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mountain Bike Lube

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Old 15-07.-2005, 12:09 AM   #16
dabac
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Default Re: mountain Bike Lube

Quote:
Originally Posted by moparchris
yeah used engine oil, why dont you just keep it in your engine since its still good lol
That's Irondonut's habit, not mine.

Quote:
and "...because I'm riding well enough that I mostly use the big ring..."
Not my text either.

Quote:
oh yes and its so shocking that you have to pay for quality...
Once again, not my text.

Do try to aim the replies to whom it concerns please.
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Old 15-07.-2005, 09:52 PM   #17
mpm
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Default Re: mountain Bike Lube

Hi people,

I´m using an industrial chain lube based on molybdenum disulfide, it is a dry film that works excellent (for me). You can find this product in brands like Loctite or Molykote.

Regards.

Marcelo
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Old 23-07.-2005, 07:15 AM   #18
willtsmith
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Default Re: mountain Bike Lube

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmax
Not only does WD40 attract dirt, but it's hydroscopic. It actually absorbs/attracts moisture, and will do little to prevent rust. It's about the last lubricant I would use on my bike. Something silicon, wax or Teflon based would be much better for your ride.

Tom

I wash my chain with the park chain tool and isopropyl alcohol. If it's VERY muddy, I use the hose first.

The key is that you have to get the water out of the chain, otherwise it rusts.

The alcohol displaces the water out of the chain and it dries rapidly. Then I hit it with Extreme Purple in prep for the next outing.

This season has been nothing but dust. But it's important to get that out too.
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Old 26-07.-2005, 12:25 PM   #19
IronDonut
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Default Re: mountain Bike Lube

On the first point... you change engine oil because as the engine runs the oil picks up carbon from combustion. If you don't change it the carbon will start to gunk up the insides of your engine and if left long enough will bring it to a halt. The oil never loses it's ability to lubricate. So in an application where tiny carbon nuggets don't matter because sand particles that are 100,000 times larger are scraping them off (with hunks of metal) faster than they can depost ... it's not a bad application.

I'm in the big ring for two reasons, I'm pretty fast and I live in an area that is basically flat. I don't know if this is just my imagination but for some reason the bike just feels like it rolls better in the big ring. And I generally spin at 90-105 rpm.

Lastly, the XTR chainrings are high quality aluminum alloy and it's forged in a machine that stamps about 10 of them out every second. Probably cost after every cost is factored in about $3.00 to make. Let me put this into perspective for you; whats an XTR big ring weigh? 2 ounces? At the going rate for silver the XTR chainring would require about $40.00 in silver. Thats about a nickles worth of aluminum. If you think there is any quality difference different between an XTR big ring and an XT big ring aside from an 'R' and a bolt pattern that makes the two incompatible you're the biggest sucker I've talked with today.



Quote:
Originally Posted by moparchris
sorry, just clicked the quick reply and quote message was ticked and forgot to un-tick it.

yeah used engine oil, why dont you just keep it in your engine since its still good lol

and "...because I'm riding well enough that I mostly use the big ring..." if your always using your big ring (in general.. depending what gearing you have) your probably pedaling too slow (Mmm.. i'd like knee replacements please) you should most likely use a higher cadence or your using a bad selection of gears (chainline should be straight).

oh yes and its so shocking that you have to pay for quality, why dont they just make the good stuff cheap as, engineers dont need to be payed, shops dont need markup, theyre a charity.. sure
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Old 26-07.-2005, 12:27 PM   #20
IronDonut
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Default Re: mountain Bike Lube

That is a great tip. I appriciate that. I think I'll grab some of that and try it out.



Quote:
Originally Posted by p38lightning
I'd like to offer a low cost alternative to engine oil. LSA medium weight weapons oil was developed by the military for use in the M16 rifle. It is inexpensive, and loaded with Teflon (you have to shake it before you use it). It's all that I ever use on my drive train for lube. It can be found at you local military surplus (as in Army and Navy) stores, and at gun shows.
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Old 07-08.-2005, 12:21 PM   #21
cyberlegend1994
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Default Re: mountain Bike Lube

Quote:
Originally Posted by dabac
You're missing the point, the stuff is TOXIC! No matter if it still retains most of its lubing qualities, it's a health and environmental hazard. Not a nice thing to have spattering your legs and spraying the area you're riding through.

Household 3-in-one oil, available at most hardware stores, works wonders for me as a chain lube - I have used it for many years with no problems....

Falling short of that, clean, unused motor oil will work just as well if not better, don't use used motor oil - if it splatters onto your skin repeatedly and is left on too long it can cause skin cancer....
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Old 07-09.-2005, 03:57 AM   #22
Hill05
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Default Re: mountain Bike Lube

Hi,

This is my first post. Currently I use finish line teflon plus dry lube, and a finish line degreaser. My question is it best to use dry or wet lubes. I figured dry lubes wouldnt pick up as much dirt?

One time when I was out of lube I tried some mobile one synthetic engine oil(new, not used), and that seemed to work pretty good, but I wasnt sure if long term if that was a good idea. It didnt seem to attract alot od dirt though.
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Old 07-09.-2005, 04:40 AM   #23
Scotty_Dog
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Default Re: mountain Bike Lube

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hill05
Hi,

My question is it best to use dry or wet lubes.
General rule is to use a dry lube for dry conditions, and a wet lube for wet conditions.
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