Tune-Up Quality

Jeff Starr

Rick Onanian <spamsink@cox.net> wrote in message news:<erod80pl7mulf52a10ftrsklgik87u1id5@4ax.com>...
> On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 20:37:12 -0400, "T Scanlin"
> <magiclightpixNO.SPAM.@NO.SPAM.hotmail.com> wrote:
> >Am I expecting too much from the LBS? Is tuning an Ultegra triple that
> >difficult?
>
> No. I, a rank amateur (at best), did a fine job replacing my 105
> double crank & derailer with Ultegra triple. I got it perfect in
> under an hour. Works beautifully. I did it according to Barnett's,
> the Shimano installation page that came with the parts, and
> sheldonbrown.com.

Hi, I recently replaced my handlebars,stem, bottom bracket, crankset,
and STI levers. And then a few weeks later the rear derailleur. Other
than a few followup adjustments to the front derailleur, everything
was done right the first time. Just like Rick, I got all my install
instructions from the Shimano install sheets and online. I also found
the instructions at Park Tool very helpful:
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml

To do this project I needed a few specialized tools, two that I think
were required was the crank remover and bottom bracket tool. I had
bought a starter tool set on sale at Nashbar, but you could buy these
items seperately.
Tool kit:
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...reid=&pagename=

I also bought a cable and housing cutter, but there are other ways to
do that. Recently, someone recommended using a Dremel tool. If you
don't have a Dremel tool, then the cutter is much cheaper. The other
tool that I found helpful, to me, necessary, was a set of metric
hexhead sockets. I needed those to use with my torque wrench. I
already had a torque wrench, but a recent thread had some low cost
options. A set of metric hexhead sockets was around $12 at Home Depot.
After the initial investment, you will have these tools forever. I
have been acquiring tools, ever since I was a teenager.

I like the idea of being able to do my own maintenance and upgrades.
I'm not ready to tackle headset replacement or wheel work, but most
other jobs on a road bike are pretty much r&r[remove & replace]. The
other thing is, my LBS has one really good wrench, but if he doesn't
do the work, the skills of the other guys varies widely. When you have
to bring the bike back after the free [90 day?] tuneup, because it
shifts badly, when it had shifted fine when I brought it in, I lose
confidence. Even after the second trip, it wasn't right. I finally did
some reading online and did it myself.

I feel very lucky to have all these online resources available to me.
Life is Good!
Jeff

Paul Kopit

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 21:41:59 -0500, A Muzi <am@yellowjersey.org>
wrote:

>Paul Kopit wrote:
>-snip-
>> On the other end of the spectrum, I've had poor luck with the KMC
>> chain.
>
>We use a lot of KMC Ten - what sort of unluckiness?

The front shifts from a smaller ring to a larger one are not as crisp
as a Shimano9, or IRD chain. A 48/34 double on my wife's bike was
very sluggish going to the 48t, a Real, ramped ring. I just changed
chain to Shimano 9sp and the chain popped right up. Same thing
observed on my tandem. The HG 72 is difficult to beat.

I don't think that the art deco shape on the sideplates does much of
anything and the "missing link" is not removable for chain removal for
cleaning, etc.

Peter Headland

Ted Bennett wrote...
> I'd be interested in your reasoning for that. In my experience, SRAM
> chains work just as well as Shimano, and replacing a chain that isn't
> worn out accomplishes nothing at all.

Like others here, I have found SRAM not to shift nearly so well as
Shimano. Also, measurement shows SRAM to be thicker than Shimano (=
more chance of rubbing).

The narrowest 9sp chain I know of is the Wipperman, but that shifted
really badly on the back when I tried it.

--
Peter Headland

Rick Onanian

On 23 Apr 2004 07:30:03 -0700, jstarr@peoplepc.com (Jeff Starr)
wrote:
>bought a starter tool set on sale at Nashbar, but you could buy these
>items seperately.
>Tool kit:
>http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...reid=&pagename=

Those kits are cool, but by the time I realized that I could use
one, I had half of it already.

>I also bought a cable and housing cutter, but there are other ways to
>do that. Recently, someone recommended using a Dremel tool. If you
>don't have a Dremel tool, then the cutter is much cheaper. The other

Apart from the million-and-one other uses for a dremel, discount
stores sell cheezy similar tools that ought to be fine; and there
was at least one post I've read where somebody said the dremel is
better. It certainly makes a clean cut without any crushing.

>tool that I found helpful, to me, necessary, was a set of metric
>hexhead sockets. I needed those to use with my torque wrench. I
>already had a torque wrench, but a recent thread had some low cost
>options. A set of metric hexhead sockets was around $12 at Home Depot.

I assume you're talking about allen wrench bits with a square drive.
The set was more like $22 at the Home Depot near me; or was that
Lowes... Anyway, cheap alternatives:
- Torque Wrench: $5 at Ocean State Job Lot (in New England) or
similar store
- Cheap metric socket set from same place
- Cheap set of allen wrenches from dollar store
- Grind corners off allen wrenches and use in sockets

>After the initial investment, you will have these tools forever. I

Also, said initial investment costs as much for any given job as the
labor would for somebody else to do it.

>I'm not ready to tackle headset replacement or wheel work, but most

While I don't expect to need to replace any headsets anytime soon,
I'l going to build some wheels soon. It seemed very intimidating
having never done it, until I read "The Bicycle Wheel".

>I feel very lucky to have all these online resources available to me.
>Life is Good!

It sure is.
--
Rick Onanian

ZeeExSixAre

>> I also bought a cable and housing cutter, but there are other ways to
>> do that. Recently, someone recommended using a Dremel tool. If you
>> don't have a Dremel tool, then the cutter is much cheaper. The other
>
> Apart from the million-and-one other uses for a dremel, discount
> stores sell cheezy similar tools that ought to be fine; and there
> was at least one post I've read where somebody said the dremel is
> better. It certainly makes a clean cut without any crushing.

If you cut too fast, you melt/expand the external plastic of the housing.

If you buy cheesy ripoffs, they have no voltage regulator to increase the
torque with increasing load, so inevitably you end up stopping the cutting
disc with only light pressure. They are also extremely off-balance,
vibrating in your hand, causing you to be numb in seconds.

Plus, I don't trust poorly-made products spinning cutting discs at 30,000
RPM, and I don't think you would either.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Rick Onanian

On 23 Apr 2004 12:07:52 -0700, PHeadland@actuate.com (Peter
Headland) wrote:
>The narrowest 9sp chain I know of is the Wipperman, but that shifted
>really badly on the back when I tried it.

My Wipperman nickel-plated 9s is fine, on an all ultegra drive
except the 105 rear derailer.
--
Rick Onanian

Rick Onanian

On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 16:35:05 -0400, "ZeeExSixAre"
<phil_leeIHEARTBASHGUARDS@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Plus, I don't trust poorly-made products spinning cutting discs at 30,000
>RPM, and I don't think you would either.

Point taken. I use a Craftsman...
--
Rick Onanian

neil0502

T Scanlin wrote:
> I had my LBS tune my Trek 2300 /Ultegra triple and I'm not a happy
> camper.When I originally took it in, I mentioned the front der wouldn't
> trim properly but otherwise everything was fine. (I told them the large
> ring/small cog combo chain hit the outer part of the cage.)
> Of course, when I picked it up it was raining like a bear so I didn't
> get a chance to ride it and check it out.. The next day I noticed it
> still had the same problem and front der had the little bit of slight
> film on the der pivot points, exactly like when I took it on. I wasn't
> convinced they did anything.
> I took it back to the shop and wanked about it. They mentioned the first
> tech had to leave and passed it to someone else to finish and something
> must have gotten overlooked. So, the chief tech threw it in a stand,
> putzed around for a few minutes and pronounced it ready. I took it for a
> quick spin and pronounced it NOT ready. Basically, for each front ring I
> had about 3-4 rear cogs that were usable without chain noise from
> hitting either the inner/outer part of the cage.
> When new, I don't remember any chain noise that couldn't be trimmed out,
> even with severe cross chain combos. (I didn't cross chain but COULD
> have without chain noise.)
> Am I expecting too much from the LBS? Is tuning an Ultegra triple
> that difficult? Anyone recommend a quality shop in the northern
> Detroit burbs?

I think you've gotten some pretty good advice here. Typical!

My $0.02: There's one wrench in San Diego that I'd trust for anything,
but I'm pretty intent on rarely needing him.

I'm into the tools for cheap. Bought a Park Tool stand, too. I'm keeping
my 13 year-old mountain bike for a while longer. It's a heavy MTB, but a
great guinea pig for repairs. I'm getting pretty good at tuning a triple
FD--handy for the Ultegra triple on my road bike.

MTB's Rapid Fire shifter just exploded last week. Internet, here we go
(Thanks, Sheldon!). New shifters and cables all came in today. Picked up
some new bars and grips, too. A few sunny hours on the porch, a couple
of printed pages from the Barnett's book, music playing at volumes like
I used to enjoy (when I really was young). The $13 inch-pound torque
wrench (made in some country that does not appear on the map) and an old
pill bottle full of cable crimps, housing crimps, and cable donuts.

Other than me having gotten a little sloppy on cable routing (I'll fix
it soon), it all turned out quite well. They're simple machines, by and
large, and there really are phenomenal resources online to point you in
the right direction (I like the Barnett's Manual best).

I presume the professionals, as a group, are experienced, competent, and
well-meaning people. They aren't in it for the bucks, that's for sure.
But they still have five more bikes to get done before they can go home.
I just have mine....

Neil




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