Shoes, and a cheap place for them in Brisbane?

Eug K

John Doe <pdrinan@hotmail.com> wrote:
> : > You will never know how you did without them. Riding is so much more enjoyable.
> :
> : hrm, I can only afford to "step-up" one at a time, i.e. shoes first, then pedals. Is the
> : difference that apparent when used with normal pedals?
>
> You can get pedals fairly cheap if you want to upgrade later. Just get some cheapies to start
> with. The shoes by themselves only give you a slight advantage through their stiffness without
> pedals. I would save a little more and get them both together. Just shop around asking what
> cheapish packages are going. Cheap is better than nothing. You will enjoy them trust me.

alright, will start looking for cheap ones then. Hopefully I can get a cheap used one off ebay or
something. Is there a major difference between the different standards, and different brands or
models? I've seen a new pair for $69.

thanks

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Damo

On 5 Apr 2003 10:00:21 GMT, eug k <removethis@optushome.com.au> wrote:

>John Doe <pdrinan@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> : > You will never know how you did without them. Riding is so much more enjoyable.
>> :
>> : hrm, I can only afford to "step-up" one at a time, i.e. shoes first, then pedals. Is the
>> : difference that apparent when used with normal pedals?
>>
>> You can get pedals fairly cheap if you want to upgrade later. Just get some cheapies to start
>> with. The shoes by themselves only give you a slight advantage through their stiffness without
>> pedals. I would save a little more and get them both together. Just shop around asking what
>> cheapish packages are going. Cheap is better than nothing. You will enjoy them trust me.
>
>alright, will start looking for cheap ones then. Hopefully I can get a cheap used one off ebay or
>something. Is there a major difference between the different standards, and different brands or
>models? I've seen a new pair for $69.
>
>
>thanks

I got shimano pedals PDM505 + Lake MX80 shoes for $169 + 6$ P&H from www.bikes.com.au . Pedals were
temporary out of stock, so took them 2 weeks to arrive, but they shipped for free to compensate. The
shoe by themselves retail for around $120 so I thought it was a good deal.

Go to a few local bike shops first to figure out what size you are.

cheers damo

John Doe

I got shimano pedals PDM505 + Lake MX80 shoes for $169 + 6$ P&H from
: www.bikes.com.au . Pedals were temporary out of stock, so took them 2 weeks to arrive, but they
: shipped for free to compensate. The shoe by themselves retail for around $120 so I thought it was
: a good deal.
:
: Go to a few local bike shops first to figure out what size you are.
:
This is a pretty good deal but some LBS might come close to that anyway - not sure been a few years
since I have bought shoes/pedals in Aus.

Jessica Lowder

> I'm also interested in an outlet that sells wider casual style MTB shoes. I have a pair of
> Carnacs, but they aren't the best for walking around in & the bright yellow isn't exactly an
> understated look.

Not sure what shops - but I have a pair of John Luck MTB SPD compatible shoes..

The cleat is inset so it doesnt hit the ground when walking.

Also look at the Lake shoes - they have street shoe styles...

Cant tell you about any shops in Brisbane - but in Melbourne try The Freedom Machine in South Yarra,
Mascot Cycles in Richmond, Cecil Walker in the CBD and Bike Life in Hawthorn

Eug K

damo <damien@nospampleaseitee.uq.edu.au> wrote:
> On 5 Apr 2003 10:00:21 GMT, eug k <removethis@optushome.com.au> wrote:
>>John Doe <pdrinan@hotmail.com> wrote:

>>> You can get pedals fairly cheap if you want to upgrade later. Just get some cheapies to start
>>> with. The shoes by themselves only give you a slight advantage through their stiffness without
>>> pedals. I would save a little more and get them both together. Just shop around asking what
>>> cheapish packages are going. Cheap is better than nothing. You will enjoy them trust me.
>>
>>alright, will start looking for cheap ones then. Hopefully I can get a cheap used one off ebay or
>>something. Is there a major difference between the different standards, and different brands or
>>models? I've seen a new pair for $69.
>>
>
> I got shimano pedals PDM505 + Lake MX80 shoes for $169 + 6$ P&H from www.bikes.com.au . Pedals
> were temporary out of stock, so took them 2 weeks to arrive, but they shipped for free to
> compensate. The shoe by themselves retail for around $120 so I thought it was a good deal.

shucks, seems like they're out of PDM505s. Must have been replaced by the 515s at $79. Looks like
you got a good deal!

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Eug K

John Doe <pdrinan@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Sometimes when
> : pedalling hard up a hill, the chain slips a tooth or so and can throw me
> off
> : balance for a bit, especially on the downstroke. Is it a problem with the chain, or the
> : derailleurs, or the color of my socks, or .....?
>
> Could be a couple of things. Maybe your derailleur needs adjustment. Its trying to change gear.
> Most likely though your chain is stretched (not really stretched but the length between links has
> increased. This requires replacement of the chain and most likely cluster as well.
>
> Check this link out... http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
>
> look at chain stretch and also "Chain & Sprocket wear"

thanks, will have a read. I'll probably pick up a new chain soon. My bike store says the cogs might
be worn out. Just had a look, they still seem ok... so I'll probably just change the chain first.

The nikes have dropped in price too, $142 from $149.

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John Doe

thanks, will have a read.
: I'll probably pick up a new chain soon. My bike store says the cogs might be worn out. Just had a
: look, they still seem ok... so I'll probably just change the chain first.

Its not really that the cluster gets worn out. More the fact that they bend a little to match the
chain. Putting a new chain on old cogs may quickly wear the new chain out putting you back where
you started.

Glen F

> Its not really that the cluster gets worn out. More the fact that they bend a little to match
> the chain.

Bend? You mean the drive faces of the teeth get worn where the chain contacts them. As a result a
new chain on an old cog will often "jump" when loaded.

> Putting a new chain on old cogs may quickly wear the new chain out putting you back where you
> started.

I think you may have that backwards. I can see how a worn chain will damage a new cog, but not how a
worn cog will do much damage to a new chain. Unless jumping wildly of course.

John Doe

Bend? You mean the drive faces of the teeth get worn where the chain
: contacts them. As a result a new chain on an old cog will often "jump" when loaded.
:
: > Putting a new chain on old cogs may quickly wear the new chain out putting you back where you
: > started.
:
: I think you may have that backwards. I can see how a worn chain will damage a new cog, but not how
: a worn cog will do much damage to a new chain. Unless jumping wildly of course.
:
:

You the man

John Doe

Bend? You mean the drive faces of the teeth get worn where the chain
: contacts them.

Worn? Bend? I assume you mean worn as opposed to bend means the tooth is ground smaller or
something. You will find that some teeth due to the inconsistent load will ramp backward. I dont
know if this is entirely due to the tooth actually getting ground away by the chain. You could be
right. I am no expert. Dont think it really matters to get this guy back on the road and my advice
even maybe incorrect as to the cause does not effect the outcome.

>I can see how a worn chain will damage a new cog, but not how a worn cog will do >much damage to a
>new chain.

This advice can however effect him if not taken into account.

I gave the guy the link on Sheldon Brown. You should have a read...

"A new chain on a worn sprocket. Most of the driving is happening on the left side, where the chain
first engages the sprocket. Due to the mismatch in pitch, the rollers in the part of the chain that
is about to leave the sprocket is doing very little to push their teeth forward, instead, they are
being forced upward by the slope of the teeth. Since the teeth/rollers on our left are doing most of
the work the load is concentrated on them.

In addition, as the roller follows its tooth around the sprocket it rolls up the "ramp," while under
load. This promotes wear to the insides of the rollers and to the "bushings" they roll on. With a
properly meshed chain, the roller only turns a tiny bit as it rolls onto and off of the chain.

Due to the pitch mismatch, the chain will not reliably mesh with the sprocket under load, and will
tend to jump forward, skipping over the teeth."

and also for posterity in the other direction

"A worn chain on a new sprocket. Due to the pitch mismatch, the load is only carried by the
teeth/rollers on our right, the chain hangs slack on our left. The new sprocket will wear rapidly to
match the pitch of the worn-out chain."

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html (sorry sheldon if I have not given you enough credit
here for blatantly cutting from your web site but some people will not take the time to follow
your links).

Dont really care so here is the drum from barnetts bible. Chapter 26. Symptom Chain slips or skips
on a cog when pedalling hard

Cause: Fresh Chain not meshing with worn cog Solution: Replace cog or cogs

Cause: Worn chain not meshing with fresh cogs Solution: Replace Chain

Cause: Pawls are not catching on internal ratchet ring because they are dirty, rusty, work or broken
(HAD THIS ONE HAPPEN TO ME). Solution: Clean and oil freewheel/freehub body and replace if symptom
persists (I had to replace).

Cheers Peter