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#1 |
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Guest
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As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring
(some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail and softtail is starting. Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a softtail, or stay with what I know. My question is; Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail? Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail? The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and lots of mud. I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock. Mike mlawrenc(at)gmail.com |
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#2 |
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"mike" <mlawrenc@gmail.com> wrote in message news:b227dfb9-b0d6-4846-96fc-07016fae93f2@j20g2000hsi.googlegroups.com... > As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring > (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail > and softtail is starting. > Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a > softtail, or stay with what I know. > > My question is; > Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the > trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail? > > Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should > I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail? > > The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and > lots of mud. > I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock. > > Mike > mlawrenc(at)gmail.com for those riding conditions I'd stick with the ht. Now after saying that I rode my rigid ss Friday and was sooooo glad to be back on the double squishy Saturday. As you get older the soft tail become way more comfortable. Gary |
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#3 |
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On Feb 4, 11:20 am, mike <mlawr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring > (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail > and softtail is starting. > Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a > softtail, or stay with what I know. > > My question is; > Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the > trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail? > > Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should > I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail? > > The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and > lots of mud. > I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock. > > Mike > mlawrenc(at)gmail.com What's the target budget? IME you need to drop major coin to get a decent double-boingy, the lesser bikes have far too much in the way of weight and loss of translated power penalties. I've got a high-end hardtail (Ventana custom) and a entry/mid range full susser (Marin Rift Zone), and the HT is the only one I really use. The FS is more of a snow/beater/loaner bike. I've ridden FS bikes I liked, but they were all thousands and thousands of dollars. I've ridden hardtails I liked that cost less than a grand. |
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#4 |
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The budget will be a couple grand (~ $2500 to $3000CND).
The hardtail I am currently riding set me back about $2k back in 1998. I kind of hate giving up the old girl as my main bike, but the frame is starting to show it's age. (I cracked the frame twise last season.) Mike |
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#5 |
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On Feb 4, 1:36*pm, mike <mlawr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The budget will be a couple grand (~ $2500 to $3000CND). > The hardtail I am currently riding set me back about $2k back in 1998. > I kind of hate giving up the old girl as my main bike, but the frame > is starting to show it's age. (I cracked the frame twise last > season.) > > Mike I should have mentioned, the cracks where not from doing large drops. The Aluminum frame cracked at the bottom tubing leading from the rear wheel to the bottom bracket housing. Excessive torque while playing in the mud was probably the cause of this. Neither crack was at the weld. (1 crack on the chain side was about 2 inches from the weld on the BB tube, and the other side was about 1 inch from it.) Mike |
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#6 |
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On Feb 4, 11:20 am, mike <mlawr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring > (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail > and softtail is starting. > Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a > softtail, or stay with what I know. > > My question is; > Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the > trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail? > > Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should > I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail? > > The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and > lots of mud. > I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock. > > Mike > mlawrenc(at)gmail.com Well pal I'm in the same boat as you. Only differance is my HT was a bit cheaper, and the FS's I'd be looking at are a little cheaper. But most of the folks I ride with have FS bikes and seem to be very happy with them. At 58 years old my bones could use a little more cushioning. Eric |
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#7 |
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On Feb 4, 1:36*pm, mike <mlawr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The budget will be a couple grand (~ $2500 to $3000CND). > The hardtail I am currently riding set me back about $2k back in 1998. > I kind of hate giving up the old girl as my main bike, but the frame > is starting to show it's age. (I cracked the frame twise last > season.) > > Mike That's an interesting price point. If you were planning on spending $1G US, the answer would be a lot easier. I thought that for that a couple grand you could get a pretty nice sus bike these days. I mean, the Horst link is over 20 years old and ever since the Curnutt and similar other shocks were improved, I haven't noticed any major improvements. I figured I'd check out one of the major manufacturers to get an idea of what prices are like, and then I saw the MSRPs on the 2008 Spesh's. Makes me wonder if their whole pricing structure is out of wack. The cheapest StumpJumper FSR is $2400?! Ouch! However, I kind of think that these days spending 2G on a hard tail bike is excessive. I rented a $900 Haro Escape 8.2 a few years ago that was fantastic (and, unfortunately, discontinued.) The parts weren't blingy at all, but the bike felt very solid, fit me very well, and worked great. I guess a couple other question are whether these bikes are going to be some people's ONLY bike. That is, will this bike potentially be used for everything from commuting to grocery shopping to hitting the trails? Or are these going to be mountain bikes for mountain bikers, and do your conditions warrant the added weight and complexity of full sus? And do you all need to get the same model? /s |
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#8 |
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"Scott Gordo" <blubberpuss@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7cdddc11-eb14-4582-864e-5eb95979715a@s37g2000prg.googlegroups.com... On Feb 4, 1:36 pm, mike <mlawr...@gmail.com> wrote: > The budget will be a couple grand (~ $2500 to $3000CND). > The hardtail I am currently riding set me back about $2k back in 1998. > I kind of hate giving up the old girl as my main bike, but the frame > is starting to show it's age. (I cracked the frame twise last > season.) > > Mike That's an interesting price point. If you were planning on spending $1G US, the answer would be a lot easier. I thought that for that a couple grand you could get a pretty nice sus bike these days. I mean, the Horst link is over 20 years old and ever since the Curnutt and similar other shocks were improved, I haven't noticed any major improvements. I figured I'd check out one of the major manufacturers to get an idea of what prices are like, and then I saw the MSRPs on the 2008 Spesh's. Makes me wonder if their whole pricing structure is out of wack. The cheapest StumpJumper FSR is $2400?! Ouch! However, I kind of think that these days spending 2G on a hard tail bike is excessive. I rented a $900 Haro Escape 8.2 a few years ago that was fantastic (and, unfortunately, discontinued.) The parts weren't blingy at all, but the bike felt very solid, fit me very well, and worked great. I guess a couple other question are whether these bikes are going to be some people's ONLY bike. That is, will this bike potentially be used for everything from commuting to grocery shopping to hitting the trails? Or are these going to be mountain bikes for mountain bikers, and do your conditions warrant the added weight and complexity of full sus? And do you all need to get the same model? /s Mike, I recently made the switch from a HT to a FS. I ended up with a Specialized Epic Expert. List was around $3200 and I got if for $2300. The LBS was willing to deal! There haven't been many times that I've missed the HT and the FS is certainly more comfortable. I have almost no back and neck pain on the FS whereas the HT was starting to really hurt. Dave |
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#9 |
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mike wrote:
> As a number of us in the office are looking at new bikes this spring > (some lucky shop is going to love us), the debate between the hardtail > and softtail is starting. > Being a long time hardtail rider, I am stuck with do I go to a > softtail, or stay with what I know. > > My question is; > Is the weight, size, cost, and lose of power to ground, worth the > trade off for the traction, and comfort with a softtail? > > Or should I stick with a simpler, lighter, potentially cheaper (should > I not go overboard with add-ons/upgrades) hardtail? > > The riding would be primarily cross country, on rock, gravel, clay and > lots of mud. > I am currently riding a hardtail, setup primarily for mud and rock. > > Mike > mlawrenc(at)gmail.com Buy yourself a steel hard tail,my pick would be a Rocky Mountain Hammer or Blizzard and ride on any full squish at that price point will probably not last IMHO PS own a Blizzard and an Epic the Blizzard is way more fun!! |
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#10 |
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Dave: This bike would be for recreational riding only. I have a car, motorcycle and rollerblades for commuting to work, stores, etc. Given all the responses, I am still kind of stuck. Being that I hope to ride this bike at least half the millage I got out of my old one, a FS might be an idea. Current bike has ~16,000km on the clock, mostly commuting when I was in college. On the other side of the things, I live for the mud runs and hard technical riding. I am still a little concerned with how the full suspension would handle the mud/clay caked on it. (I weighed the bike after one of the clay/rain runs last year. My 25lb bike was over 35lb with the mud still attached.) Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major mud? My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/ grease. Mike |
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#11 |
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"mike" <mlawrenc@gmail.com> wrote in message news:d111809e-c1e0-4830-b393-7a0000283b30@z17g2000hsg.googlegroups.com... > > Dave: > > This bike would be for recreational riding only. I have a car, > motorcycle and rollerblades for commuting to work, stores, etc. > > Given all the responses, I am still kind of stuck. > Being that I hope to ride this bike at least half the millage I got > out of my old one, a FS might be an idea. Current bike has ~16,000km > on the clock, mostly commuting when I was in college. > > On the other side of the things, I live for the mud runs and hard > technical riding. I am still a little concerned with how the full > suspension would handle the mud/clay caked on it. (I weighed the bike > after one of the clay/rain runs last year. My 25lb bike was over 35lb > with the mud still attached.) > > Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major > mud? My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/ > grease. > > Mike Unless you go with a single speed the tune-up won't take much longer on the fs bike. The major strip/rebuild is in the derailleur, brakes and cables. A pivot doesn't take all that long to clean and lube. As for the added weight.....stay out of the mud if its on the trail because you're messing up the trail. If not on a trail then keep doing what you're doing...ride....clean.....ride....etc. |
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#12 |
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On Feb 5, 11:54*am, mike <mlawr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Dave: > > This bike would be for recreational riding only. I have a car, > motorcycle and rollerblades for commuting to work, stores, etc. > > Given all the responses, I am still kind of stuck. > Being that I hope to ride this bike at least half the millage I got > out of my old one, a FS might be an idea. Current bike has ~16,000km > on the clock, mostly commuting when I was in college. > > On the other side of the things, I live for the mud runs and hard > technical riding. I am still a little concerned with how the full > suspension would handle the mud/clay caked on it. (I weighed the bike > after one of the clay/rain runs last year. My 25lb bike was over 35lb > with the mud still attached.) > > Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major > mud? *My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/ > grease. > > Mike I've never had problem riding a FS in muddy conditions and I've never had to strip the bike down after a muddy ride. A quick hose down and lube seems to be all it needs. But, then again I don't expect my chain to last more than 6 months. I've also found I get better traction (climbing and cornering) in loose muddy/rocky conditions on my FS than my HT. As for handling with the extra weight, my FS starts at 36lb clean and so a bit or a lot or mud isn't going to make much difference. ![]() Where mud can be a pain, rim brakes can get clogged and why I run disks, spds can get clogged and may need an extra stamp to engage, fat tyres float over mud and so no traction and hence why I run 1.75s or narrower. If I only had one bike it would be a FS, it's just that bit more versatile than a HT. |
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#13 |
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Per mike:
>Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major >mud? My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/ >grease. My position has always been that dirt acts as a protective layer between the bike and the vicissitudes of the outside world: http://tinyurl.com/27wcou -- PeteCresswell |
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#14 |
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On Feb 5, 12:54*pm, mike <mlawr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Dave: > > This bike would be for recreational riding only. I have a car, > motorcycle and rollerblades for commuting to work, stores, etc. > > Given all the responses, I am still kind of stuck. > Being that I hope to ride this bike at least half the millage I got > out of my old one, a FS might be an idea. Current bike has ~16,000km > on the clock, mostly commuting when I was in college. > > On the other side of the things, I live for the mud runs and hard > technical riding. I am still a little concerned with how the full > suspension would handle the mud/clay caked on it. (I weighed the bike > after one of the clay/rain runs last year. My 25lb bike was over 35lb > with the mud still attached.) > > Has anyone and much experience with the full suspension bikes in major > mud? *My current bike is about a 3 hour job to strip, and rebuild/ > grease. > > Mike I don't want to preach, but you just removed 10lbs of dirt from your trail. /s |
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#15 |
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Maybe if I was riding on an organized trail or a golf course I would
worry about the mud that was removed. |
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