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#1 |
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Guest
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I'm still keeping with my idea that I'm going to try to ride wherever
I can... mostly because I want to stay in better shape but also because I simply enjoy riding. To that end, as some of you know, I've purchased myself a used Cannondale CX bike, did some minor repairs to get it back on the road (new brakes and chain,) got myself a frame pump, patch kit, multitool, spare tube, headlight (OK, so far it's just the Lowe's thing and a twofish block, and my DealExtreme order for the new lenses hasn't come yet, but it'll do for a start) etc. Problem is, I still can't really carry anything on it unless I carry a backpack, and I can't leave it anywhere. So it's fine if I just want to go for a ride to go for a ride, but that wasn't the entire purpose of this exercise. Should I just get a better backpack, or is the added weight of a rack worth it? Any specific recommendations for any products? My frame does appear to have mounts for a rack and fenders. I'm thinking that the rack would be more comfortable simply because then I wouldn't have this heavy thing hanging off of me while I'm all sweaty and trying to cool off... What kind of lock should I get? I'm assuming it should be a cable style lock as both wheels have QRs. What's a good compromise between security and light weight? thanks, nate |
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#2 |
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On May 5, 3:33 pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Should I just get a better backpack, or is the added weight of a rack > worth it? Any specific recommendations for any products? My frame > does appear to have mounts for a rack and fenders. I'm thinking that > the rack would be more comfortable simply because then I wouldn't have > this heavy thing hanging off of me while I'm all sweaty and trying to > cool off... > A basic rack weighs naught. You should be able to find one on sale for $20. Grab some basic Axiom Appalachian swing over panniers for $30ish and you have a compact setup for cheap to let you taste what bags are like. Everybody needs some simple cheap bags for errands. They got 'em over at bikeman.com. Alternately get some small front panniers and run them on the rear. If you ever tour, you can get some big rear ones and run the fronts in their intended place. There are other options: trunk bags, single panniers, etc, but Iike the simple set of cheap panniers the best as an every day tool. > What kind of lock should I get? I'm assuming it should be a cable > style lock as both wheels have QRs. What's a good compromise between > security and light weight? http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html Add a cable for the front wheel, or remove it. I like the On-guard mini-U--but depends on the security requirements of your city. |
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#3 |
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On 2008-05-05, N8N <njnagel@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I'm still keeping with my idea that I'm going to try to ride wherever > I can... mostly because I want to stay in better shape but also > because I simply enjoy riding. To that end, as some of you know, I've > purchased myself a used Cannondale CX bike, did some minor repairs to > get it back on the road (new brakes and chain,) got myself a frame > pump, patch kit, multitool, spare tube, headlight (OK, so far it's > just the Lowe's thing and a twofish block, and my DealExtreme order > for the new lenses hasn't come yet, but it'll do for a start) etc. > > Problem is, I still can't really carry anything on it unless I carry a > backpack, and I can't leave it anywhere. So it's fine if I just want > to go for a ride to go for a ride, but that wasn't the entire purpose > of this exercise. > > Should I just get a better backpack, or is the added weight of a rack > worth it? Any specific recommendations for any products? My frame > does appear to have mounts for a rack and fenders. I'm thinking that > the rack would be more comfortable simply because then I wouldn't have > this heavy thing hanging off of me while I'm all sweaty and trying to > cool off... A rack is much better if you need to carry anything and they weigh very little really. > What kind of lock should I get? I'm assuming it should be a cable > style lock as both wheels have QRs. A U-lock and a cable to hook around the front wheel works well. If you're riding to work just leave the lock at work most of the time. They are rather heavy. > What's a good compromise between security and light weight? See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html |
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#4 |
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On May 5, 1:33 pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I'm still keeping with my idea that I'm going to try to ride wherever > I can... mostly because I want to stay in better shape but also > because I simply enjoy riding. You've got that backwards. When you have it the other way around, the keeping with it will follow. > To that end, as some of you know, I've > purchased myself a used Cannondale CX bike, did some minor repairs to > get it back on the road (new brakes and chain,) got myself a frame > pump, patch kit, multitool, spare tube, headlight (OK, so far it's > just the Lowe's thing and a twofish block, and my DealExtreme order > for the new lenses hasn't come yet, but it'll do for a start) etc. > Get a really excellent taillight, too. You do already have a helmet, don't you? (Don't answer that here, though! Just think about it.) > Problem is, I still can't really carry anything on it unless I carry a > backpack, and I can't leave it anywhere. So it's fine if I just want > to go for a ride to go for a ride, but that wasn't the entire purpose > of this exercise. > > Should I just get a better backpack, or is the added weight of a rack > worth it? Any specific recommendations for any products? I just *love* my Pedro's Messenger Bag. And after seeing the slideshow yesterday on "how to wear your messenger bag" at Timbuk2 web site (http://www.timbuk2.com/tb2/cms/popup/howToWear.htm), I adjusted the straps some more, and dog-gone if it didn't ride beautifully and pretty much stay put all the way to work this morning. > > What kind of lock should I get? I'm assuming it should be a cable > style lock as both wheels have QRs. What's a good compromise between > security and light weight? > The best security *and* light weight is to forget the lock and keep the bike with you at all times. I carry a big ol' Kryptonite U-lock in a frame-mounted bracket on my commuter. The lock is heavy, but this bike is already not for weight weenies. Even though I got paid on the 1st I still couldn't buy any new goodies this month :-( But I did finally take the old SP-150 quill pedals off the commuter and put on a nice pair of PD-6500's (old-style SPD ~compatible) that I already had laying around the garage :-) Man, what a difference!! |
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#5 |
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On May 5, 1:33 pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I'm still keeping with my idea that I'm going to try to ride wherever > I can... mostly because I want to stay in better shape but also > because I simply enjoy riding. To that end, as some of you know, I've > purchased myself a used Cannondale CX bike, did some minor repairs to > get it back on the road (new brakes and chain,) got myself a frame > pump, patch kit, multitool, spare tube, headlight (OK, so far it's > just the Lowe's thing and a twofish block, and my DealExtreme order > for the new lenses hasn't come yet, but it'll do for a start) etc. > Do you already have a good workstand? |
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#6 |
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Dan O wrote:
> On May 5, 1:33 pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail.com> wrote: > >>I'm still keeping with my idea that I'm going to try to ride wherever >>I can... mostly because I want to stay in better shape but also >>because I simply enjoy riding. To that end, as some of you know, I've >>purchased myself a used Cannondale CX bike, did some minor repairs to >>get it back on the road (new brakes and chain,) got myself a frame >>pump, patch kit, multitool, spare tube, headlight (OK, so far it's >>just the Lowe's thing and a twofish block, and my DealExtreme order >>for the new lenses hasn't come yet, but it'll do for a start) etc. >> > > > Do you already have a good workstand? > Nope. I'd like one, but I'm trying to knock off all the "excuses not to ride" before I start buying stuff like that. Speaking of which, it's nice out. Back in an hour or so. ![]() nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
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#7 |
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http://www.rei.com/product/730480 CUT OFF THE LOOP at the rack's front end and bolt a piece of well painted and dried plywood on the top. Run the ply under the seat and past the rear tire's rearmost. the bike then stand up on the rear rack aft lip: lean bike against wall. Bolt lights to ply, drill holes ijn ply edges for short short cords.... Buy a decent rack: racks snap off at the seat post. The rear rack here has ply sides with lightening holes, shock cord oblongs...carries 75 pounds no problem. The backpack, a mid range daypack, I use a mid size Kelty is so light when half loaded it's unnoticeable. great for hanging lights. A tray/platform front rack balances the deal. Carry boxes shockcorded, a garbage bag filled with light stuff... the scene http://www.fullyloadedtouring.com/ |
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#8 |
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N8N wrote:
> I'm still keeping with my idea that I'm going to try to ride wherever > I can... > > nate You didn't mention it, but my recommendation is to get bulletproof tires. My preference is Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires, but there are other ways of doing it--Specialized Armadillo series and various other brands/models of tires, or you could go slime/tubeless, or even airfree (urethane) tires. All of these choices will be rather heavy as tires go--but when you're trying to get somewhere, flats rarely occur at convenient times and they are /never/ fun to deal with. The difference in ride-time of riding heavy tires vs light+fast tires is rarely as great as the difference in time it'll take if you have to stop and fix a flat. Also do note that I still carry a pump and patch kit. Puncture-resistant tires are not guaranteed, just less likely to flat than usual. ~ |
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#9 |
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On May 5, 11:05 pm, DougC <dcim...@norcom2000.com> wrote:
> N8N wrote: > > I'm still keeping with my idea that I'm going to try to ride wherever > > I can... > > > nate > > You didn't mention it, but my recommendation is to get bulletproof tires. > > My preference is Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires, but there are other ways > of doing it--Specialized Armadillo series and various other > brands/models of tires, or you could go slime/tubeless, or even airfree > (urethane) tires. Adding a pound of tire per wheel on a cross bike is misery. Maybe on an upright town bike that doesn't get tossed into corners. Good 350g tires like Paselas, or even the IRC Tandems I retired to my city scoot rarely flat enough to be a bother. > > All of these choices will be rather heavy as tires go--but when you're > trying to get somewhere, flats rarely occur at convenient times and they > are /never/ fun to deal with. The difference in ride-time of riding > heavy tires vs light+fast tires is rarely as great as the difference in > time it'll take if you have to stop and fix a flat. Hey, it's gotta be fun to ride as well--otherwise he might as well have bought an omafiets to ride in his Danskos. > > Also do note that I still carry a pump and patch kit. Puncture-resistant > tires are not guaranteed, just less likely to flat than usual. > ~ I'm all for riding a sensible 300g or so tire in the city, and if that gives trouble, then trade up to a kevlar belted model. No reason to start riding the dead feeling 700g+ tires unless one really doesn't care about a nice ride or wants absolute durability. I don't obsess about my bike weight, but a couple pounds of rotating mass with inflexible sidewalls can really take the zip out of a sporty ride. |
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#10 |
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Guest
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On May 5, 1:33*pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I'm still keeping with my idea that I'm going to try to ride wherever > I can... *mostly because I want to stay in better shape but also > because I simply enjoy riding. *To that end, as some of you know, I've > purchased myself a used Cannondale CX bike, <snip> > > Problem is, I still can't really carry anything on it unless I carry a > backpack, and I can't leave it anywhere. *So it's fine if I just want > to go for a ride to go for a ride, but that wasn't the entire purpose > of this exercise. > > Should I just get a better backpack, or is the added weight of a rack > worth it? <snip> > What kind of lock should I get? *I'm assuming it should be a cable > style lock as both wheels have QRs. *What's a good compromise between > security and light weight? > > thanks, > nate OK, - Get a Rack. They are light enough to warrant the extra few OZs. - Get a really strong lock you can use quickly like one of those Kryptonite type things and keep a strong cable wrapped around the seat post (or in the backpack, but I digress). When it comes time to run in and out a quck lock of the front wheel and the frame to something strurdy gets the job one. When you need a longer time away you can add the cable to the 1st lock to incorporate both rims. I'll add that I like to only have one quick release, if any, on a bike- usually the front with the back hardened against easy theft. Lastly, I'll add that for the last few years I've been using a bike messenger's bag from Timbuk2, (the smallest one I think as it turns out). Works good, keeps the center of gravity low and all that. hth, TBerk |
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#11 |
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N8N wrote:
> Problem is, I still can't really carry anything on it unless I carry a > backpack, and I can't leave it anywhere. So it's fine if I just want > to go for a ride to go for a ride, but that wasn't the entire purpose > of this exercise. > > Should I just get a better backpack, or is the added weight of a rack > worth it? Any specific recommendations for any products? My frame > does appear to have mounts for a rack and fenders. I'm thinking that > the rack would be more comfortable simply because then I wouldn't have > this heavy thing hanging off of me while I'm all sweaty and trying to > cool off... I hate backpacks in the summer -- don't like them much in the winter either. That goes for Camelbaks, too. Rear racks are very useful, but by themselves can't carry much. The 2 options are basically something that hangs from the rack or something that sits on top. For hanging solutions, fold-up "grocery bag" panniers are nice, they basically just clip to the rack and can hold a grocery bag. They're just a fabric covered (sometimes) collapsible wire frame. With a handle, you can carry them like a tote. http://tinyurl.com/6zfl8c For "on top" solutions, you have trunk bags -- rectangular, soft-sided, fabric boxes with zippered compartments. They work OK, but have limited space. On my "errand bike" I use the classic plastic milk crate -- looks low-rent, but hard to beat for practicality. I often put a backpack in it while I ride, it'll handle a surprising amount of cargo. One day I picked up 2 gal coolant, a large Chevy water pump and an assortment of hoses. The disadvantage of the crate (besides looks) is that it's permanently mounted. > What kind of lock should I get? I'm assuming it should be a cable > style lock as both wheels have QRs. What's a good compromise between > security and light weight? Cable locks are easy to defeat with bolt cutters, U-locks with jacks or crowbars. One strategy is to use one of each and hope the thief doesn't have both tools. |
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#12 |
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On Tue, 06 May 2008 11:46:03 GMT, Peter Cole <peter_cole@verizon.net>
wrote: >N8N wrote: >> >> Should I just get a better backpack, or is the added weight of a rack >> worth it? Any specific recommendations for any products? My frame >I hate backpacks in the summer -- don't like them much in the winter I use a Deuter backpack happily in the Australian summer, not so much a better backpack as a cycling backpack. The only hassle is limited access to my jersey pockets. |
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#13 |
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On May 6, 6:46 am, Peter Cole <peter_c...@verizon.net> wrote:
> N8N wrote: > > Problem is, I still can't really carry anything on it unless I carry a > > backpack, and I can't leave it anywhere. So it's fine if I just want > > to go for a ride to go for a ride, but that wasn't the entire purpose > > of this exercise. > > > Should I just get a better backpack, or is the added weight of a rack > > worth it? Any specific recommendations for any products? My frame > > does appear to have mounts for a rack and fenders. I'm thinking that > > the rack would be more comfortable simply because then I wouldn't have > > this heavy thing hanging off of me while I'm all sweaty and trying to > > cool off... > > I hate backpacks in the summer -- don't like them much in the winter > either. That goes for Camelbaks, too. Rear racks are very useful, but by > themselves can't carry much. The 2 options are basically something that > hangs from the rack or something that sits on top. For hanging > solutions, fold-up "grocery bag" panniers are nice, they basically just > clip to the rack and can hold a grocery bag. They're just a fabric > covered (sometimes) collapsible wire frame. With a handle, you can carry > them like a tote.http://tinyurl.com/6zfl8c I find those soft grocery panniers to be pretty lame, as they sag. Good to pick one up on sale as they're light, of course, as they have their times when they can be useful. Cheap panniers are better, IMHO-- Oh, how I wish we could get the really tacky plaid kind like you used to be able to get in northern Europe to color match with your thermos! A step up from the milk crate, whose center of gravity chaps my patooty, is the Wald folding basket. Just one on a side of the rack with some bungee netting, and you can carry a crap load of stuff-- mind, this is also getting into Fred territory. When I commuted in Chicago, I'd often mount up a Wald in the winter with a few zip ties, and cut it off for summer when I used lighter canvas bags. http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Rear-...g/dp/B000BPNK7O Walds are mainly good when you're in the big city and don't want to lug panniers around--even the most desperate crackhead isn't gonna steal some Wald folders. "Yo, trade you these grocery totes for a rock!" |
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#14 |
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In article
<141a5886-9505-4b20-b928-26e04adabe49@z72g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>, N8N <njnagel@hotmail.com> wrote: > Should I just get a better backpack, or is the added weight of a rack > worth it? Any specific recommendations for any products? My frame > does appear to have mounts for a rack and fenders. I'm thinking that > the rack would be more comfortable simply because then I wouldn't have > this heavy thing hanging off of me while I'm all sweaty and trying to > cool off... If you're not being a racer-boy, the added weight of a rack is negligible. It also improves the center of gravity by moving the load way down as compared to carrying it high on your back. Given that you are (effectively, anyway, Mr. Mitty aside) building a utility bike, consider the fenders, too, unless you are fairweather only. If you want to carry much, panniers (or side racks) to hang from the rack and a bag/box/crate to go on top of the rack (and usually stick out over the top of the panniers) are also useful. Someone should make an integrated fender/rack, but I haven't seen one (not that I make any claim to have seen more than a small percentage of what's out there). > What kind of lock should I get? I'm assuming it should be a cable > style lock as both wheels have QRs. What's a good compromise between > security and light weight? Locks only keep honest people honest (and they all weigh a good deal more than a rack). Actual bike thieves have many options for removing locks, most fairly quickly. The link below, while worthwhile to read, seems to be unaware of the universal, non-bulky methods, but they exist, and I'm not going to educate any budding non-honest people, though I expect they will have little trouble finding out what some of those are. As an honest person with tools, I've removed a few locks for people with lost keys, and it's not all that hard, with no need to resort to LN2, a jack, or bolt-cutters. So, use a lock, but don't think that a 20 lb lock will protect much better than a 2-lb lock. Still, worth a read: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html The other aspect that does not discuss is letting your bike look very unattractive. Rust, mud and duct tape can be part of your security strategy, while wax and polish compromise it, by making your bike more attractive to all, including thieves. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
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#15 |
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> I find those soft grocery panniers to be pretty lame, as they sag.
> Good to pick one up on sale as they're light, of course, as they have > their times when they can be useful. Cheap panniers are better, IMHO-- oh i disagree; i've been using a "grocery" pannier to commute with for about 2 years now. it's held up well! it can hold a surprising amount of stuff/weight, too. the advantage of this style over the wald is that the straps on my backpack don't trail out the bottom and get caught up in the wheel. everything is contained in one space. i prefer these to panniers as well for commuting since i can just throw my backpack in there and then, when i'm on campus, just carry the backpack around, then throw it back in the basket when it's time to go home. that way i'm not packing/unpacking things all the time, if i want to take the train to campus i just grab my backpack, etc.. much more convenient, in my opinion. finally, like someone else said, i HATE wearing a backpack while cycling, even on a 5 mile commute. i end up all sweaty and i just don't like it. i think this is the ideal compromise. |
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