Harris Cyclery wheelbuilding

jim

Hi all, wondering if anyone out there has had experience with their
custom wheels, good or bad?

thanks

Long Live Sheldon!

landotter

On May 6, 7:22 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all, wondering if anyone out there has had experience with their
> custom wheels, good or bad?

If they're building them as Sheldon recommends and checking tension--
I'd trust them for sure. The prices are extremely fair, $40 labor per
wheel and $1 each per butted spoke. Mind, if you need a very normal
combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get
a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
built.

joseph.santaniello@gmail.com

On May 6, 8:46*pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 6, 7:22 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi all, wondering if anyone out there has had experience with their
> > custom wheels, *good or bad?
>
> If they're building them as Sheldon recommends and checking tension--
> I'd trust them for sure. The prices are extremely fair, $40 labor per
> wheel and $1 each per butted spoke. Mind, if you need a very normal
> combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get
> a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
> all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
> built.

It's even more fun to build them from his instructions!

Joseph

landotter

On May 6, 4:39 pm, "joseph.santanie...@gmail.com"
<joseph.santanie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 6, 8:46 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On May 6, 7:22 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > Hi all, wondering if anyone out there has had experience with their
> > > custom wheels, good or bad?
>
> > If they're building them as Sheldon recommends and checking tension--
> > I'd trust them for sure. The prices are extremely fair, $40 labor per
> > wheel and $1 each per butted spoke. Mind, if you need a very normal
> > combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get
> > a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
> > all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
> > built.
>
> It's even more fun to build them from his instructions!

I don't know if it's fun in the classical sense, but it can be
meditative after you've gotten into it. Tuning a wheelinabox set,
riding them hard and discovering that you've managed to add stability
and value to a commodity is sort of the first little baby step until
you one day arrive at the point where you really need a hub and rim
combo that's unusual enough to require a custom build.

I got to see a gal riding on one of my first sets of custom wheels in
the park this weekend, a trash heap huge orange German woman's bike
with 60cm bars and MA3s on a Sachs Torpedo hub with a premium
assortment of stainless recycled spokes from domestic and European
sponsors (consider the project, people). She'd ridden the snot out of
the thing the last year and had just been to the LBS to put a fine $40
top-of-the-line Electra basket on it, as she reported, "it had been
utterly bullet proof." Good wheels are good wheels, no matter what ya
bolt them to. Good wheels can make orange trash heap bikes pretty fun
bikes, especially if you add gold KMC chains. *bling*

jim

On May 7, 8:30*am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 6, 4:39 pm, "joseph.santanie...@gmail.com"
>
>
>
>
>
> <joseph.santanie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On May 6, 8:46 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > On May 6, 7:22 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > Hi all, wondering if anyone out there has had experience with their
> > > > custom wheels, *good or bad?
>
> > > If they're building them as Sheldon recommends and checking tension--
> > > I'd trust them for sure. The prices are extremely fair, $40 labor per
> > > wheel and $1 each per butted spoke. Mind, if you need a very normal
> > > combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get
> > > a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
> > > all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
> > > built.
>
> > It's even more fun to build them from his instructions!
>
> I don't know if it's fun in the classical sense, but it can be
> meditative after you've gotten into it. Tuning a wheelinabox set,
> riding them hard and discovering that you've managed to add stability
> and value to a commodity is sort of the first little baby step until
> you one day arrive at the point where you really need a hub and rim
> combo that's unusual enough to require a custom build.
>
> I got to see a gal riding on one of my first sets of custom wheels in
> the park this weekend, a trash heap huge orange German woman's bike
> with 60cm bars and MA3s on a Sachs Torpedo hub with a premium
> assortment of stainless recycled spokes from domestic and European
> sponsors (consider the project, people). She'd ridden the snot out of
> the thing the last year and had just been to the LBS to put a fine $40
> top-of-the-line Electra basket on it, as she reported, "it had been
> utterly bullet proof." Good wheels are good wheels, no matter what ya
> bolt them to. Good wheels can make orange trash heap bikes pretty fun
> bikes, especially if you add gold KMC chains. *bling*- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Yeah, my current rear wheel is a 36hole Deore hub on a 700C CR-18.
I'm looking for something similar and none of the nashbar/performance/
jenson offer those sorts of wheels. I have 5 years on this wheel, and
the side of the rim is looking kind of grim after all the braking...I
guess Performance has a decent 32 hole wheel with the CD coating. I
could practice up on that one...

landotter

On May 7, 8:26 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 7, 8:30 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On May 6, 4:39 pm, "joseph.santanie...@gmail.com"
>
> > <joseph.santanie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > On May 6, 8:46 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > On May 6, 7:22 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > Hi all, wondering if anyone out there has had experience with their
> > > > > custom wheels, good or bad?
>
> > > > If they're building them as Sheldon recommends and checking tension--
> > > > I'd trust them for sure. The prices are extremely fair, $40 labor per
> > > > wheel and $1 each per butted spoke. Mind, if you need a very normal
> > > > combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get
> > > > a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
> > > > all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
> > > > built.
>
> > > It's even more fun to build them from his instructions!
>
> > I don't know if it's fun in the classical sense, but it can be
> > meditative after you've gotten into it. Tuning a wheelinabox set,
> > riding them hard and discovering that you've managed to add stability
> > and value to a commodity is sort of the first little baby step until
> > you one day arrive at the point where you really need a hub and rim
> > combo that's unusual enough to require a custom build.
>
> > I got to see a gal riding on one of my first sets of custom wheels in
> > the park this weekend, a trash heap huge orange German woman's bike
> > with 60cm bars and MA3s on a Sachs Torpedo hub with a premium
> > assortment of stainless recycled spokes from domestic and European
> > sponsors (consider the project, people). She'd ridden the snot out of
> > the thing the last year and had just been to the LBS to put a fine $40
> > top-of-the-line Electra basket on it, as she reported, "it had been
> > utterly bullet proof." Good wheels are good wheels, no matter what ya
> > bolt them to. Good wheels can make orange trash heap bikes pretty fun
> > bikes, especially if you add gold KMC chains. *bling*- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Yeah, my current rear wheel is a 36hole Deore hub on a 700C CR-18.
> I'm looking for something similar and none of the nashbar/performance/
> jenson offer those sorts of wheels. I have 5 years on this wheel, and
> the side of the rim is looking kind of grim after all the braking...I
> guess Performance has a decent 32 hole wheel with the CD coating. I
> could practice up on that one...

Tape a new rim on top of the old one. Transfer the spokes one by one
with an electric driver from the back, snug and true with a spoke
wrench. Tip: don't tighten the spokes too much first thing with the
electric screwdriver first, leave a couple threads showing.

$30 for a new rim, can't beat that.

jim

On May 7, 9:45*am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 7, 8:26 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On May 7, 8:30 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > On May 6, 4:39 pm, "joseph.santanie...@gmail.com"
>
> > > <joseph.santanie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > On May 6, 8:46 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > On May 6, 7:22 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > > Hi all, wondering if anyone out there has had experience with their
> > > > > > custom wheels, *good or bad?
>
> > > > > If they're building them as Sheldon recommends and checking tension--
> > > > > I'd trust them for sure. The prices are extremely fair, $40 labor per
> > > > > wheel and $1 each per butted spoke. Mind, if you need a very normal
> > > > > combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to justget
> > > > > a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
> > > > > all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
> > > > > built.
>
> > > > It's even more fun to build them from his instructions!
>
> > > I don't know if it's fun in the classical sense, but it can be
> > > meditative after you've gotten into it. Tuning a wheelinabox set,
> > > riding them hard and discovering that you've managed to add stability
> > > and value to a commodity is sort of the first little baby step until
> > > you one day arrive at the point where you really need a hub and rim
> > > combo that's unusual enough to require a custom build.
>
> > > I got to see a gal riding on one of my first sets of custom wheels in
> > > the park this weekend, a trash heap huge orange German woman's bike
> > > with 60cm bars and MA3s on a Sachs Torpedo hub with a premium
> > > assortment of stainless recycled spokes from domestic and European
> > > sponsors (consider the project, people). She'd ridden the snot out of
> > > the thing the last year and had just been to the LBS to put a fine $40
> > > top-of-the-line Electra basket on it, as she reported, "it had been
> > > utterly bullet proof." Good wheels are good wheels, no matter what ya
> > > bolt them to. Good wheels can make orange trash heap bikes pretty fun
> > > bikes, especially if you add gold KMC chains. *bling*- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Yeah, my current rear wheel is a 36hole Deore hub on a *700C CR-18.
> > I'm looking for something similar and none of the nashbar/performance/
> > jenson offer those sorts of wheels. I have 5 years on this wheel, and
> > the side of the rim is looking kind of grim after all the braking...I
> > guess Performance has a decent 32 hole wheel with the CD coating. I
> > could practice up on that one...
>
> Tape a new rim on top of the old one. Transfer the spokes one by one
> with an electric driver from the back, snug and true with a spoke
> wrench. Tip: don't tighten the spokes too much first thing with the
> electric screwdriver first, leave a couple threads showing.
>
> $30 for a new rim, can't beat that.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Well, I have repacked the hub a couple times and discovered that the
races are scored/pitted. So, it's time to start over I think. It still
rolls fine, just not new-like.

landotter

On May 7, 11:24 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 7, 9:45 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On May 7, 8:26 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > On May 7, 8:30 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > On May 6, 4:39 pm, "joseph.santanie...@gmail.com"
>
> > > > <joseph.santanie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > > On May 6, 8:46 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > > On May 6, 7:22 am, jim <skijor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > > > Hi all, wondering if anyone out there has had experience with their
> > > > > > > custom wheels, good or bad?
>
> > > > > > If they're building them as Sheldon recommends and checking tension--
> > > > > > I'd trust them for sure. The prices are extremely fair, $40 labor per
> > > > > > wheel and $1 each per butted spoke. Mind, if you need a very normal
> > > > > > combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get
> > > > > > a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
> > > > > > all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
> > > > > > built.
>
> > > > > It's even more fun to build them from his instructions!
>
> > > > I don't know if it's fun in the classical sense, but it can be
> > > > meditative after you've gotten into it. Tuning a wheelinabox set,
> > > > riding them hard and discovering that you've managed to add stability
> > > > and value to a commodity is sort of the first little baby step until
> > > > you one day arrive at the point where you really need a hub and rim
> > > > combo that's unusual enough to require a custom build.
>
> > > > I got to see a gal riding on one of my first sets of custom wheels in
> > > > the park this weekend, a trash heap huge orange German woman's bike
> > > > with 60cm bars and MA3s on a Sachs Torpedo hub with a premium
> > > > assortment of stainless recycled spokes from domestic and European
> > > > sponsors (consider the project, people). She'd ridden the snot out of
> > > > the thing the last year and had just been to the LBS to put a fine $40
> > > > top-of-the-line Electra basket on it, as she reported, "it had been
> > > > utterly bullet proof." Good wheels are good wheels, no matter what ya
> > > > bolt them to. Good wheels can make orange trash heap bikes pretty fun
> > > > bikes, especially if you add gold KMC chains. *bling*- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > Yeah, my current rear wheel is a 36hole Deore hub on a 700C CR-18.
> > > I'm looking for something similar and none of the nashbar/performance/
> > > jenson offer those sorts of wheels. I have 5 years on this wheel, and
> > > the side of the rim is looking kind of grim after all the braking...I
> > > guess Performance has a decent 32 hole wheel with the CD coating. I
> > > could practice up on that one...
>
> > Tape a new rim on top of the old one. Transfer the spokes one by one
> > with an electric driver from the back, snug and true with a spoke
> > wrench. Tip: don't tighten the spokes too much first thing with the
> > electric screwdriver first, leave a couple threads showing.
>
> > $30 for a new rim, can't beat that.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well, I have repacked the hub a couple times and discovered that the
> races are scored/pitted. So, it's time to start over I think. It still
> rolls fine, just not new-like.

How are the cups? Cones are cheap, $3 each for Deores. If the scoring
is an even wear line, then fresh bearings, cups, and rims, and you're
good to go for under $40. Alternately, you can get a Deore/Sun wheel
from QBP for $75, but it will be 32 spoke.

Clive George

"landotter" <landotter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:431ec02f-4057-425d-b087-c76ae3d74d63@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

> How are the cups? Cones are cheap, $3 each for Deores. If the scoring
> is an even wear line, then fresh bearings, cups, and rims, and you're
> good to go for under $40.

Fresh cups? Or do you mean cones?

cheers,
clive

landotter

On May 7, 11:57 am, "Clive George" <cl...@xxxx-x.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
> "landotter" <landot...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:431ec02f-4057-425d-b087-c76ae3d74d63@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
> > How are the cups? Cones are cheap, $3 each for Deores. If the scoring
> > is an even wear line, then fresh bearings, cups, and rims, and you're
> > good to go for under $40.
>
> Fresh cups? Or do you mean cones?

cones! Cups usually just get a little wear score that ya can live with
as long as the cones and balls are running in good fresh grease.

Camilo

On May 6, 10:46 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:...
> if you need a very normal
> combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get
> a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
> all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
> built.

Can you give a pointer to SB's instructions for tuning a new generic
wheel? (aka wheelinabox). I looked on his site and only saw very
lengthy and detailed wheelbuilding instructions. I have no idea which
portion to concentrate on. I'm curious because I recently purchased
that type of wheel and am interested in giving it a once-over before
riding. I need "idiot's guide" type stuff that assumes no knowledge
(although I understand hubs, rims, spokes, spoke wrenches, etc - I've
never actually tuned a wheel)

Thanks.

landotter

On May 7, 12:07 pm, Camilo <campasc...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On May 6, 10:46 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:...
>
> > if you need a very normal
> > combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get
> > a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
> > all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
> > built.
>
> Can you give a pointer to SB's instructions for tuning a new generic
> wheel? (aka wheelinabox). I looked on his site and only saw very
> lengthy and detailed wheelbuilding instructions. I have no idea which
> portion to concentrate on. I'm curious because I recently purchased
> that type of wheel and am interested in giving it a once-over before
> riding. I need "idiot's guide" type stuff that assumes no knowledge
> (although I understand hubs, rims, spokes, spoke wrenches, etc - I've
> never actually tuned a wheel)

Basically you just want to make sure the relative spoke tension is
fairly even. If you're musical, you can do this by ear by plucking, or
see if someone can lend you a spoke wrench. It doesn't have to be
perfect, just no wild disparities. Most wheels will come pretty close
enough. Most wheelsinabox will need to be brought up to tension 1/4 to
1/2+ turn to get to good stable tension, as wheel building machines
can't build at such tensions. Again, in a perfect world, you'd use a
tensionometer and research the suggested tension for your rim, but in
the real world, basic machine built wheels can usually take a 1/2
turn. No warranty from yours truly if you crack a rim, so start with
1/4 turn and do one rotation. Lube your nipples if you want to avoid
spoke wind up. Then destress. You can search this group for all of the
various methods. I usually just seat the spoke heads by pushing the
wheel axle (remove skewer first) into a block of scrap wood by leaning
on the rim with my body weight and working my way around the rim
carefully, trying to not actually taco the wheel. You can see the
spoke head pull into the hub flange. Then fine true it. Good to go.

A Muzi

> landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:...
>> if you need a very normal
>> combination of rim/spoke/hub--it's more economical and fun to just get
>> a wheelinabox and tune them using Sheldon Brown's instructions--takes
>> all of fifteen minutes, and they'll be as durable as something hand
>> built.

Camilo wrote:
> Can you give a pointer to SB's instructions for tuning a new generic
> wheel? (aka wheelinabox). I looked on his site and only saw very
> lengthy and detailed wheelbuilding instructions. I have no idea which
> portion to concentrate on. I'm curious because I recently purchased
> that type of wheel and am interested in giving it a once-over before
> riding. I need "idiot's guide" type stuff that assumes no knowledge
> (although I understand hubs, rims, spokes, spoke wrenches, etc - I've
> never actually tuned a wheel)

Once the spokes are in place, which we assume yours are, skip past the
'getting spokes in the hub and connected to the rim' part and continue
reading.

As noted, continually observe:
overall tension
roundness
lateral variance
and keep the rim centered over the locknuts.

Dropping the overall tension to lubricate the nipple thread and the
surface between rim and nipple can actually save time over struggling
with a recalcitrant 'box' wheel.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

daveornee

http://www.bbinstitute.com/DX%20Demo%20Chap%2017.pdf

Stabilizing the True
Precision Tension Balance
are the sections to pay particular note. + the advice given by Muzi in another response