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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 4
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I have been using generic brand tires for a few years.About $20.00 per tire. For some time now i get a flat about every 3 weeks (average 6-8 hours riding a week) and hate it. Used generics for along time and it was ok. Not lately. I use an older Schwinn 12 speed road bike with 27-1 1/4 tire/tube size. Can someone recommend some brands of this type that are more durable and more puncture resistant and what price range i should expect? Thanks
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Perth (Basso), West Australia
Posts: 3,510
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Continental Ultra Gator Skins come in 27x1 1/4.
They are the best for glass resistance we have found in Aus. ![]()
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Cheers, George. |
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#3 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 4,526
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Quote:
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Roskilde, Denmark
Posts: 308
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I commute 60km+ every day, all weathers, mostly along glass strewn cyclepaths.
Dutch Perfect are the only one that work. Every so often I'll try some other puncture proof, a few days later I buy another Dutch Perfect. |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Perth (Basso), West Australia
Posts: 3,510
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Quote:
I recently bought several rolls of Tar Impregnated Cotton Tape for (27x1 1/4) steel rims. Should prevent the rust around the spoke nipples as well. ![]() Conti Ultra Gator Skins have Kevlar!! ![]()
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Cheers, George. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The land where the shadows lie
Posts: 3,776
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Be sure to do some research and read reviews before you buy any skins though. There are some that fall apart after a few weeks/months, and thus cause flats instead of avoiding them.
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,114
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Bell Streetsters from Wal-Mart are good, but thick, large, and heavy for a 27.
I never had a puncture with my Panaracer Pasela TGs but destroyed a few due to sidewall damage. It's a skinwall. With thin road tires, you really have to inspect the tire after every ride to pick out the glass bits. They will eventually eat their way through even a kevlar belt if you leave them embedded in the tread. Try a longer stem for the bike. Most of the old 10-12 speeds were built tall enough but too short lengthwise.
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Your mouthwash ain't makin' it. |
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#8 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Perth (Basso), West Australia
Posts: 3,510
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Quote:
I have one frame here with 27" wheels. We measure it in "hands" and not cm. ![]()
__________________
Cheers, George. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,114
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The rule of thumb is: the point where the handlebar is clamped to the stem should obscure the front hub when you are riding with your hands on the lower part of the tenspeed handlebars.
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Your mouthwash ain't makin' it. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Inside the perimeter
Posts: 33
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I used to use tire liners. I commuted in an big city with lots of road debris. It seemed to help a lot with glass, and once they prevented a flat from a staple. I commuted with them for close to 15 years, and they helped. I never used expensive tires to commute and I would run them down to the threads sometimes.
The draw back was once or twice the liners cut my tubes and they sort of get in the way when mounting the tire/changing the tube. They were worth these disadvantages. Since I have moved (to a somewhat rural desert area) I get a lot of flats from tiny thorns and the liners were no help (nothing is), so I took them out. Some locals suggested Slime. I don't think it's worth the trouble.
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Semi Professional Advice (Free of Charge) |
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 29
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I just got this Cheng Shin C637 Road Tire 27 x 1-1/4" for my bike, it works fine for me, it's on sale at a deal site for only $6, maybe you can give it a look.
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#12 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,091
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Quote:
Hey Celia, that's a nice bike store you work for, there! Good try.
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"All that we see and seem is but a dream, within a dream..." |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 630
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You want PUNCTURE PROOF?!
Do this; Get a tyre the same size as your current tyre. Cut the beading off the second (not the fitted tyre) tyre. Take out the tube, fit the tyre with no beading inside the current tyre, refit the tube, inflat as needed. Presto - you will have ZERO FLATS! The down side is that the wheel will be a bit slower to ride. I've done this for winter here on my training bike and my average is a bit down and the bike feels slower but its a training ride bike so it doesn't matter and I know that no matter what glass is around its not going to flat I've only done it to my rear wheel as I've found over the years its almost always the rear that flats and its harder to get out etc. Here is an excellent example of how well it works; My friend commutes 19kms each way to work and back almost every weekday. He was averaging 3 punctures through glass every week. In the past 9 - 10 months he's done this he's only had one puncture - it was a builders large/sharp staple that went through both tyres and into the tube. He still picks glass out of his tyres but he's had not flats. Quote:
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#14 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 630
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Try an old tyre of the same size inside your existing tyre. Cut the beading off the inner tyre first. If its a kevlar belted tyre inside = better.
Just do the rear one first because as you know its almost only the rear that flats. Your bike will be a little slower to ride but = no flats A friend who commutes 38kms a day was averaging 3 / week. Did this to rear wheel - in 9/ 10 months - not one flat. I've recently done if for our coming winter here and although my average has dropped a little I'm prepared to go with that for training to not get flats. Quote:
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