How to Remove a SRAM link

Tom Kunich

"Booker Bense" <bbense@slac.stanford.edu> wrote in message
news:g3rjrt$vlp$1@news.stanford.edu...
> In article <485f1a96$0$17197$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>,
> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote:
>>These links work ideally in a clean demonstration but once used, the
>>clearance between side plate and inner link becomes contaminated with
>>road grit so that the link cannot be squeezed together enough for its
>>pin ends to disengage their retention recesses. These links must be
>>pressed together laterally for separation.
>>
>>For this reason pliers are must be used (lengthwise) diagonally
>>pressing against the side plates at the fixed ends of their pins to
>>both presses the plates against the inner links and to push in the
>>direction of disengagement. This means that otherwise chain
>>separation on-the-road is impractical.
>>
>>Ideally the link needs a thorough solvent cleaning to make it once
>>more separate like a new link. True grit is where it's at!
>
> You are completely wrong on this one. There is a trick, once
> learned every 9spd SRAM link will easily come apart with just
> your hands. You've convinced yourself that the hard way is the
> only way.
>
> I can't really explain the trick well, but basically get the
> chain loose, make a Z with the link as the slash on the Z
> and apply a "shearing squeeze" to the links. ( Smear the link,
> not squeeze it.)
>
> It took me more than a few tries to get this, but once mastered
> it's worked with every 9sp SRAM chain I've used over the last
> 6 years.

Just so it's plain - today while climbing the local hill road I do most
Tuesdays, my chain popped apart at the link. I found the missing end and it
was VERY hard to get the link to go together since it was somewhat gritty.
Finally I got it together and we completed the ride.

After getting it home I attempted to pull and clean the chain. The master
link would NOT come apart until I used a pair of pliers on it. The pliers
pushed in and together at the same time since I had it zigged across the
link.

I have built racing motors for cars and motorcycles. I was a professional
AMA mechanic and we won races with some national numbers riding our
motorcycles. I met and talked with a lot of really important mechanics such
as Tom Sifton, Jack London (the stock car/midget mechanic/sponsor not the
author) and people of their stature.

I have whittled my collection of bikes down from 16 to about 10 right now. I
build all of my own bikes save twice when I felt really flush. I've been a
mechanic since early childhood. I'm now in my 60's.

Listening to people like you making the claim that somehow I don't know what
I'm doing and you can tell me what to do from a distance is pretty funny.

jim beam

Booker Bense wrote:
> In article <485f1a96$0$17197$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>,
> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote:
>> These links work ideally in a clean demonstration but once used, the
>> clearance between side plate and inner link becomes contaminated with
>> road grit so that the link cannot be squeezed together enough for its
>> pin ends to disengage their retention recesses. These links must be
>> pressed together laterally for separation.
>>
>> For this reason pliers are must be used (lengthwise) diagonally
>> pressing against the side plates at the fixed ends of their pins to
>> both presses the plates against the inner links and to push in the
>> direction of disengagement. This means that otherwise chain
>> separation on-the-road is impractical.
>>
>> Ideally the link needs a thorough solvent cleaning to make it once
>> more separate like a new link. True grit is where it's at!
>>
>> Jobst Brandt
>
>
> You are completely wrong on this one. There is a trick, once
> learned every 9spd SRAM link will easily come apart with just
> your hands. You've convinced yourself that the hard way is the
> only way.
>
> I can't really explain the trick well, but basically get the
> chain loose, make a Z with the link as the slash on the Z
> and apply a "shearing squeeze" to the links. ( Smear the link,
> not squeeze it.)
>
> It took me more than a few tries to get this, but once mastered
> it's worked with every 9sp SRAM chain I've used over the last
> 6 years.
>

jeepers dude, this is a piss-fest - attempted enlightenment of the
heathen is not welcome. stand in like to complain and swear it's
impossible like all the rest can'tcha?

Kenny

I've been using the SRAM powerlinks for about 7 years. I always remove
the chain for cleaning. I've tried all the removal methods mentioned
here except the one that mentions using WD 40 to remove grit first. In
my personal experience there is a 20% chance that I will not be able
to remove the link by simply squeezing the ends toward each other.
Just last week I wanted to replace my old chain but couldn't get the
powerlink to disengage. I struggled with it for about 10 minutes
before I finally surrendered and reached for the chain tool. In
retrospect I'd say the powerlink was packed with grit as I hadn't
cleaned the chain in about a year. But anyway, most of the time the
powerlink works as advertised but if I were going to rely on it coming
apart easily by hand in the field... I don't know If I'd leave home
without the trusty chain tool.