle cylinder into > appropriate place, tighten. To get cylinders a little further from > the rim, loosen slightly, apply brake and the thing will move out, > nice and easy. > > Of course my blocks might not be entirely true - but it doesn't > matter! > >> Next decide to shorten the hydraulic tube, this is the bit which >> requires four hands, and the sticky tape to hold the tubes whilst >> you search for the compression nut that attaches the tube to the >> brakes. (The nut goes ping, flies all the way across the garage just >> as you finish cutting through the hydraulic tube). > > Ah well, I've never opened mine. Friend has an entire loop free coz > he's not shortened his either :-) Aye. Just cable tie the whole lot intact to your bike. |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Doki wrote:
>> >> Ah well, I've never opened mine. Friend has an entire loop free coz >> he's not shortened his either :-) > > Aye. Just cable tie the whole lot intact to your bike. If shortening a Magura hose is beyond your skills (which next to changing the blocks is about the easiest job with Magura's), maybe you shouldn't work on the brakesystem at all -- /Marten info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl |
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
In news:z02Zj.32234$ie5.18655@newsfe05.ams2,
Martin <martin.dann@virgin.net> tweaked the Babbage-Engine to tell us: [Magura Stuffs] You missed a bit. o Realise after three hours of swearing that the current model requires your canti posts to be 75 mm apart. As you are attempting to fit them to an elderly road machine, the canti posts of which are but 60 mm apart, they will not fit. Further realise that you've just spent quite a lot of money on something almost, but not quite, entirely useless (it can still be used as a paperweight, or for propping the door open). Bah! -- Dave Larrington <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk> Drugs are good, except when they kill you. |
|