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#1 |
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Guest
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Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the
chain wheel side of the bike? I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a cheapo replacement for the whole bike? |
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#2 |
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Weatherlawyer <Weatherlawyer@hotmail.com>typed
> Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the > chain wheel side of the bike? > I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm > going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a > cheapo replacement for the whole bike? The chainwheel side is the right side. The right pedal has a 'normal' (RH) thread. Try penetrating oil, a bit of heat and a long strong 15mm spanner (applied anti-clockwise) to free a seized pedal. Good luck! -- Helen D. Vecht: helenvecht@zetnet.co.uk Edgware. |
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#3 |
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"Weatherlawyer" <Weatherlawyer@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:cd96dcf8-413b-426f-9871-cfbdf56c7ba6@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com... > Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the > chain wheel side of the bike? > > I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm > going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a > cheapo replacement for the whole bike? £12 got a me a new crank the other day at Paul's Cycles after a mate's square taper had gone non-square. Sheldon brown will tell you which way the thread goes. |
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#4 |
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On May 2, 7:16 pm, Weatherlawyer <Weatherlaw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the > chain wheel side of the bike? > > I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm > going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a > cheapo replacement for the whole bike? Thanks both. I haven't messed with a cycle in yonks, I vaguely remembered there being on thread going the wrong way. Maybe it's car wheel-nuts? So there is nothing welded or screwed in to hold it? I imagine I will have to replace both cups as well as the ball cages and axle. There again it's only a £15 junker I got from a Sunday market. I may just replace the bearings and forget about it. |
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#5 |
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Weatherlawyer wrote:
> On May 2, 7:16 pm, Weatherlawyer <Weatherlaw...@hotmail.com> wrote: >> Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the >> chain wheel side of the bike? >> >> I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm >> going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a >> cheapo replacement for the whole bike? > > Thanks both. I haven't messed with a cycle in yonks, I vaguely > remembered there being on thread going the wrong way. Maybe it's car > wheel-nuts? The left pedal has a left-hand thread (unscrews clockwise). > So there is nothing welded or screwed in to hold it? The pedal is just screwed into the crank. ~PB |
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#6 |
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On May 2, 10:16 pm, "Pete Biggs"
<p...@pomegranateremovehighlyimpracticalfruitbiggs.tc> wrote: > Weatherlawyer wrote: > > On May 2, 7:16 pm, Weatherlawyer <Weatherlaw...@hotmail.com> wrote: > >> Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the > >> chain wheel side of the bike? > > >> I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm > >> going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a > >> cheapo replacement for the whole bike? > > > Thanks both. I haven't messed with a cycle in yonks, I vaguely > > remembered there being on thread going the wrong way. Maybe it's car > > wheel-nuts? > > The left pedal has a left-hand thread (unscrews clockwise). > > > So there is nothing welded or screwed in to hold it? > > The pedal is just screwed into the crank. Sorry, my terminology went west with my age. Crank arm not pedal. Its the axle on the crank that has pitted. Not too bad but since I have it stripped.... |
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#7 |
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Weatherlawyer wrote:
>>> So there is nothing welded or screwed in to hold it? >> >> The pedal is just screwed into the crank. > > Sorry, my terminology went west with my age. Crank arm not pedal. Its > the axle on the crank that has pitted. Not too bad but since I have > it stripped.... I guess you mean the bottom bracket? .... http://tinyurl.com/5kho77 (Google Images) If so, you could just replace the whole BB for one with maintenance-free cartridge bearings (like most decent BBs have nowdays). This need be no more expensive than replacing parts of the existing BB. There are special tools to remove & fit BBs (and different ones for different makes/models), though sometimes you can bodge the classic type without. For a British standard BB, opposite to pedals, the right side has a left-hand thread, and the left side a right-hand thread. See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html - scroll down to "Bottom bracket". ~PB |
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#8 |
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In article <cd96dcf8-413b-426f-9871-cfbdf56c7ba6
@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, Weatherlawyer Weatherlawyer@hotmail.com says... > Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the > chain wheel side of the bike? > > I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm > going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a > cheapo replacement for the whole bike? > Do you mean the bottom bracket (i.e. the crank axle that goes through the frame)? If so that's (in the vast majority of cases) a LH thread on the drive side, RH thread on the other side. Pedals are the other way around - RH pedal RH thread, LH pedal LH thread. If it's a steel bearing cup with flats on the outside then one way to remove it is to grip the flats firmly in a large vice and use the frame as a lever. Another method is to weld a large nut to the cup - that gives you something easy to grip and the heat tends to free things up. |
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#9 |
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On Fri, 2 May 2008 11:16:41 -0700 (PDT), Weatherlawyer
<Weatherlawyer@hotmail.com> wrote: >Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the >chain wheel side of the bike? > >I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm >going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a >cheapo replacement for the whole bike? To unscrew, the spanner, assuming it is held above the pedal, always goes towards the back of the bike, for either side. If it does come unscrewed on the crank side, be very careful you don't punch your hand down the chainwheel. I still have the scars. pete |
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#10 |
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On May 3, 10:01 pm, Peter Grange <pe...@plgrange.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> On Fri, 2 May 2008 11:16:41 -0700 (PDT), Weatherlawyer > > <Weatherlaw...@hotmail.com> wrote: > >Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the > >chain wheel side of the bike? > > >I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm > >going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a > >cheapo replacement for the whole bike? > > To unscrew, the spanner, assuming it is held above the pedal, always > goes towards the back of the bike, for either side. If it does come > unscrewed on the crank side, be very careful you don't punch your hand > down the chain wheel. I still have the scars. Once again thanks for the posts everyone. I just cleaned the ball bearings (the drive side cage broke) and there are a couple with faces ground down to 3/4 spheres so I am pretty sure the cup needs to come off. I'll just cobble it back together for now as I don't have the tools or the space to do a repair/replacement. Anathema to some perhaps but I will cope until I get back in the frame. Thanks again. Mike. |
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#11 |
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Weatherlawyer wrote:
> > It's been so long since I was on a bike I am not looking forward to > it. I only bought the thing on the spur of the moment as it was so > cheap. > > It turned out to have a tube stuck down the seat stem, probably a > piece of conduit or something. I can't imagine why. But I couldn't get > it out so I left it in until it occurred to me to take the axle out > and knock it down. > > Now I need a new axle and the brakes want sorting. I used to enjoy > this sort of thing once but I can still remember the last time I got > on a bike after several years. I bet it will all be worth it, and you will enjoy that ride! ~PB |
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#12 |
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Weatherlawyer wrote:
> I just cleaned the ball bearings (the drive side cage broke) and there > are a couple with faces ground down to 3/4 spheres so I am pretty sure > the cup needs to come off. I'll just cobble it back together for now > as I don't have the tools or the space to do a repair/replacement. The cups probably do need replacing, but the bike should be rideable meanwhile if you just fit new balls and grease. You may need to leave some play in the bearings to allow them to turn freely enough, though they don't need to feel super-smooth when turning the axle by hand. Cages are just for convenience. In fact it's better not to use them in order to fit more balls, which allows load to be spread more evenly. The bike might be worth doing up properly if the frame and wheels are good. Otherwise I would just do the minimum to get it safely rideable, have a bit of fun with it, then replace the whole bike. ~PB |
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#13 |
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In article <addaabc3-705d-4368-b830-
b412fd5199de@k13g2000hse.googlegroups.com>, Weatherlawyer Weatherlawyer@hotmail.com says... > I just cleaned the ball bearings (the drive side cage broke) and there > are a couple with faces ground down to 3/4 spheres so I am pretty sure > the cup needs to come off. I'll just cobble it back together for now > as I don't have the tools or the space to do a repair/replacement. Use loose balls instead of clipped ones - you'll get a couple more in which spreads the load better, and there's no clip to fail and jam things up. > Anathema to some perhaps but I will cope until I get back in the > frame. > If you can get it to go around without much slack/crunching/knocking it's good enough, as long as the cup isn't so knackered that it's splitting and damaging the frame. It's possibly that the cup isn't too bad - the ball clips are a lot softer than the bearing surfaces, and the bearings are likely to have fractured rather than ground down (although the resulting shrapnel probably didn't do anything much good). |
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#14 |
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On May 4, 3:32 pm, "Pete Biggs"
<p...@pomegranateremovehighlyimpracticalfruitbiggs.tc> wrote: > Weatherlawyer wrote: > > > It's been so long since I was on a bike I am not looking forward to > > it. I only bought the thing on the spur of the moment as it was so > > cheap. > > > It turned out to have a tube stuck down the seat stem, probably a > > piece of conduit or something. I can't imagine why. But I couldn't get > > it out so I left it in until it occurred to me to take the axle out > > and knock it down. > > > Now I need a new axle and the brakes want sorting. I used to enjoy > > this sort of thing once but I can still remember the last time I got > > on a bike after several years. > > I bet it will all be worth it, and you will enjoy that ride! I bet it will break my arse for a week like it did before. |
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#15 |
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On May 3, 12:43 pm, Rob Morley <nos...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> In article <cd96dcf8-413b-426f-9871-cfbdf56c7ba6 > @e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, Weatherlawyer > Weatherlaw...@hotmail.com says...> Which way is the thread on the housing? for the pedal axle on the > > chain wheel side of the bike? > > > I can't seem to budge the damn thing in either direction. I think I'm > > going to need a new axle. Or would I be better off looking for a > > cheapo replacement for the whole bike? > > Do you mean the bottom bracket (i.e. the crank axle that goes through > the frame)? If so that's (in the vast majority of cases) a LH thread on > the drive side, RH thread on the other side. Pedals are the other way > around - RH pedal RH thread, LH pedal LH thread. > If it's a steel bearing cup with flats on the outside then one way to > remove it is to grip the flats firmly in a large vice and use the frame > as a lever. Another method is to weld a large nut to the cup - that > gives you something easy to grip and the heat tends to free things up. I got it off with a mole grips thanks. It has a lovely little recess carved into it. That should make fitting ball bearings easier. |
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