Breaking chain for fixed gear

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com

Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

Cam

Zog The Undeniable

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com wrote:

> Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
> the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
> links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
> links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).
>
> As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

A standard SRAM PC48 is fine if you're using 3/16" sprockets and chainrings.

Chris Zacho The Wheelman

I've used SRAM/SuperLink QR links on both my tourer and my ATB for
decades with no breakage problem, but fixie chains may be a special
case.

Break the chain anywhere with a chain tool. A chain is and endless,
uniform circle, there is no correct or incorrect link to "break" on it.

- -

"May you have the wind at your back.
And a really low gear for the hills!"

Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

Chris'Z Corner
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

Marcus Coles

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com wrote:
> Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
> the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
> links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
> links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).
>
> As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?
>
> Cam
>

My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8", nickel
plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

It looks good and that alone inspires more confidence than the black $6
generic BMX chain.

According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track and
indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me a
little worried, but I'm hoping it's a dot thousands rather than a
decimal point.
I joined it with the supplied old style 3 piece spring clip master link.

I have about four hundred kilometers on it in mostly clean dry
conditions and have not broken it YET.

Marcus

Werehatrack

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 16:28:15 GMT, Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com may
have said:

>Where should one break a chain for fixed gear.

There is neither a right nor a wrong point if the chain is not
presently connectd using a master link.

> My LBS advised me not to use
>the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
>links.

If the lbs is selling weak quick links, they should find better ones.
I have never had a strength-related connector link failure with a
single-speed chain in 40 years of riding bikes. (I've had a couple of
the old-style ones become unclipped because of stuff hitting them and
knocking the spring clip off, but that's a different matter, and less
of a concern with the SRAM-style links.) Remember, regardless of the
fact that it's being used on a fixie, the load is always in the same
direction as far as the link is concerned, and unless the chainline is
running at an angle, the load is much more even than on a
derailleur-equipped bike. I would expect no more trouble with the
chain on a fixie than on any other bike, despite the fact that it's in
motion continuously when the bike is moving. If you don't learn to
modulate your leg action to avoid wasting power while riding, you'll
wear *yourself* out before you wear out the chain.

>However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
>links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

A valid but in my opinion often overstated concern in this instance,
and part of the reason why the SRAM connectors are favored so widely.
On a single-speed setup, the side forces should not be present which
would tend to hasten failure due to pin looseness, so it's probably
less of a concern than on multispeeds. Since I've always used
connector links on replacement single-speeds of mine, I've never had
to worry about it.

>As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

I'll second the nomination of the SRAM PC48.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Peter Cole

<Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com> wrote in message
news:slrnc8nc9h.go.cam@Cam.localnet...
> Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
> the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
> links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
> links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

Your LBS needs a little enlightening. The load on a fixed gear chain is much
less than a mountain bike chain. Chain tension is related to gear ratio.

> As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

SRAM PC-48.

B.C. Cletta

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com wrote in message news:<slrnc8nc9h.go.cam@Cam.localnet>...
> Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
> the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
> links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
> links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

i think your 'LBS' should be your 'fLBS', former LBS. all these
special chain issues deal w/ those created by the HyperGlide shift
pattern on the sprockets that rip the chain apart.

> As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?

i'm getting good service w/ the KMC Z410(?), 8-USD. quiet unless
it needs a lube. it may be a full bushing, i forget.

David L. Johnson

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 16:28:15 +0000, Cam wrote:

> Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
> the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
> links.

Bullshit. Even if it is, these are certainly strong enough. Remember
that some fat ol' guy struggling up a hill in his mountain bike, in his
granny, exerts more stress on the chain than Marty Nothstein in a sprint.
(Hint: It's because of the granny.) Lots of folks use these super-links
with no trouble, No reason to believe you won't.

> However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
> links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).

Much more of a concern than the super-link is.

I use Sram. Since I*have a bunch of 1/8" sprockets, I use the 1/8"
chain, the SR-1. $10-$15. If you have 3/32" sprockets and chainrings,
use the 8-speed chain, it's cheaper.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | If all economists were laid end to end, they would not reach a
_`\(,_ | conclusion. -- George Bernard Shaw
(_)/ (_) |

David L. Johnson

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 20:11:41 +0000, Marcus Coles wrote:

> My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8", nickel
> plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.

$25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.

> According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track and
> indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
> Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me a
> little worried,

You are joking, I hope.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | This is my religion. There is no need for temples; no need for
_`\(,_ | complicated philosophy. Our own brain, our own heart is our
(_)/ (_) | temple. The philosophy is kindness. --The Dalai Lama

G.T.

David L. Johnson wrote:
> On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 20:11:41 +0000, Marcus Coles wrote:
>
>
>>My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8", nickel
>>plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.
>
>
> $25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.
>
>
>>According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track and
>>indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
>>Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me a
>>little worried,
>
>
> You are joking, I hope.
>

Well, isn't 8.2 Newton pretty weak? 8,200 Newton is another story.

Greg

Phil Brown

>A standard SRAM PC48 is fine if you're using 3/16" sprockets and chainrings.

I think you mean 3/32". That's standard derailleur chain. Track chainwheels and
cogs take either 1/8" or 3/32".
Phil Brown

A Muzi

Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com wrote:

> Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
> the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
> links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
> links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).
>
> As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?


Any 1/8 BMX chain, under $10 and use the supplied snaplink.
People want to make this difficult/mysterious but it is not.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Marcus Coles

David L. Johnson wrote:
> On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 20:11:41 +0000, Marcus Coles wrote:
>
>
>>My fixed gear recently got a new Wippermann 152, 1/2" x 1/8", nickel
>>plated, bushing type chain. $25 Canadian.
>
>
> $25 -- even Canadian -- is a lot for a chain.
>
Not for a shiny chain :-), for comparison I think my last yucky black
genuine Shimano 9 speed chain cost me $19.00 at the LBS.
>
>>According to the package it is intended for "citybikes, BMX, track and
>>indoor sport" and "breaking load: 8.200 Newton".
>>Since I weigh 200lbs and stand on the pedals, this last one has me a
>>little worried,
>
>
> You are joking, I hope.
>
Yeah, IIRC 8.200 Newton is something less than 80lbs force.
I think the change to the use of the comma to define thousands did not
happen during translation to english for the packaging text.

Marcus

Steve

On 4/25/04 3:52 PM, in article 108ogbnc4uaugad@corp.supernews.com, "A Muzi"
<am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

> Cam@*nospam*icantfeelmylegs.com wrote:
>
>> Where should one break a chain for fixed gear. My LBS advised me not to use
>> the proprietary quick link as it's breaking strength was less than regular
>> links. However, with new chains, I worry about the integrity of rejoined
>> links (ie. short pins with mushroomed heads).
>>
>> As an aside, can anyone recommend a good economy chain for fixies?
>
>
> Any 1/8 BMX chain, under $10 and use the supplied snaplink.
> People want to make this difficult/mysterious but it is not.

That is it!!.....................The answer for the ??


Whether you use "road pitch" or "track pitch" 1/8" (track) chains are
strong, cheap and work great. They do make a little noise if you are running
road pitch gears