Fixing a flat on a rod-brake English roadster

Gary Young

I'm helping a friend fix up an old rod-brake English roadster (Triumph
brand). Just repairing a leak in the rear tire was a major ordeal -- I
disconnected the indicator chain and then removed the axle nuts,
fender stays and axle adjuster from the axle. Then I had to take apart
the chain because the last owner had shortened it so that there was no
room to move the wheel forward in the track-style fork ends. Even then
I couldn't get the rim out past the stirrup until I removed the brake
blocks. Is there something I'm missing? A quick release of some kind?

The rim/tire is 28"/735mm. Can I get away with using a 27" tube? Does
Mr. Tuffy make anything in the right size?

Sheldon Brown

Gary Young wrote:

> I'm helping a friend fix up an old rod-brake English roadster (Triumph
> brand). Just repairing a leak in the rear tire was a major ordeal -- I
> disconnected the indicator chain and then removed the axle nuts,
> fender stays and axle adjuster from the axle. Then I had to take apart
> the chain because the last owner had shortened it so that there was no
> room to move the wheel forward in the track-style fork ends. Even then
> I couldn't get the rim out past the stirrup until I removed the brake
> blocks. Is there something I'm missing? A quick release of some kind?

Nope, these are a notorious hemhorroid when it comes to wheel removal.=20
Be glad it doesn't have a chain case!

I've heard of folks just removing the left side axle nut and prying the=20
stays apart far enough to get a new tube over the end of the axle.

Sometimes, it makes more sense with one of these to patch the tube in sit=
u.

> The rim/tire is 28"/735mm.=20

Nope, 635.

> Can I get away with using a 27" tube?=20

This will work in a pinch, but considering how much trouble it is to=20
change, I think it would be worthwhile to get the correct size.

See: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/635

I've got a lot of info on this type of bike at:

http://sheldonbrown.com/english

Sheldon "Roadsters" Brown
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Phil Brown

>Is there something I'm missing?

You don't have to remove the wheel to patch a tube. Just pull a bit of it out
and patch it.
Phil Brown

A Muzi

Gary Young wrote:

> I'm helping a friend fix up an old rod-brake English roadster (Triumph
> brand). Just repairing a leak in the rear tire was a major ordeal -- I
> disconnected the indicator chain and then removed the axle nuts,
> fender stays and axle adjuster from the axle. Then I had to take apart
> the chain because the last owner had shortened it so that there was no
> room to move the wheel forward in the track-style fork ends. Even then
> I couldn't get the rim out past the stirrup until I removed the brake
> blocks. Is there something I'm missing? A quick release of some kind?
>
> The rim/tire is 28"/735mm. Can I get away with using a 27" tube? Does
> Mr. Tuffy make anything in the right size?

A 28x1-1/2 x 1-5/8 tube is best. (Maybe a 700-40 but those
are mostly presta.)
Next time, don't separate the chain. Slide the wheel
forward, derail the chain and then pull the wheel back.

Unlike the front brake return clips on the fork blades, your
rear clips on the chainstays are slotted. When the wheel is
forward, press the stirrup closed, under the rim, until you
can pop the ends out of their slots and let the stirrup drop
down out of the way ( It pivots - don't disconnect
anything). Now you may withdraw the wheel, noting that most
roadster mudguards will need a little coaxing ( translation=
yes, pull on it).

Lube your axle nuts, reinstall the wheel and slide it
forward. Now reconnect the stirrup in its slots. Place the
chain on the sprocket and pull the wheel back. Tension the
chain and tighten the axle nuts.

Practice practice practice. Some riders prefer to pull the
tube out from under the tire for a patch without moving the
wheel at all.


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971