Converting MT into Roadbike??

cavedog

I realize this thread is old, but.....I ride a "mountain bike" that I've put street tires on. I used to be strickly a roadie, but, after riding the MTB with 2.125 tires with shocks, I love it. IMO, the street is not as pristine as some would have you believe. Having wide fat tires on a stiff frame works for me. I can "get light" over curbs without having to worry about broken spokes, and when the real world throws a pothole at me, the bike is better equiped to deal with it. It may be more inefficient, but sometimes, that is the way the world is.

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slcbob1

I ride a converted hard tail 20 miles everyday for a commuter / town bike. Works great. Though I would not recommend for legit group road biking unless you need to handicap yourself because you're riding with a group below you. But a few cheap changes made a big difference.

Key mods for speed I made, over the course of time, in order of perceived impact:
- slicks (as stated in earlier posts) (~$40)
- road cluster (11-25 for me) (~$35)
- rigid fork ($55)

Only other speed mod would be clip-on bars, but on a pseudo MTB I think they'd boost the freak factor up to near recumbent level and I don't like hunching over that much given the frame angles. That's where I'd buy a new frame. But I do get another free 2mph whenever I drop out of the upright position.

Wouldn't ride without clipless so can't tell you where on the pecking order they stand.

Get a cluster with an 11 small gear, as you have will still have too much bottom and need all the top gear you can get with just a 44T chainring. As is I can go to around 29mph before I'm just spinning too fast, so haven't felt the need to mess with the cranks and chainrings.

The fork was from Nashbar, about $55 for the part only, probably another $40-$60 if you don't do your own work. Bigger difference than I expected, don't believe the crack head who says suspension doesn't hurt you. Key measurement, other than the 1 1/8 or 1 steerer, is the axle-to-crown height so you don't screw up your frame geometry. Get that right, and just buy the cheapest one you can find. There's plenty of give in the MTB wheels and your arms for road riding.

Other mods for commuter comfort / safety, so maybe you don't care:
- fenders!!!!
- rack / panniers
- lights
- reflector stickers all over the damn thing

One thing left I covet -- since I already have disc-ready hubs and the new rigid fork has IS mounts, I may spring for a front Avid BB7 for those wet days. No mounts on the rear, so impractical to lust for disc all around.

LioNiNoiL

I don't know where you've seen "huge sections of cobbles", but the courses on which the Spring Classics are run are velvety-smooth compared to the two urban construction zones through which I commute.Good for you, you're a frakkin' hero. My recommendation was directed toward those who merely want to commute to work without having to become a frakkin' hero.

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GeekCyclist

Wow - maybe my post was a little heavy on the sarcasm. Sorry for that.

My point is this. In my opinion a full-suspension bike is overkill for commuting use. This opinion is based on 4 years of nearly daily commuting on two different bikes, 30 miles round trip in the Salt Lake City, Utah area. I think this for the following reasons:

• It will be heavier and slower than a comparably equipped hard-tail or touring bike.
• On smoother roads, unless you can lock out the suspensions, your pedaling will be less efficient.
• More moving parts = more maintenance
• It's more difficult to attach fenders, a rack and panniers to most (not all) full-sus bikes.
• Sure, on a full-sus you may be able to bunny-hop obstacles better, etc. But in my opinion, if you have to do that regularly, you should be looking for a new route to work. You miss the hop you may end up really late.

When people tell me that they are thinking of commuting, I tell them to use the bike they have. When they tell me they are ready to upgrade I recommend:

• Flat or Drop Bar road bike designed for touring, or a hard tail mtn bike. (My hard tail has a rigid fork as well).
• Fenders and a rack. Personal preference, but I don't like things on my back.
• Tires - For 700c wheels, I like 28-32 widths; for 26" I like 1.5 slicks.
• If they have been biking a while, or come from a "spinning class" background, clipless pedals, otherwise platforms, maybe with toe clips.

Like they say after the TV editorials, The GeekCyclist welcomes contrasting points-of-view, from responsible individuals.

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