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#1 |
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Guest
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Shifting on a bike with 1500 miles on drive train lost crispness during a
ride. I started messing around with the barrel adjuster near head tube. Then I really screwed it up. Not sure what happened to shifting. Maybe worn chain. No matter what, I'm going to have to "start over", and I've forgotten how to set up Campy 10. I could search out the official Campy instructions. More interested in how wrenches set it up though. Thanks. Gary Jacobson Rosendale, NY |
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#2 |
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Gary-<< No matter what, I'm going to have to "start over", and I've forgotten
how to set up Campy 10. >><BR><BR> Set it up like any rear der. Center the pulley on the smallest cog, rear der and frameset barrel adjuster all the way in, inner wire wee bit slack, shift once, turn barrel adjuster until pulley centered on second cog...shift up the cogset, push on der body to ensure upper limit screw is set..then do the front der... Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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#3 |
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Ok, I just did the adjustment, and at least on the stand it works fine. But
I remembered that Sachs, and maybe Mavic suggested to use the third or fourth cog as the "set point". So I just went to official Campy site to see what they had to say and they say to use the fourth cog. Why would that be from a mechanical point of view? Does the tolerance for center to center pulley under cog change as the deraillure arcs over the course of the ten cogs? Or do they recommend the fourth cog because it is easier to sight the c-c relationship? Next I'll see what if anything Zinn has to say. I realize this is "splitting hairs", and I'm more interested in what real wrenches do than what an engineer says or a tech dude writes. I mean aren't they same folks who say warranty voided if used in rain? Gary Jacobson Rosendale, NY "Qui si parla Campagnolo " <vecchio51@aol.com> wrote in message news:20040428085213.22633.00000399@mb-m15.aol.com... > Gary-<< No matter what, I'm going to have to "start over", and I've forgotten > how to > set up Campy 10. >><BR><BR> > > Set it up like any rear der. Center the pulley on the smallest cog, rear der > and frameset barrel adjuster all the way in, inner wire wee bit slack, shift > once, turn barrel adjuster until pulley centered on second cog...shift up the > cogset, push on der body to ensure upper limit screw is set..then do the front > der... > > Peter Chisholm > Vecchio's Bicicletteria > 1833 Pearl St. > Boulder, CO, 80302 > (303)440-3535 > http://www.vecchios.com > "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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#4 |
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Gary-<< So I just went to official Campy site to see
what they had to say and they say to use the fourth cog. Why would that be from a mechanical point of view? >><BR><BR> All shifting is referenced from the smallest cog. And THEN the shifter/der moves the rear der a certain amount. If the distance is too little, then the cable needs to be tightened. I don't know why they say this but they also say a modern rear der won't work with old, 8s ERGO levers, or a short cage rear der won't work with a 13/29 and a double and a long cage won't work with a 11t, and you cannot convert a 1999 lever to 10s.....ETC.... Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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