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Cadence training

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Old 05-02.-2008, 11:11 AM   #1
ecandl
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Default Cadence training

I know cadence has been covered but I am looking for some specific advice. I started racing road/crits last year. This winter I have been focusing on raising my FTP with 2x20s 3-4 times a week. Lately I have been mixing in 7x3s to hit VO2max 1-2 times a week. My question is - does cadence matter? When I am riding 90-95% of FTP, my comfortable cadence is usually just above 80. During 7x3s riding 110% FTP my cadence is in the low 90s. When I try to increase cadence at the same power during a 2x20 or 7x3s, I feel like my effort to maintain power is far greater. I don't know if I could maintain power. Would it benefit me to work at raising my cadence? Does it even matter? Thanks
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Old 05-02.-2008, 11:25 AM   #2
Alex Simmons
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Default Re: Cadence training

Quote:
Originally Posted by ecandl
I know cadence has been covered but I am looking for some specific advice. I started racing road/crits last year. This winter I have been focusing on raising my FTP with 2x20s 3-4 times a week. Lately I have been mixing in 7x3s to hit VO2max 1-2 times a week. My question is - does cadence matter? When I am riding 90-95% of FTP, my comfortable cadence is usually just above 80. During 7x3s riding 110% FTP my cadence is in the low 90s. When I try to increase cadence at the same power during a 2x20 or 7x3s, I feel like my effort to maintain power is far greater. I don't know if I could maintain power. Would it benefit me to work at raising my cadence? Does it even matter? Thanks
Ask yourself this question:

What cadences/torques do I need to be able to ride at in the crits I typically race?

A quadrant analysis would probably help you better understand that (although it will show what you actually did as opposed to what you might do instead).

I don't know about your crits but I've ridden some where cadence can range from zero (sharp U turns) to 150rpm. Ability to accelerate quickly is key and it is much easier if you have both high torque/low speed ability as we as moderate torque/high speed capability.

But more importantly, think about riding a cadence at a given power level. The lower your starting leg speed (say at normal aerobic power levels), the greater the torque required to accelerate when the surge occurs.
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Old 05-02.-2008, 11:25 AM   #3
daveryanwyoming
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Default Re: Cadence training

Quote:
Originally Posted by ecandl
...Would it benefit me to work at raising my cadence? Does it even matter? Thanks
For crits, yes. It's very hard to power a big gear out of crit corners at 80 rpm. You'll cover attacks and get back on wheels faster if you can put out power with a bit more leg speed. Power is still the most important thing, but do at least some of your training at higher leg speeds and perhaps try some leg speed based microintervals to prepare for crits.

-Dave
Oops, looks like Alex beat me to the punch....
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Old 05-02.-2008, 08:41 PM   #4
BullGod
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Default Re: Cadence training

Quote:
Originally Posted by ecandl
Would it benefit me to work at raising my cadence? Does it even matter? Thanks

yeah it does.

3 reasons:

1: you want to race crits? A cadence of at least 100 is great for crits - you'll fly out of the corners without losing any ground, and you'll be able to respond quickly to the constant accelorations.

I can average 110 for 2 - 2.5hr crits. (when i'm pedalling)

2: Higher cadence means there is less resistance on each pedal stroke. This means less muscular wear on your legs during the race. you should feel fresher both during and after the race - especially the next day.

3: Higher cadence hits you harder on the cardio vascular front, and is easier on your legs. This means you get a harder workout, and you adapt to become more comfortable being out of breath and at very high HR for long periods. As well as benefiting your fitness this is also great for your performance - often in super fast races it really is a case of who can stay in the "pain zone" the longest.

I think you also might be overdoing the intensity in your training.

i think QUALITY L4 intervals can be done a max of 2x per week, and L5 intervals once a week, for 3 weeks at a time, then at least a week off.

You also need a couple of recovery rides after your intense workouts, and one longer endurance ride a week.

My advice would be to raise your cadence on your intervals (especially L5) and reduce the frequency of your intensive workouts - look to raise the quality - to do that you need to be well rested (recovered) when your go hard.

Having a good winter base also helps - although some forum members might disagree.
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Old 05-02.-2008, 09:40 PM   #5
Jono L
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Default Re: Cadence training

Quote:
Originally Posted by BullGod

Having a good winter base also helps - although some forum members might disagree.
Well it certainly doesn't hurt
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Old 06-02.-2008, 05:11 AM   #6
ecandl
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Default Re: Cadence training

Thanks all. I couldn't bring myself to do intervals this morning on the trainer so I worked on cadence/spinning instead. During my one leg drills, I found a dead spot at the 2-3 o-clock position. The deadspot occured when I got into the low 80s rpm. After 40 minutes trying to smooth things out, I got the deadspot to about 95rpm. Spinning up to 95 then felt more natural. I think a lot of my problem was that I had gotten used to a lower rpm because that is where I lost efficiency and started bouncing a little. I will keep drilling and see where I end up. I also believe higher rpms translate to less force per revolution and will save my legs over the course of a race. I think practice will be the key for me.
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Old 06-02.-2008, 05:49 AM   #7
swampy1970
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Default Re: Cadence training

One legged spins at 95 rpm. You don't cycle with one leg do you? Just teasing....

If you're racing then do whatever you need to do to keep with, or ahead of, the bunch. I wouldn't go so far from your current training to radically alter your pedalling style in one go - maybe just use one sprocket larger and increase the pedal rpm by the required amount to keep the speed you're at. Knocking the gear down by a couple of sprockets and adding 15 or 20 rpm might be a little fool hardy if you're not able to pedal smoothly at that rate.

Just like anything else, if you're not used to it, it will hurt and it will take time to master.

An alternative solution is just to get a bit stronger and ride off the front in a bigger gear.
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Old 06-02.-2008, 05:53 AM   #8
daveryanwyoming
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Default Re: Cadence training

Quote:
Originally Posted by BullGod
....Having a good winter base also helps - although some forum members might disagree.
Not sure if I'm included in that naysaying group but for the record, I definitely believe in winter base. I'll have 26 weeks of it in the bank by the time my first races roll around in April. The question is how we define "base" is it long miles in easy gears at relatively low intensity? Or is it solid aerobic base building ala Lydiard? I'll go with the latter and a lot of coaches will push the former. I haven't read a lot of forum posts that discourage base building, the question is what constitutes base?

-Dave
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Old 06-02.-2008, 06:03 AM   #9
MIHECH
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Default Re: Cadence training

Quote:
Originally Posted by daveryanwyoming
The question is how we define "base" is it long miles in easy gears at relatively low intensity? Or is it solid aerobic base building ala Lydiard? I'll go with the latter.
-Dave
And everyone with limited amout of time should follow.
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Old 06-02.-2008, 11:06 AM   #10
n crowley
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Default Re: Cadence training

During my one leg drills, I found a dead spot at the 2-3 o-clock position. [/QUOTE]


How did you manage to do that ?
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Old 06-02.-2008, 11:29 AM   #11
ecandl
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Default Re: Cadence training

Quote:
Originally Posted by n crowley
During my one leg drills, I found a dead spot at the 2-3 o-clock position.


How did you manage to do that ?[/QUOTE]
The 2-3 o-clock position was as if you were facing the bike from the right side. Both right and left sides had the same spot between the top of the pedal stroke (12-o-clock) and the point were I could start pushing down. At low rpms everything felt smooth. When I got to the 80s, I would lose tension in the chain, recapturing it when I started my downstroke. I would guess that no one has a perfect pedal stroke. Clip in with one foot yourself and start spinning as fast as you can. I think you will then understand.
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