How to fix slipping rear skewer?

Bruni

Older shimano skewers were all steel with teeth. You didn't mention, but
this is a good match with horiz. DO's.
Tom

--
Bruni Bicycles
"Where art meets science"
brunibicycles.com
410.426.3420
HardwareLust <noone@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:1Udkc.2987$sK3.2108@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> My rear skewer (2002 Ultegra) refuses to stay put. I've got it tightened
> down to the point where I can barely close it. Going up a hill, if I get
> out of the saddle, it slips. I've taken the time to make sure there's no
> oil and/or grease on the dropouts or the skewer itself, but it just won't
> grab tight.
>
> Is there maybe another brand of skewer that would hold better? I seem to
> recall Sheldon B. saying that the stock Shimano ones hold the best, but
the
> one I have isn't working very well. Maybe I should just buy a new another
> one and try it? Should I maybe try a DA skewer or a 105 skewer?
>
> Open to any suggestions! It's aggravating!
>
> Thanks!
> H.
>
>

HardwareLust

My rear skewer (2002 Ultegra) refuses to stay put. I've got it tightened
down to the point where I can barely close it. Going up a hill, if I get
out of the saddle, it slips. I've taken the time to make sure there's no
oil and/or grease on the dropouts or the skewer itself, but it just won't
grab tight.

Is there maybe another brand of skewer that would hold better? I seem to
recall Sheldon B. saying that the stock Shimano ones hold the best, but the
one I have isn't working very well. Maybe I should just buy a new another
one and try it? Should I maybe try a DA skewer or a 105 skewer?

Open to any suggestions! It's aggravating!

Thanks!
H.

David L. Johnson

On Thu, 29 Apr 2004 20:50:05 +0000, HardwareLust wrote:

> My rear skewer (2002 Ultegra) refuses to stay put. I've got it tightened
> down to the point where I can barely close it. Going up a hill, if I get
> out of the saddle, it slips. I've taken the time to make sure there's no
> oil and/or grease on the dropouts or the skewer itself, but it just won't
> grab tight.
>
> Is there maybe another brand of skewer that would hold better? I seem to
> recall Sheldon B. saying that the stock Shimano ones hold the best, but the
> one I have isn't working very well. Maybe I should just buy a new another
> one and try it? Should I maybe try a DA skewer or a 105 skewer?

I don't believe it's the skewer at all. In order for a quick release to
work properly, the axle needs to not protrude all the way through the
dropout. My guess is that your axle is not quite centered, and one side,
the one that slips, sticks too far out.

Shimano QR's are indeed very good, all of them. It might be that yours is
malfunctioning, or maybe the spring is interfering, but the first thing to
look at is the axle.


--

David L. Johnson

__o | As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not
_`\(,_ | certain, and as far as they are certain, they do not refer to
(_)/ (_) | reality. -- Albert Einstein

HardwareLust

David L. Johnson wrote:

> I don't believe it's the skewer at all. In order for a quick release
> to work properly, the axle needs to not protrude all the way through
> the dropout. My guess is that your axle is not quite centered, and
> one side, the one that slips, sticks too far out.
>
> Shimano QR's are indeed very good, all of them. It might be that
> yours is malfunctioning, or maybe the spring is interfering, but the
> first thing to look at is the axle.

Thank you for the suggestion. I had not thought of that. Soon as I get
home tonight, I'm going to look for this.

Regards,
H.

Cipher

Hardwarelust wrote:
> My rear skewer (2002 Ultegra) refuses to stay put. I've got it tightened
> down to the point where I can barely close it. Thanks!
> H.



I'm not completely sure what your attempting to do here, but I'll guess
your trying to tighten/close your rear skewer with out having it
completely seated in the rear drop-outs. (If this is the case, it will
never stay were you want it, nor was it designed to). The rear wheel
properly installed should be completely seated in the rear drop-outs.

Secondly, you definitly should not have to crank down on a skewer to
close it... (You can place an excess load on your bearings/cones in
the process).



--

HardwareLust

Cipher wrote:
> I'm not completely sure what your attempting to do here, but I'll
> guess your trying to tighten/close your rear skewer with out having it
> completely seated in the rear drop-outs. (If this is the case, it will
> never stay were you want it, nor was it designed to). The rear wheel
> properly installed should be completely seated in the rear drop-outs.
>
> Secondly, you definitly should not have to crank down on a skewer to
> close it... (You can place an excess load on your bearings/cones in
> the process).

No, it's definitely seated completely in the rear dropout.

According to what I've read, I understand that the skewer should be just
tight enough so that it leaves a mark on your hand when you close it.

Paul Southworth

In article <fIekc.112456$L31.23129@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>,
HardwareLust <noone@nowhere.com> wrote:
>Cipher wrote:
>> I'm not completely sure what your attempting to do here, but I'll
>> guess your trying to tighten/close your rear skewer with out having it
>> completely seated in the rear drop-outs. (If this is the case, it will
>> never stay were you want it, nor was it designed to). The rear wheel
>> properly installed should be completely seated in the rear drop-outs.
>>
>> Secondly, you definitly should not have to crank down on a skewer to
>> close it... (You can place an excess load on your bearings/cones in
>> the process).
>
>No, it's definitely seated completely in the rear dropout.
>
>According to what I've read, I understand that the skewer should be just
>tight enough so that it leaves a mark on your hand when you close it.


That rule of thumb will result in some people overtightening
the skewer.

It is possible to burst the head of the skewer by overtightening,
which completely destroys it. How much it can handle depends a lot
on the design, it varies by manufacturer & model.

Ъ×

On Thu, 29 Apr 2004 22:03:02 GMT, cnhyf-1082952000@usenet.etext.org
(Paul Southworth) wrote:

>In article <fIekc.112456$L31.23129@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>,
>HardwareLust <noone@nowhere.com> wrote:
>>Cipher wrote:
>>> I'm not completely sure what your attempting to do here, but I'll
>>> guess your trying to tighten/close your rear skewer with out having it
>>> completely seated in the rear drop-outs. (If this is the case, it will
>>> never stay were you want it, nor was it designed to). The rear wheel
>>> properly installed should be completely seated in the rear drop-outs.
>>>
>>> Secondly, you definitly should not have to crank down on a skewer to
>>> close it... (You can place an excess load on your bearings/cones in
>>> the process).
>>
>>No, it's definitely seated completely in the rear dropout.
>>
>>According to what I've read, I understand that the skewer should be just
>>tight enough so that it leaves a mark on your hand when you close it.
>
>
>That rule of thumb will result in some people overtightening
>the skewer.
>
>It is possible to burst the head of the skewer by overtightening,
>which completely destroys it. How much it can handle depends a lot
>on the design, it varies by manufacturer & model.

David is likely right... this problem also appears with skinny
drop-outs. One fix - add a washer on the slippy side - Ъ×

Charles Beristain

also could be that the "teeth" on the skewer faces are worn so they
will no longer dig in and grab the dropouts firmly.

charlie

Ned Mantei

In article <1Udkc.2987$sK3.2108@nwrddc03.gnilink.net>,
"HardwareLust" <noone@nowhere.com> wrote:

>My rear skewer (2002 Ultegra) refuses to stay put. I've got it tightened
>down to the point where I can barely close it. Going up a hill, if I get
>out of the saddle, it slips. I've taken the time to make sure there's no
>oil and/or grease on the dropouts or the skewer itself, but it just won't
>grab tight.

The cam of the quick release might need a drop of oil to prevent
binding when closing it. I had this problem once and saw that after
oiling, the lever moved a bit closer to the frame when closing the quick
release, and after that everything was fine.

--
Ned Mantei
Department of Cell Biology, Swiss Federal Institute of Technology
CH-8093 Zurich, Switzerland

Zog The Undeniable

Bruni wrote:

> Older shimano skewers were all steel with teeth. You didn't mention, but
> this is a good match with horiz. DO's.

I've used Shimano steel, alloy and Control Tech allen key skewers on my
racing bike with horiz. dropouts. None of them slipped. There's
something not quite right with the OP's hub.

Paul Kopit

On Thu, 29 Apr 2004 22:32:59 -0400, Charles Beristain
<cberistain@comcast.net> wrote:

>also could be that the "teeth" on the skewer faces are worn so they
>will no longer dig in and grab the dropouts firmly.
>
>charlie

My Greg Lemond TI GL had horizontal, titanium dropouts. Only the
steel Shimano or Campy QR skewers were effective. Any alloy skewer
would not hold.

jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org

David L. Johnson writes:

>> My rear skewer (2002 Ultegra) refuses to stay put. I've got it
>> tightened down to the point where I can barely close it. Going up
>> a hill, if I get out of the saddle, it slips. I've taken the time
>> to make sure there's no oil and/or grease on the dropouts or the
>> skewer itself, but it just won't grab tight.

>> Is there maybe another brand of skewer that would hold better? I
>> seem to recall Sheldon B. saying that the stock Shimano ones hold
>> the best, but the one I have isn't working very well. Maybe I
>> should just buy a new another one and try it? Should I maybe try a
>> DA skewer or a 105 skewer?

> I don't believe it's the skewer at all. In order for a quick
> release to work properly, the axle needs to not protrude all the way
> through the dropout. My guess is that your axle is not quite
> centered, and one side, the one that slips, sticks too far out.

If the axle is too long (or dropouts too thin) the QR will bottom on
the axle and no manner of tightening will increase holding force on
the dropout. By the description, this sounds like the cause.
Besides, QR skewers serve only to press dropouts against the knurled
axle lock nuts, rather than doing any wheel positioning. QR skewer
clearance is large enough to make lateral displacement too large for
any axle positioning.

> Shimano QR's are good, all of them. It might be that yours is
> malfunctioning, or maybe the spring is interfering, but the first
> thing to look at is the axle.

It also make a difference what kind of brake is used?

Jobst Brandt
jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org

Bill K.

I've seen people having problems with 6/4 Ti dropouts. Very hard.
Tough for a QR to get a proper "bite."
If the Bike is steel or Al, the answer is probably one of the above.