How to Remove a SRAM link

jim beam

jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
> These links work ideally in a clean demonstration but once used, the
> clearance between side plate and inner link becomes contaminated with
> road grit so that the link cannot be squeezed together enough for its
> pin ends to disengage their retention recesses. These links must be
> pressed together laterally for separation.
>
> For this reason pliers are must be used

then you're not doing it right jobst. hardly surprising given your
known powers of observation. or the lack thereof. extraordinary lack
of ability to read other "no tool how-to" posts in this thread too.



> (lengthwise) diagonally
> pressing against the side plates at the fixed ends of their pins to
> both presses the plates against the inner links and to push in the
> direction of disengagement. This means that otherwise chain
> separation on-the-road is impractical.
>
> Ideally the link needs a thorough solvent cleaning to make it once
> more separate like a new link. True grit is where it's at!
>
> Jobst Brandt

Mark

Bill Sornson wrote:
> Davy wrote:
>> My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
>> anyone advise on how to remove the link?
>> Davy
>
> Assume you mean open and not remove?
>
> Anyway, just push the two ends together. Look closely to see which way the
> pins are oriented, as it usually requires a little squeeze along with the
> push. Massage it a bit, and...ta da.
>
> I've never, ever needed pliers to disconnect a QL, even when it's nastily
> encrusted with crud.

I've had mostly the same experience (hands only), but I've had trouble
with /a few/ grit-encrusted links. Spray with WD-40 and wiggle the link
a bit to flush and shake the grit out, so that the side plates can then
be pushed closer together. On some links it /does/ make a difference.

Mark J.

RS

In article <Xns9AC5E27C4DD9Bmeremoveallthistextc@216.196.109.145>,
me@removeallthistextchobham.org.uk says...
>
>
>My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
>anyone advise on how to remove the link?
>Davy
Sometimes needed a light squeeze with needle nose pliers on 8 and 9 speed.
Good to know I"m not the only one with some dificulty with these.

Ben C

On 2008-06-22, Tom Kunich <cyclintom@yahoo> wrote:
> "Davy" <me@removeallthistextchobham.org.uk> wrote in message
> news:Xns9AC5E27C4DD9Bmeremoveallthistextc@216.196.109.145...
>> My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
>> anyone advise on how to remove the link?
>
> It's a pain in the butt Davey. You have to keep teasing it and eventually it
> will open up. I turn the chain so that the master link is horizontal and the
> two end links are vertical falling away. I then use a pair of plain
> combination pliers over the edges of the link to push each side in the
> correct direction to open the link. Eventually it opens this way but until
> it opens you wonder if it ever will.

There's a knack to it. I used to find them very hard to undo and reached
for the pliers on a couple of occasions, but now I can just pop them off
by hand in seconds.

The trick is to squeeze and slide at the same time, holding the link in
the middle. Wipe some of the oil off first because you do need a little
bit of grip.

If you just try to pull the rollers apart without pinching the two
sideplates together (squeezing) you need much more force and who knows
might damage the link. I don't like the idea of putting little nicks
into with the pliers.

siodad@aol.com

> It helps if you take the tension of the chain, by eg. making a small
> "U" on the chain where the link sits.

We are tool making animals. Never miss the chance.

I took a six inch length of coat hanger wire and bent slight hooks at
both ends. When I want to remove chain, I position the connecting
link roughly in the middle of the bottom run. From the top of the
chain I set one of the hooks into a link about three inches to one
side of the connecting link. Then drawing in some slack, I set the
other hook an equal distance on the other side of the connecting
link. This creates and holds the "U" which makes it much easier to
work on the connecting link. It also has the benefit of holding the
chain in place even after the link has been removed. No slick chain
slipping through your fingers running off of the chainrings or
cassette as you try not to drop the link halves. It's perhaps even
more useful holding the chain in position when installing the link.

It took all of one minute to fabricate the tool and it takes five
seconds to use it. The problem is, it doesn't look very
professional. I wonder if I can convince Park to produce a stainless
version with a rubberized grip?

Pat Clancy

Peter Cole

Davy wrote:
> My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
> anyone advise on how to remove the link?
> Davy

You have to simultaneously squeeze the side plates together while
squeezing the pins together. You can do it by hand, by hand with one
pair of pliers, or with two pairs of pliers, depending on how difficult
it is to unsnap. I've had some that were very easy and some that were
nearly impossible. Cleaning the link often helps. One trick is to bend a
stout wire into a "V" and use it to squeeze the pins together while
pressing the side plates with pliers.

Peter Cole

siodad@aol.com wrote:
>> It helps if you take the tension of the chain, by eg. making a small
>> "U" on the chain where the link sits.
>
> We are tool making animals. Never miss the chance.
>
> I took a six inch length of coat hanger wire and bent slight hooks at
> both ends. When I want to remove chain, I position the connecting
> link roughly in the middle of the bottom run. From the top of the
> chain I set one of the hooks into a link about three inches to one
> side of the connecting link. Then drawing in some slack, I set the
> other hook an equal distance on the other side of the connecting
> link. This creates and holds the "U" which makes it much easier to
> work on the connecting link. It also has the benefit of holding the
> chain in place even after the link has been removed. No slick chain
> slipping through your fingers running off of the chainrings or
> cassette as you try not to drop the link halves. It's perhaps even
> more useful holding the chain in position when installing the link.
>
> It took all of one minute to fabricate the tool and it takes five
> seconds to use it. The problem is, it doesn't look very
> professional. I wonder if I can convince Park to produce a stainless
> version with a rubberized grip?
>
> Pat Clancy

I've seen these in some multi-tool kits. I used to use a paper clip, now
I just derail the chain.

Tom Kunich

"Ben C" <spamspam@spam.eggs> wrote in message
news:slrng5uj16.5mv.spamspam@bowser.marioworld...
> On 2008-06-22, Tom Kunich <cyclintom@yahoo> wrote:
>> It's a pain in the butt Davey. You have to keep teasing it and eventually
>> it
>> will open up. I turn the chain so that the master link is horizontal and
>> the
>> two end links are vertical falling away. I then use a pair of plain
>> combination pliers over the edges of the link to push each side in the
>> correct direction to open the link. Eventually it opens this way but
>> until
>> it opens you wonder if it ever will.
>
> There's a knack to it. I used to find them very hard to undo and reached
> for the pliers on a couple of occasions, but now I can just pop them off
> by hand in seconds.

I can as well AFTER I've opened them a couple of times. But that also means
that it is getting loose. And for the record I have had one come undone
while riding. I sometimes carry a spare masterlink in case now.

jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org

Let me add to this description...

> These links work ideally in a clean demonstration but once used, the
> clearance between side plate and inner link becomes contaminated
> with road grit so that the link cannot be squeezed together enough
> for its pin ends to disengage their retention recesses. These links
> must be pressed together laterally for separation.

> For this reason pliers are must be used (lengthwise) diagonally
> pressing against the side plates at the fixed ends of their pins to
> both presses the plates against the inner links and to push in the
> direction of disengagement. This means that otherwise chain
> separation on-the-road is impractical.

> Ideally the link needs a thorough solvent cleaning to make it once
> more separate like a new link. True grit is where it's at!

I take the chain off the chainring so it is entirely slack while
performing these operations. As I mentioned, the side plates must be
pushed together taking up lateral operating clearance of the chain for
the link pins to disengage from their retention recesses. If that
operating clearance is contaminated, it doesn't allow enough movement
to release the pins from retention.

To put this into perspective, I reported a failure to remain closed
for these links here on wreck.bike while back.

I put on a new chain using the manually separable link and rode to
work without giving my worn sprockets any attention. While climbing a
short rise in a 13t sprocket, the chain skipped exactly at the moment
the master link was approaching engagement.

Inertial compression when the chain re-engaged the sprocket,
disengaged the master link, allowing the chain fall to the road. I
walked back to the place where this occurred, found the link halves
and re-installed the chain and continued riding. I rode that chain
for many miles after that and installed new 13t & 15t sprockets to
prevent chain skip.

I'm sure archivists can find that report.

Jobst Brandt

Peter Cole

Tosspot wrote:
> Davy wrote:
>> My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can anyone advise on
>> how to remove the link?
>
> There are those that can, and those that can't.
>
> Those that can: Squeeze the plates and push the ends together.
>
> Those that can't: Squeeze the plates and push the ends together, chain
> slips and covers user in muck

There's been a wide variation, in my experience, of how difficult a
particular quick link may be to open. You might assume it's a matter of
mechanical aptitude, but perhaps you just haven't encountered a tough
one. I've had one or two that wouldn't even close when brand new and clean.

Tosspot

Peter Cole wrote:
> Tosspot wrote:
>> Davy wrote:
>>> My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can anyone advise on
>>> how to remove the link?
>>
>> There are those that can, and those that can't.
>>
>> Those that can: Squeeze the plates and push the ends together.
>>
>> Those that can't: Squeeze the plates and push the ends together, chain
>> slips and covers user in muck
>
> There's been a wide variation, in my experience, of how difficult a
> particular quick link may be to open. You might assume it's a matter of
> mechanical aptitude, but perhaps you just haven't encountered a tough
> one. I've had one or two that wouldn't even close when brand new and clean.

And there was me thinking they were the work of Satan. I must say, when
they come apart they are brilliant, but I've now gone down the route of
a nice chain tool, which fixes most things, and a powerlink in the
saddle bag for emergencies.

Chalo

jim beam wrote:
>
> Davy wrote:
> >
> > My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
> > anyone advise on how to remove the link?
>
> squeeze the plates together, then push the two rivets as if to compress
> the chain lengthwise.

Add a little sticky grit and that doesn't do the trick. I use the
method Tom Kunich describes, though I worked it out for myself by
trial and error.

Chalo

Gary Young

On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 05:03:16 -0700, siodad wrote:

>> It helps if you take the tension of the chain, by eg. making a small
>> "U" on the chain where the link sits.
>
> We are tool making animals. Never miss the chance.
>
> I took a six inch length of coat hanger wire and bent slight hooks at
> both ends. When I want to remove chain, I position the connecting link
> roughly in the middle of the bottom run. From the top of the chain I
> set one of the hooks into a link about three inches to one side of the
> connecting link. Then drawing in some slack, I set the other hook an
> equal distance on the other side of the connecting link. This creates
> and holds the "U" which makes it much easier to work on the connecting
> link. It also has the benefit of holding the chain in place even after
> the link has been removed. No slick chain slipping through your fingers
> running off of the chainrings or cassette as you try not to drop the
> link halves. It's perhaps even more useful holding the chain in
> position when installing the link.
>
> It took all of one minute to fabricate the tool and it takes five
> seconds to use it. The problem is, it doesn't look very professional.
> I wonder if I can convince Park to produce a stainless version with a
> rubberized grip?
>
> Pat Clancy

Not stainless, and the donut that holds the spring is plastic, not
rubber, but this tool is cheap and effective:

<http://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?
id=275094845951&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Chain&tc=Chain-
Compressor&item_id=YC-207>

or

http://tinyurl.com/3t3j3j

Tom Kunich

"Chalo" <chalo.colina@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:daf5e1d3-361b-46f1-8f6a-955de0d9cdb3@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> jim beam wrote:
>> Davy wrote:
>> > My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
>> > anyone advise on how to remove the link?
>>
>> squeeze the plates together, then push the two rivets as if to compress
>> the chain lengthwise.
>
> Add a little sticky grit and that doesn't do the trick. I use the
> method Tom Kunich describes, though I worked it out for myself by
> trial and error.

And that's the way I worked it out as well. I wonder about the pretense that
these links don't have a great deal of variation between them. Some fit
right together while others require you to pedal them pretty hard before
they snap into proper alignment. Same for coming apart.