Polar CS600 Power - First on the Block...

Originally Posted by Ergoman

It's been over a month and 800+ miles since I last had a dropout with the CS600. I think the secret is making sure that the batteries are fresh, can move freely in the holder and make good, solid electrical contact. I'm using Energizer Lithium batteries which seem to be very long lasting and may have contributed to this long spell of troublefree operation.

Originally Posted by mortimer99

Just to add, make sure the batteries are in the right position in the battery pack. I had put them in with the silver connector facing the wrong way and they worked, but the drop outs increased. I made sure and put them in correctly and no dropouts.

On another note, I run a triple, and I seem to get some weird readings when I am in the biggest gears on the 53. Seems the power readings are a bit high.

Anyone else seen this?

Originally Posted by Tom Anhalt

What's the spacing between the chain and the sensor when in this gearing?

If it's >30mm, then you're going to need to shim your sensor up a little higher if you find yourself using those gears often. This may mean that the chain will rub across the top of the case when on a small chainring and small cogs in the back...especially troublesome with the wide range of chainring diameters associated with a triple. Rubbing on the top of the case won't harm it, but you probably want to avoid that type of gear selection (along with the large chainring - large cog selection you originally referred to) just from an excessive cross-chaining standpoint. Heck, you've got a bunch of gears to choose, USE them and don't crosschain!


What's happening is that as the chain gets further from the sensor, it is less able to "pick up" the vertical chain vibration signal and the processing electronics tend to "lock on" to any other signal available...such as the chain pins passing the sensor (the vibration sensor is just "looking" for changes in inductance close to the coil.) This will typically cause your power readings to appear too high.

Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by mortimer99

I didn't quite explain it right, I do my best to avoid cross-chaining . I get the higher readings when I am in the large front ring small rear cog. I already have 2 shims to move the chain up, and it currrently rubs in the small ring, middle cog. I will have to measure and see how far away it is.

thanks for the insight.

Originally Posted by Tom Anhalt

For the same reasons listed above, here's another thing to check: Always make sure that the chain passes directly over the case. In fact, make sure it passes over an ~1.5 wide section centered on the "middle" mark. That's where the inductive sensor resides. I'm thinking that perhaps your sensor is skewed slightly inward relative to the chainline and when you're in your large chainring - small cog combo the chain is too far off to the side. Again, it would end up being a lack of "signal" for the sensor. Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by bverdon

I doubt that is it. I mean...if that were it...by now I think we would all relize that certain gear combos worked...and others did not.

Thanks for the advice though...

Originally Posted by Tom Anhalt

Don't forget that with a triple the distance between the outer chainring and the inner chainring is larger than on a double. So, unless everything is lined up right, you're more likely to have the chain "off the side" of the module with a triple setup than with a double.

Originally Posted by shoots

just to add my $0.02
ive been using my polar unit for 2 months now and the few drop outs we're sorted out by jiggling the connectors....very technical i know other than that ive been very happy with the unit

but i had a drop out that lasted for over an hour riding home so thought maybe it was time for new batteries....inserted new batteries(duracell) and i couldn't get the unit to work...tried relearning sensor and it found it just fine...just no cadence and power readings while riding....Grrrrrrrr

so i've just tried the bending the battery terminals as suggested by bverdon and voila ive got power and cadence readings
i haven't tried it out on the road yet but here's hoping

so i for one vote for the crappy power pack design....but then maybe there's issues with various parts of the design!!!!! who knows

shoots

Originally Posted by baffer

out of utter frustration I de-installed my polar cs600 power kit alltogether...

ive tried everything you guys tried, to come to the same conslusion: I keep experiencing dropouts. I will be contacting polar about all this.

Is there anyway I can get a refund? Did someone try?

I dont feel for sending this thing back to polar and then receiving it after a number of weeks with the remark that it "works just fine" in our lab......

Originally Posted by jeff262

Didn't try for a refund, but they quickly replaced the paddle with no questions asked. Of course the new paddle didn't work either which pointed me to the battery holder. I fixed that and all has been good so far. I have been through some brutal rides and big temperature swings since the fix with no issues.