![]() |
View
New Forum Topics Today's Forum Topics Set as homepage |
|
|||||||
| |
||||
Welcome to CyclingForums.com You are currently viewing our website as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions. You will have to register before you can post to this thread. By joining our free online community you will have access to post new topics, communicate privately with other cyclingforums.com members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos and access other special features like product reviews and classifieds. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
I have a bike that came with a sticker rather than a head badge. Since it's
a Chinese-made frame and a joy to ride and I was able to get a silver LE (joy) character for a reasonable price I want to use it as a head badge. It's sterling, fairly soft, and about 3.5x5cm. Any suggestions for how to bend it into a smooth curve so I can glue it to the head tube? |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
"Robert Canon" <rcanon@mail.utexas.edu> wrote in message news:TlVlc.63342$NR5.16944@fe1.texas.rr.com... > I have a bike that came with a sticker rather than a head badge. Since it's > a Chinese-made frame and a joy to ride and I was able to get a silver LE > (joy) character for a reasonable price I want to use it as a head badge. > It's sterling, fairly soft, and about 3.5x5cm. Any suggestions for how to > bend it into a smooth curve so I can glue it to the head tube? > > Robert - For the head badges that I have made (from brass) I have formed them using a wooden form. The diameter of a road bike head tube is a bit over 1 1/4". Using a 1 1/4 spade bit I bore a hole in a good piece of clear pine 2x4. I then split the 2x4 so that a bit less than half the diameter is available in one block for forming. Using a hardwood dowel of slightly less diameter than the diameter of the hole bored in the 2x4, I form the badge to the block. Use a rolling-pin type action to get the thing nicely rounded out. Spade bits and dowels are available in most any size you'd need at a well stocked hardware store. The piece needs to be properly set into the form and the first forming operation is the most important. If the piece is cocked or skewed you're screwed. The piece will be crooked when placed on the head tube. Silver should be easy to form. Brass is more difficult and it is often difficult to get the edges well formed. The pine should be soft enough not to damage the silver piece. Regards, Tom |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
"Tom Schmitz" <ctschmitz@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:HJWlc.9$gv6.7@dfw-service2.ext.ray.com... > > "Robert Canon" <rcanon@mail.utexas.edu> wrote in message > news:TlVlc.63342$NR5.16944@fe1.texas.rr.com... > > I have a bike that came with a sticker rather than a head badge. Since > > > Robert - > > For the head badges that I have made (from brass) I have formed them using a > wooden form. The diameter of a road bike head tube is a bit over 1 1/4". > Using a 1 1/4 spade bit I bore a hole in a good piece of clear pine 2x4. I > then split the 2x4 so that a bit less than half the diameter is available in > one block for forming. > > Using a hardwood dowel of slightly less diameter than the diameter of the > hole bored in the 2x4, I form the badge to the block. Use a rolling-pin type > action to get the thing nicely rounded out. > > Spade bits and dowels are available in most any size you'd need at a well > stocked hardware store. > > The piece needs to be properly set into the form and the first forming > operation is the most important. If the piece is cocked or skewed you're > screwed. The piece will be crooked when placed on the head tube. > > Silver should be easy to form. Brass is more difficult and it is often > difficult to get the edges well formed. > > The pine should be soft enough not to damage the silver piece. > > Regards, > > Tom > > A bit more clarity to the above.... As to the diameter of the hole to be bored... Measure your head tube's diameter. For the sake of discussion let's say it's 1.25". Measure the thickness of your piece that you want to use as a badge. Let's say it's a 1/16" thick (.062"). Double that (1/8" or .12") and add it to the diameter of your head tube. You need a bit that is 1.25" + .12"= 1.37" (1 3/8") in diameter. If you have a head tube that fits an 1 1/8" steerer then you may find that the spade bits are not available in the precise diameter you desire. As the diameters get larger the bits become less available in small fractional increments. It might be best to go on the small side in that case, and form the piece a bit tight to the head tube. Regards, Tom |
|