New wheels - bad build

Rik O'Shea

I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves are made of
excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs). They look great,
however when I put them on the truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true
by more than a few mm, - both lateral and vertically (the rear is
hopping up and down), also the rim isn't centered on both the front
and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just bad
craftsmanship.

My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To provide a good
true wheel would you:
(1) just true up the wheel from the current starting point;
OR
(2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point and them
proceed to true the wheel.

Thanks

David Kerber

In article <7083199f.0404290644.4db5ca0a@posting.google.com>,
rikoshea@yahoo.com says...
> I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves are made of
> excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs). They look great,
> however when I put them on the truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true
> by more than a few mm, - both lateral and vertically (the rear is
> hopping up and down), also the rim isn't centered on both the front
> and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just bad
> craftsmanship.

I'd have a hard time believing a machine would do that bad of a job.
Usually they just leave the spokes too loose.

....

--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in the
newsgroups if possible).

Paul Southworth

In article <7083199f.0404290644.4db5ca0a@posting.google.com>,
Rik O'Shea <rikoshea@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves are made of
>excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs). They look great,
>however when I put them on the truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true
>by more than a few mm, - both lateral and vertically (the rear is
>hopping up and down), also the rim isn't centered on both the front
>and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just bad
>craftsmanship.
>
>My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To provide a good
>true wheel would you:
>(1) just true up the wheel from the current starting point;
>OR
>(2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point and them
>proceed to true the wheel.

I think most "wheel experts" would say

(3) Return to builder for repair or refund

--Paul

MikeYankee

No excuse for that. Complain & get your money back, including shipping charges
if any, and take your business elsewhere.


Mike Yankee

(Address is munged to thwart spammers.
To reply, delete everything after "com".)

jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org

Rik O'Shea writes:

> I just received a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves are made
> of excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs). They look
> great, however when I put them on the truing stand - ARRRH ! Not
> exactly true by more than a few mm, - both lateral and vertically
> (the rear is hopping up and down), also the rim isn't centered on
> both the front and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or
> just bad craftsmanship.

> My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To provide a good
> true wheel would you:

> (1) just true up the wheel from the current starting point;

> (2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point and them
> proceed to true the wheel.

Since you ask that way, I assume you bought these wheels because they
have the components you want and at a price that is better than buying
them separately, rather than to avoid building your own wheels.

On the other hand your question suggests you haven't done this often
so It's hard to asses your facility with a spoke wrench. I would put
a drop of light oil on every spoke nipple-rim eyelet and spoke
thread-spoke nipple interface and true the wheels. Unless the wheels
are highly tensioned, which is not likely, I see no reason to loosen.
This is a classic truing task that is starting from less than an ideal
condition.

If you want to simplify it you could back off each spoke nipple until
the first thread of each spoke is exposed and start from there.

Sending the wheels back will cost money and most likely won't get a
good set of wheels in return from a dealer who ships such poor quality
in the first place.

Jobst Brandt
jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org

daveornee

Rik O'Shea wrote:
> I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves are made of
> excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs). They look great,
> however when I put them on the truing stand
> - ARRRH ! Not exactly true by more than a few mm, - both lateral and
> vertically (the rear is hopping up and down), also the rim isn't
> centered on both the front and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by
> machine or just bad craftsmanship.
> My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To provide a good
> true wheel would you:
> (1) just true up the wheel from the current starting point; OR
> (2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point and them
> proceed to true the wheel.
> Thanks



What is your experience in tensioning, truing, spoke alignment, tension
balancing, and stress relieving? If it's not good enough for what you
want the final product to be either send the wheels back or get a local
wheel builder who can satisfy your needs. The fact that you have a
truing stand leads me to believe you have the answer in your head and
hands. The starting condition of your wheels will answer whether 1) or
2) is what you should do.



--

Harris

Rik O'Shea <rikoshea@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves are made of
> excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs). They look great,
> however when I put them on the truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true
> by more than a few mm, - both lateral and vertically (the rear is
> hopping up and down), also the rim isn't centered on both the front
> and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just bad
> craftsmanship.

Was this an eBay deal or something similar? Sounds like the wheels were
built by an amateur. I'd send 'em back.

But if you want to try and salvage them, first thing is to make sure the
spokes are all the correct lengths. Check at the nipples to see that the
spokes come at least to the bottom of the slot, but do not protrude beyond
the end of the nipple. If they're the correct length, I'd start by making
sure all of the spokes are engaged the same amount. Then lube the spokes,
nipples, and eyelets and proceed as described the "The Bicycle Wheeel."

Art Harris

Matt O'Toole

jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:

>> I just received a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves are made
>> of excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs). They look
>> great, however when I put them on the truing stand - ARRRH ! Not
>> exactly true by more than a few mm, - both lateral and vertically
>> (the rear is hopping up and down), also the rim isn't centered on
>> both the front and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or
>> just bad craftsmanship.

>> My question for the wheel experts is a simple one. To provide a good
>> true wheel would you:

>> (1) just true up the wheel from the current starting point;

>> (2) loosen all spokes to get to the initial starting point and them
>> proceed to true the wheel.

> Since you ask that way, I assume you bought these wheels because they
> have the components you want and at a price that is better than buying
> them separately, rather than to avoid building your own wheels.

This can be a good way to go -- if you're prepared to work on them a little.

> On the other hand your question suggests you haven't done this often
> so It's hard to asses your facility with a spoke wrench. I would put
> a drop of light oil on every spoke nipple-rim eyelet and spoke
> thread-spoke nipple interface and true the wheels. Unless the wheels
> are highly tensioned, which is not likely, I see no reason to loosen.
> This is a classic truing task that is starting from less than an ideal
> condition.

> If you want to simplify it you could back off each spoke nipple until
> the first thread of each spoke is exposed and start from there.

> Sending the wheels back will cost money and most likely won't get a
> good set of wheels in return from a dealer who ships such poor quality
> in the first place.

I agree. Either retension these wheels yourself, or get a shop to do it for
$25-30. In most cases, you'll still come out way ahead.

The rear wheel on my MTB was a take-off I got from Supergo for $30. After
retensioning it myself, I've had several years of good service, with only a
couple of minor adjustments.

Matt O.

Jeff Wills

David Kerber <ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net> wrote in message news:<MPG.1afae11e89e531e989754@news.ids.net>...
> In article <7083199f.0404290644.4db5ca0a@posting.google.com>,
> rikoshea@yahoo.com says...
> > I just recieved a new set of wheels. The wheels themselves are made of
> > excellent components (DT rims, spokes and hubs). They look great,
> > however when I put them on the truing stand - ARRRH ! Not exactly true
> > by more than a few mm, - both lateral and vertically (the rear is
> > hopping up and down), also the rim isn't centered on both the front
> > and rear. Maybe the wheels were built by machine or just bad
> > craftsmanship.
>
> I'd have a hard time believing a machine would do that bad of a job.
> Usually they just leave the spokes too loose.
>
> ...

Ditto. You're better off returning them- but if you want to keep
them, loosen everything, lube the spoke threads and nipple seats, then
round, true and tension... carefully.

Jeff