Lacing suggestions

daveornee

Precision adjusted cup & cone bearings like those found on Shimano and pre 2007 Campy along with a good steel QR properly adjusted will also help keep the wheel in better alignmentunder side loads. The frame and fork also have contributions. Tension balance in the spokes along with precision truing will give the the best possible chance of minimizing brake pad rubbing. The large center sections in current hubs from Shimano and Campagnolo also make a small but measurable contribution to lateral stiffness.
I don't know how you have your pads adjusted, but I ride with some very heavy riders who adjust pads far from the rim to avoid contact. They don't have them so far out the bottoming levers when braking happens though.

bjw@mambo.ucolick.org

On May 9, 1:44*pm, "joseph.santanie...@gmail.com"
<joseph.santanie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 9, 10:19*pm, "mike.a.sch...@gmail.com"
>
> <mike.a.sch...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/hikingbikinglacing.htm
> > Suggested lacing pattern to keep shoeslaces away from the chain.
>
> Getting a shoelace tangled in the pedal spindle of a fixed gear bike
> is no fun!
>
> I think I'll try that pattern.

Obviously, what we need now is for some manufacturer
to bring out off-center-drilled shoes.

Ben

joseph.santaniello@gmail.com

On May 11, 7:02*am, "b...@mambo.ucolick.org" <b...@mambo.ucolick.org>
wrote:
> On May 9, 1:44*pm, "joseph.santanie...@gmail.com"
>
> <joseph.santanie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On May 9, 10:19*pm, "mike.a.sch...@gmail.com"
>
> > <mike.a.sch...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/hikingbikinglacing.htm
> > > Suggested lacing pattern to keep shoeslaces away from the chain.
>
> > Getting a shoelace tangled in the pedal spindle of a fixed gear bike
> > is no fun!
>
> > I think I'll try that pattern.
>
> Obviously, what we need now is for some manufacturer
> to bring out off-center-drilled shoes.
>
> Ben

I've seen soccer shoes like that. I guess it gives a nice flat area on
the top.

Joseph

joseph.santaniello@gmail.com

On May 11, 1:58*am, daveornee <daveornee.397...@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com> wrote:
> joseph.santanie...@gmail.com Wrote:
>
> > On May 10, 8:17*pm, daveornee <daveornee.397...@no-
> > mx.forums.cyclingforums.com> wrote:
> > > joseph.santanie...@gmail.com Wrote:
>
> > > > On May 10, 7:29*pm, Ron Ruff <rruffrr...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > > On May 10, 9:28*am, "joseph.santanie...@gmail.com"
>
> > > > > <joseph.santanie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > > > But what about my light wheels that buckle? Should I rebuild
> > those
> > > > 2x
> > > > > > both sides?
>
> > > > > Are they laced heads-in now on the NDS? If not, try that. If
> > they
> > > > are
> > > > > heads-in, then heavier spokes are the only thing that will
> > help...
> > > > but
> > > > > I'd probably just sell them to a lighter rider before trying
> > that.
>
> > > > All my lighter buddies are afraid of tubulars, and even more vain
> > than
> > > > me! The old-school Mavic OR10 rims just look funny to them. Not
> > too
> > > > mention the insanley high spoke count! They do however do a double
> > > > take when I hand them a wheel to feel it's (lack of) weight. And
> > then
> > > > when they find out how much they cost (1/2 their heavier
> > pre-builts)
> > > > they give me a blank stare.
>
> > > > They are heads out now. I'll flip them. If I go with beefier
> > spokes,
> > > > should I replace them all, or just NDS?
>
> > > > Joseph
>
> > > Are you set on retaining those rims in combination with the narrow
> > > spaced hubs?
> > > You can add ~20% stiffness with beefier spokes and heads in
> > orientation
> > > of spokes, but at your weight and power I wonder if it is worth the
> > > effort and costs. * Light weight wheels are fun to show off, but
> > they
> > > don't make much difference to the overall weight of rider + bicycle
> > ...
> > > especially as the rider weight contribution is over 80%.
> > > I would move ahead with the wheels you are working on now so you can
> > > see what they ride like.
> > > Ron Ruff's idea of selling your light weight rider who thinks tubies
> > > are better (or at least worth it). * *There are a small percentage
> > of
> > > riders who have a positive bias for tubulars... and some like the
> > old
> > > style Mavic OR rims too.
>
> > > --
> > > daveornee
>
> > I'm not set on keeping them, but nobody I know is interested in
> > buying, even for cheap. Fixing them is a low priority. I'll try
> > flipping the spokes first (free) and maybe some heavier spokes if I
> > happen across any suitable. If these new aero wheels (Gigantex/Dura
> > Ace) are nice, I may buy some more of those rims and use the AC hubs
> > and those I could sell. Then I'll keep the OR10's for some future
> > unknown project.
>
> > Joseph
>
> Precision adjusted cup & cone bearings like those found on Shimano and
> pre 2007 Campy along with a good steel QR properly adjusted will also
> help keep the wheel in better alignmentunder side loads. *The frame and
> fork also have contributions. *Tension balance in the spokes along with
> precision truing will give the the best possible chance of minimizing
> brake pad rubbing. *The large center sections in current hubs from
> Shimano and Campagnolo also make a small but measurable contribution to
> lateral stiffness.
> I don't know how you have your pads adjusted, but I ride with some very
> heavy riders who adjust pads far from the rim to avoid contact. *They
> don't have them so far out the bottoming levers when braking happens
> though.
>
> --
> daveornee

My Ultegra/DT-Competition/Deep-V 28/32 wheels do not flex enough to
rub the pads. I have the brakes adjusted to contact at about half
lever travel. That way they don't bottom out, and I have good leverage
and wear room. When I fit the OR10's I need to open the calipers a
bit.

Joseph