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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: UK
Posts: 211
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for those of you who've fitted the cadence sensor on the powertap - are the readings much different to those obtained from the hub? I'm wondering if it is worth installing this option.
Thanks |
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#2 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mundelein, IL
Posts: 145
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Quote:
The hub readings I have seen from my old style pro and SL are all over the place. I don't know if the average reading over a period of time is correct or not. The wired cadence readings were reasonable and consistent. Don't actually know if they were correct. It stopped working anyway and I just removed it. TF |
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#3 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 140
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Quote:
For me, the hub cadence is (amazingly) usually right. It has some noise in it, so jumps around a bit here and there, but it's usually right. It's close enough in my case that I can't imagine anyone wanting the wired cadence. However, it seems people vary on this, so it might depend on you/your bike/? |
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#4 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mundelein, IL
Posts: 145
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Quote:
EDIT: Added a second pic of the wired cadence. - TF |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Draper, Utah
Posts: 523
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Quote:
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
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I compared my hub sensed cadence to a polar cadence sensor when I first got my 2.4 and they were the same. I didn't bother to buy the wireless cadence.
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Japan
Posts: 434
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My cadence readings on the hub are all but useless.
To "confirm" what Piotr said, my cadence evens out when I'm climbing hard. Using the hub cadence will fill in the 2-3 strokes of power before the pedal cadence sensor starts counting, but it typically gives you 2-3 rotations @ a wildly inaccurate high RPM.
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#8 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Eagle, ID
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Here's a comparison I made a while back: http://cyclingforums.com/showpost.p...84&postcount=50 Just a note, when using the cadence sensor I also saw anomalies when doing sprints if the PowerTap CPU was sent to "Pedal-Hub". But changing the setting to "Pedal Only" seems to have fixed this. This option can be found in Setup Menu #4. Last edited by Uhl : 29-10.-2007 at 01:17 AM. |
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#9 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 200
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Quote:
2. In general, even if cadence were accurate, it's pretty useless. Cadence is a red herring. 3. If you're really, truly, interested in cadence, it's often possible to recover the "true" cadence. 4. You shouldn't be really, truly, interested in doing that. |
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#10 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Seattle, WA/Vancouver BC
Posts: 554
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Quote:
Please expound on this comment. I'm very curious to hear how you've arrived at this conclusive statement. Personal experience, anecdotal evidence??? |
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#11 | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 200
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Quote:
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#12 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Seattle, WA/Vancouver BC
Posts: 554
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Quote:
Uh, ok, that explains everything... |
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#13 | |
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Community Team
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Newport, South Wales
Posts: 3,831
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Quote:
Not that RChung is the only person that thinks that. FWIW, when i first got each new model of Power Tap, i'd compare the hub only readings with an actual computer that measured cadence (e.g. SRM, Ergomo). While the instantaneous cadence could often be off, i used to find that the average for a ride was always within 1 or 2 revs/min compared to the actual cadence meter. I then pretty much promptly forget about cadence. Ric
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