Installing a UN53 BB

John Everett

I just had to replace the cartridge BB on my touring bike.
The LBS had a UN53 in the right size (68x118, in case anyone
cares). As I was paying for it I opened the box to check for
the service instructions, which were missing. I said I was
wondering about the torque specs and the guy at the register
said 30 ft.lbs.

This seemed a bit low to me, so when I got home I dug
through my stack of old service instructions and found the
ones that came with a UN71 I'd purchased many years ago. It
says 50-70 Nm, which is 36-51 ft.lbs.; so I torqued the
drive side 50 ft.lbs. I seem to recall that on the UN71 the
adapter (that's what the non-drive side sleeve is called in
the SIs) was aluminum. The UN53's is plastic. I was
concerned about the possibility of stripping it, so I
torqued it until it "felt right" which turned out to be
about 30 ft.lbs.

Does anyone have a set of UN53 Service Instructions laying
around? If so , what are the torque specs?

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

Greg Estep

On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 21:01:53 GMT, John Everett wrote:

> I just had to replace the cartridge BB on my touring bike.
> The LBS had a UN53 in the right size (68x118, in case
> anyone cares). As I was paying for it I opened the box to
> check for the service instructions, which were missing. I
> said I was wondering about the torque specs and the guy at
> the register said 30 ft.lbs.
>
> This seemed a bit low to me, so when I got home I dug
> through my stack of old service instructions and found the
> ones that came with a UN71 I'd purchased many years ago.
> It says 50-70 Nm, which is 36-51 ft.lbs.; so I torqued the
> drive side 50 ft.lbs. I seem to recall that on the UN71
> the adapter (that's what the non-drive side sleeve is
> called in the SIs) was aluminum. The UN53's is plastic. I
> was concerned about the possibility of stripping it, so I
> torqued it until it "felt right" which turned out to be
> about 30 ft.lbs.
>
> Does anyone have a set of UN53 Service Instructions laying
> around? If so , what are the torque specs?

I don't know about the UN53 specifically, but the BB-
UN52 also has a resin (what most people call plastic)
adapter. The specs for the UN52 say that both the
adapter and the main body's tightening torque is 50-70
Nm (435-608 in. lbs.).

--
Greg Estep

Zeeexsixare

Greg Estep wrote:
> On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 21:01:53 GMT, John Everett wrote:
>
>> I just had to replace the cartridge BB on my touring
>> bike. The LBS had a UN53 in the right size (68x118, in
>> case anyone cares). As I was paying for it I opened the
>> box to check for the service instructions, which were
>> missing. I said I was wondering about the torque specs
>> and the guy at the register said 30 ft.lbs.
>>
>> This seemed a bit low to me, so when I got home I dug
>> through my stack of old service instructions and found
>> the ones that came with a UN71 I'd purchased many years
>> ago. It says 50-70 Nm, which is 36-51 ft.lbs.; so I
>> torqued the drive side 50 ft.lbs. I seem to recall that
>> on the UN71 the adapter (that's what the non-drive side
>> sleeve is called in the SIs) was aluminum. The UN53's is
>> plastic. I was concerned about the possibility of
>> stripping it, so I torqued it until it "felt right" which
>> turned out to be about 30 ft.lbs.
>>
>> Does anyone have a set of UN53 Service Instructions
>> laying around? If so , what are the torque specs?
>
> I don't know about the UN53 specifically, but the BB-
> UN52 also has a resin (what most people call plastic)
> adapter. The specs for the UN52 say that both the
> adapter and the main body's tightening torque is 50-70
> Nm (435-608 in. lbs.).

I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just
because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with the
teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of putting BBs
on, in my opinion.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Nick Caratzas

John Everett <jeverett3@earthlink.DEFEAT.UCE.BOTS.net> wrote in message news:<p4ooe0ll5h2c3ln7utjdeeo9oh5rh3fqr2@4ax.com>...

> Does anyone have a set of UN53 Service Instructions laying
> around? If so , what are the torque specs?
>

I just put one in last week. The instructions specify
50 to 70 Nm.

Peter Cole

"ZeeExSixAre" <phil_leeIHEARTBASHGUARDS@hotmail.com> wrote
>
> I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just
> because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with
> the teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of putting
> BBs on, in my opinion.

If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers (to
space the length), you can just bolt the tool to the
spindle. I found that I had to use a pipe wrench to remove
my last BB, no problem with slipping (Shimano UN style).

G.Daniels

would a 'deep reach clamp' help? a metal/wood working clamp,
about 20 bucks in various lengths. serious. clamp an arab to
the device. bang. virgins!

Nick Caratzas

"Peter Cole" <peter_cole_no_spam_at_all@comcast.net> wrote in message news:<RreHc.43519$MB3.34197@attbi_s04>...
> "ZeeExSixAre" <phil_leeIHEARTBASHGUARDS@hotmail.com> wrote
> >
> > I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just
> > because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with
> > the teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of
> > putting BBs on, in my opinion.
>
> If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers (to
> space the length), you can just bolt the tool to the
> spindle. I found that I had to use a pipe wrench to remove
> my last BB, no problem with slipping (Shimano UN style).

There's always the old quick-release-skewer-and-adjustable-
wrench trick:

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcartdg.shtml

Zeeexsixare

Nick Caratzas wrote:
> "Peter Cole" <peter_cole_no_spam_at_all@comcast.net> wrote
> in message news:<RreHc.43519$MB3.34197@attbi_s04>...
>> "ZeeExSixAre"
>> <phil_leeIHEARTBASHGUARDS@hotmail.com> wrote
>>>
>>> I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just
>>> because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with
>>> the teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of
>>> putting BBs on, in my opinion.
>>
>> If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers (to
>> space the length), you can just bolt the tool to the
>> spindle. I found that I had to use a pipe wrench to
>> remove my last BB, no problem with slipping (Shimano UN
>> style).
>
> There's always the old quick-release-skewer-and-adjustable-
> wrench trick:
>
> http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcartdg.shtml

The Raceface BB tool I have to use doesn't have flats to use
an adjustable on it... it just has the 1/8" socket opening.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Peter Cole

"Nick Caratzas" <caratzas@aol.com> wrote
> "Peter Cole" <peter_cole_no_spam_at_all@comcast.net> wrote
> >
> > If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers
> > (to space the
length),
> > you can just bolt the tool to the spindle. I found that
> > I had to use a
pipe
> > wrench to remove my last BB, no problem with slipping
> > (Shimano UN style).
>
> There's always the old quick-release-skewer-and-adjustable-
> wrench trick:
>
> http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcartdg.shtml

Works for hollow spindles, unfortunately UN53 is solid, as
are all the BB's on my dozen or so family bikes...

Zilla

Peter Cole <peter_cole_no_spam_at_all@comcast.net> wrote:
> "ZeeExSixAre" <phil_leeIHEARTBASHGUARDS@hotmail.com> wrote
>>
>> I find it difficult sometimes to get BBs on and off just
>> because it's so hard keeping the damn tool engaged with
>> the teeth of the BB... that's the hardest part of putting
>> BBs on, in my opinion.
>
> If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers (to
> space the length), you can just bolt the tool to the
> spindle. I found that I had to use a pipe wrench to remove
> my last BB, no problem with slipping (Shimano UN style).

That's a damn good idea!

--
- Zilla Cary, NC (Remove XSPAM)

John Everett

On Fri, 09 Jul 2004 11:50:07 GMT, "Peter Cole"
<peter_cole_no_spam_at_all@comcast.net> wrote:

>"Nick Caratzas" <caratzas@aol.com> wrote
>> "Peter Cole"
>> <peter_cole_no_spam_at_all@comcast.net> wrote
>> >
>> > If you buy an appropriately sized bolt & some washers
>> > (to space the
>length),
>> > you can just bolt the tool to the spindle. I found that
>> > I had to use a
>pipe
>> > wrench to remove my last BB, no problem with slipping
>> > (Shimano UN style).
>>
>> There's always the old quick-release-skewer-and-adjustable-
>> wrench trick:
>>
>> http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcartdg.shtml
>
>Works for hollow spindles, unfortunately UN53 is solid, as
>are all the BB's on my dozen or so family bikes...

I think Nick is suggesting a bolt with the same threads as
the crank bolt (can't just now recall offhand what that is),
only longer. Use that to secure the BB tool in the splines.

BTW, that's a method I use to hold loose bearing balls in
place on the fixed side of a BB while I'm dropping balls
into the adjustable side. I have a short tube (about an inch
or so) sawn off an old handlebar, and just use a crank bolt
and large washer to hold things in place.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3