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#1 |
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Guest
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I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track wheels really..can
one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt and nut type of axel ? are they hard to change ? Thanks Rob Wille |
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#2 |
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"Rob" <Marathonrob@shaw.ca> writes:
> I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track wheels really..can > one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt and nut type of axel > ? are they hard to change ? > > Thanks > Rob Wille > > You need track-bolted hub lockers/retainers rather than a quick-release system. But it isn't hard to do. Simply get yourself a couple of 15mm wrenches and eat your porridge. -- le Vent a Dos Davey Crockett Six-Day site: http://members.rogers.com/sixday/sixday.html |
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#3 |
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"Rob" <Marathonrob@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no... > I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track wheels really..can > one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt and nut type of axel > ? are they hard to change ? If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can also use a road wheel by replacing the skewer with one of the Allen head non-quick-release types. However, even if you've got a road wheel than can be used with a fixed cog (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant about doing this on the rear, as you might easily pull the wheel to the side with a strong jump. It works just fine with a front wheel, however. Andy Coggan |
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#4 |
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In article <doTdc.3611$k05.2503@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Andy
Coggan <acoggan@earthlink.net> wrote: > "Rob" <Marathonrob@shaw.ca> wrote in message > news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no... > > I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track wheels > really..can > > one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt and nut type of > axel > > ? are they hard to change ? > > If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can also use a road > wheel by replacing the skewer with one of the Allen head non-quick-release > types. However, even if you've got a road wheel than can be used with a > fixed cog (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant about doing > this on the rear, as you might easily pull the wheel to the side with a > strong jump. It works just fine with a front wheel, however. Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they use an allen screw with washer that is almost identical to the allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers with allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for this purpose. For the original poster, best to ask the officials at your local track about their policy on skewers. Some will allow skewers on the front wheel if the lever is taped to the fork. -WG |
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#5 |
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"warren" <warren@usvhremove.com> wrote in message > > Andy, > your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels are one of the most > popular track rear wheels and they use an allen screw with washer that > is almost identical to the allen bolt method used on the replacement > skewers with allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for > this purpose. > I'll believe that if you can show me some data where the clamping pressure of the skewers is similar to that of the ZIPP method or the traditional axle bolts. |
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#6 |
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dude... dont jack around... get an axle with 15mm bolts on it that way you are
covered no matter what... for mass start at a local level you may not ever have a problem with a skewer, but if you get to a high level you wouldnt want to chance it... and for sure if you EVER think you might do sprints in races or training or a standing start event like pursuit or kilo, or chariot races like at t-town you NEED a rear wheel with bolts... |
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#7 |
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As others have mentioned, use allen head skewers for front wheels.
I've used the allen head skewers for rea wheels also. I grease the threads to get extra clamping force. But a much better way to go is to use a cassette converter if it is a Shimano hub: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fixed-hubs.html Its at the top of the page. Switching back and forth is not instant but not too bad. Bob Schwartz cvcc@execpc.com |
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#8 |
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On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:35:55 GMT, warren <warren@usvhremove.com>
wrote: >In article <doTdc.3611$k05.2503@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Andy >Coggan <acoggan@earthlink.net> wrote: > >> "Rob" <Marathonrob@shaw.ca> wrote in message >> news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no... >> > I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track wheels >> really..can >> > one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt and nut type of >> axel >> > ? are they hard to change ? >> >> If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can also use a road >> wheel by replacing the skewer with one of the Allen head non-quick-release >> types. However, even if you've got a road wheel than can be used with a >> fixed cog (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant about doing >> this on the rear, as you might easily pull the wheel to the side with a >> strong jump. It works just fine with a front wheel, however. > >Andy, >your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels are one of the most >popular track rear wheels and they use an allen screw with washer that >is almost identical to the allen bolt method used on the replacement >skewers with allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for >this purpose. It's worth noting that the newest generation of Zipp's track hubs and disc wheel have abandoned the Allen-head bolts in favor of traditionally nutted axles. The old system was pretty marginal (particularly at the rear), but it worked as well and as often as it did largely because there was only a gap of a few mm between the head of the bolt and the axle end into which it was threaded. On the other hand, the Allen-head replacement skewers to which you refer must pass through the entire over-locknut axle width plus the left and right dropout before engaging the nut at the other end. On the front, that's a distance of 110 mm or so, the rear must span around 130 mm. Consider that you're winding up a slender fastener (~4 mm in diameter) that's twenty times (or more) as long as it is wide to a recommended torque value that's second only to the torque normally applied to secure your bike's cranks. Think you can get it tight enough for consistent security without wringing the head off? ------------------------------- John Dacey Business Cycles, Miami, Florida http://www.businesscycles.com Now in our twenty-first year. Our catalog of track equipment: eighth year online ------------------------------- |
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#9 |
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In article <mdtg70d4r554rsjagnkpli8io9uvcs16u0@4ax.com>, John Dacey
<jdacey@businesscycles.com> wrote: > On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:35:55 GMT, warren <warren@usvhremove.com> > wrote: > > >In article <doTdc.3611$k05.2503@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Andy > >Coggan <acoggan@earthlink.net> wrote: > > > >> "Rob" <Marathonrob@shaw.ca> wrote in message > >> news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no... > >> > I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track wheels > >> really..can > >> > one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt and nut type of > >> axel > >> > ? are they hard to change ? > >> > >> If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can also use a road > >> wheel by replacing the skewer with one of the Allen head non-quick-release > >> types. However, even if you've got a road wheel than can be used with a > >> fixed cog (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant about > >> doing > >> this on the rear, as you might easily pull the wheel to the side with a > >> strong jump. It works just fine with a front wheel, however. > > > >Andy, > >your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels are one of the most > >popular track rear wheels and they use an allen screw with washer that > >is almost identical to the allen bolt method used on the replacement > >skewers with allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for > >this purpose. > > It's worth noting that the newest generation of Zipp's track hubs and > disc wheel have abandoned the Allen-head bolts in favor of > traditionally nutted axles. The old system was pretty marginal > (particularly at the rear), but it worked as well and as often as it > did largely because there was only a gap of a few mm between the head > of the bolt and the axle end into which it was threaded. > > On the other hand, the Allen-head replacement skewers to which you > refer must pass through the entire over-locknut axle width plus the > left and right dropout before engaging the nut at the other end. On > the front, that's a distance of 110 mm or so, the rear must span > around 130 mm. Consider that you're winding up a slender fastener (~4 > mm in diameter) that's twenty times (or more) as long as it is wide to > a recommended torque value that's second only to the torque normally > applied to secure your bike's cranks. Think you can get it tight > enough for consistent security without wringing the head off? Hasn't happened yet. -WG |
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#10 |
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In article <107gasjb7rptrb9@corp.supernews.com>, Carl Sundquist
<carlsun@cox-internet.com> wrote: > "warren" <warren@usvhremove.com> wrote in message > > > > Andy, > > your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels are one of the most > > popular track rear wheels and they use an allen screw with washer that > > is almost identical to the allen bolt method used on the replacement > > skewers with allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for > > this purpose. > > > > I'll believe that if you can show me some data where the clamping pressure > of the skewers is similar to that of the ZIPP method or the traditional axle > bolts. It just has to work, and it does. If you're really worried about pulling the wheel you can also use those adjustable clips that go around the axle and droput. The problem that I see with the ZIPP allen bolts is that some people don't have the correct amount of axle exposed in the dropout. I find these two allen screw methods easier than the traditional 15mm bolts because the 15mm bolts and their washers are easier to move around (change chain tightness) while you're tightening them. -WG |
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#11 |
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In article <120420040907251001%warren@usvhremove.com>,
warren <warren@usvhremove.com> wrote: > The problem that I see with the ZIPP allen bolts is that some people > don't have the correct amount of axle exposed in the dropout. I find > these two allen screw methods easier than the traditional 15mm bolts > because the 15mm bolts and their washers are easier to move around > (change chain tightness) while you're tightening them. > > -WG I haven't seen the Zipp bolt setup, but it sounds a lot like the arrangement on the Phil Wood hubs, with one difference. The Phils don't have any axle that goes into the dropout, as the sockethead cap screws have a washer that has a sleeve section that is the diameter of the axle. You are correct that those are pretty easy to work when adjusting chain tension. The bolt/washer setup doesn't seem to move the wheel around when you're tightening them. You can definitely put far more tension on those bolts (I believe they're 8mm) than you can put on a bolt-style skewer that goes all the way across a hub. Those are only a 5mm bolt, and will stretch like mad because of all the unsupported length. I had Control Tech skewers like that for a while on my road bike, and I could pull a wheel crooked in angled dropouts when taking off from a light while seated. -- tanx, Howard Q: Can we call it a quagmire yet? remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok? |
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