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#1 |
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Guest
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I am so tried of my rear brake (Hayes HFX with a 6 inches rotor) squealing
like a stuck pig. Problem is when it is hot it will not be quite. Been living with this intermittent problem since I bought my Turner 5-spot over one-year ago. I have tried all the suggestions gleamed from this group, to no avail. Did not have this problem on my old bike with cheap 525 Hydraulic Shimano Deores. I am ready to try another brakes and open to suggestions. The first brake set that comes to mind is Avid Juicy Seven's. |
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#2 |
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Dean A. Stepper wrote:
> I am so tried of my rear brake (Hayes HFX with a 6 inches rotor) squealing > like a stuck pig. Problem is when it is hot it will not be quite. Been > living with this intermittent problem since I bought my Turner 5-spot over > one-year ago. I have tried all the suggestions gleamed from this group, to > no avail. Did not have this problem on my old bike with cheap 525 Hydraulic > Shimano Deores. > > I am ready to try another brakes and open to suggestions. The first brake > set that comes to mind is Avid Juicy Seven's. > > Well, I can't blame you... disc brakes can be very frustrating. I had to buy a different brand, I wouldn't look any farther than the mono's http://www.hopetech.com/products/products_index.htm Never tried them, but they sure are purdy! -- Slacker |
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#3 |
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"Slacker" <slacker7@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:c4q930$2ltjr6$1@ID-191655.news.uni-berlin.de... > Dean A. Stepper wrote: > > > I am so tried of my rear brake (Hayes HFX with a 6 inches rotor) squealing > > like a stuck pig. Problem is when it is hot it will not be quite. Been > > living with this intermittent problem since I bought my Turner 5-spot over > > one-year ago. I have tried all the suggestions gleamed from this group, to > > no avail. Did not have this problem on my old bike with cheap 525 Hydraulic > > Shimano Deores. > > > > I am ready to try another brakes and open to suggestions. The first brake > > set that comes to mind is Avid Juicy Seven's. > > > > > Well, I can't blame you... disc brakes can be very frustrating. I had to > buy a different brand, I wouldn't look any farther than the mono's > > http://www.hopetech.com/products/products_index.htm > > Never tried them, but they sure are purdy! > Those are purdy. Hope makes some nice looking stuff. I would like some of those 'Gothic' rotors. Hey, ya never know, I could get stranded in the woods, and can use them to cut firewood. |
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#4 |
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Have not tried Cool Stop pads...would like to try them, where do they sell
them? "Chris Phillipo" <cphillipo@ramsays-online.com> wrote in message news:MPG.1adb3d4f56d42bd298a556@news.eastlink.ca... > In article <7y1cc.18805$Rh.6332@fed1read05>, dstepper@NOSPAMcox.net > says... > > I am so tried of my rear brake (Hayes HFX with a 6 inches rotor) squealing > > like a stuck pig. Problem is when it is hot it will not be quite. Been > > living with this intermittent problem since I bought my Turner 5-spot over > > one-year ago. I have tried all the suggestions gleamed from this group, to > > no avail. Did not have this problem on my old bike with cheap 525 Hydraulic > > Shimano Deores. > > > > I am ready to try another brakes and open to suggestions. The first brake > > set that comes to mind is Avid Juicy Seven's. > > > > > > > > Was one of those suggestions you tried to scrub the rotor with alcohol > and switch to Kool Stop pads? > -- > _________________________ > Chris Phillipo - Cape Breton, Nova Scotia > http://www.ramsays-online.com |
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#5 |
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So far no luck at local stores or on line stores will have to call one of
the stores listed on Kool Stop's web site. "Chris Phillipo" <cphillipo@ramsays-online.com> wrote in message news:MPG.1adb8527a8a0a52798a55a@news.eastlink.ca... > In article <Noecc.19278$Rh.8899@fed1read05>, dstepper@NOSPAMcox.net > says... > > Have not tried Cool Stop pads...would like to try them, where do they sell > > them? > > > > I would imagine just about every bike shop carries them. There's not > much point in stocking OEM pads these days. http://www.koolstop.com > > -- > _________________________ > Chris Phillipo - Cape Breton, Nova Scotia > http://www.ramsays-online.com |
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Chris Phillipo wrote: >> >> > > Well we have them in stock at the shop if you can't find them. Personally, I have had phenomenal luck with EBC pads, but I would have to agree that the stock pads (on any system I have tried) are no match for the aftermarket. Dean, have you tried blue goo? Miles |
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#8 |
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"miles todd" <mdtodd@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:R3qcc.212$nd1.142@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > Chris Phillipo wrote: > > >> > >> > > > > Well we have them in stock at the shop if you can't find them. > > Personally, I have had phenomenal luck with EBC pads, but I would have > to agree that the stock pads (on any system I have tried) are no match > for the aftermarket. > > Dean, have you tried blue goo? I use regular grease on the backs of my pads. Less squeal, no probs! -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
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#9 |
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I have not had luck with EBC Green. What is Blue Goo? That is a new one to
me. "miles todd" <mdtodd@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:R3qcc.212$nd1.142@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > Chris Phillipo wrote: > > >> > >> > > > > Well we have them in stock at the shop if you can't find them. > > Personally, I have had phenomenal luck with EBC pads, but I would have > to agree that the stock pads (on any system I have tried) are no match > for the aftermarket. > > Dean, have you tried blue goo? > > Miles > |
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#10 |
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Chris Phillipo wrote: >> > > I find the EBC gold to be the same as the Hayes stock pads, I like the > Kool Stop better though, I think they are just that little bit softer so > they bed in easier. I haven't tried the gold, just the green. They stop better than the Hayes pads, run quiter, and love you long time. Blue goo is sold under many brand names at auto parts shops, but as far as I can tell it is all the same. Look for it under "disc brake anti-squeal compound" and you will find it. Use it on the hub surface that mates against the back of the rotor, not on the back of the pads. Miles |
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#11 |
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Thanks
"miles todd" <mdtodd@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:J5Acc.1331$nd1.444@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > Chris Phillipo wrote: > >> > > > > I find the EBC gold to be the same as the Hayes stock pads, I like the > > Kool Stop better though, I think they are just that little bit softer so > > they bed in easier. > > > I haven't tried the gold, just the green. They stop better than the > Hayes pads, run quiter, and love you long time. > > Blue goo is sold under many brand names at auto parts shops, but as far > as I can tell it is all the same. Look for it under "disc brake > anti-squeal compound" and you will find it. Use it on the hub surface > that mates against the back of the rotor, not on the back of the pads. > > Miles > |
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#12 |
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Dean A. Stepper wrote: > Thanks I hope it works for you. My experience with disc brakes has been that howls are typically hub issues. If you changed hubs, the noise would most likely vanish. However, since that is not often feasible, the blue goo usually does the job. Miles |
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#13 |
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"miles todd" <mdtodd@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:qmEcc.55164$h85.69@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > Dean A. Stepper wrote: > > Thanks > > I hope it works for you. My experience with disc brakes has been that > howls are typically hub issues. If you changed hubs, the noise would > most likely vanish. However, since that is not often feasible, the blue > goo usually does the job. ??? The disc brake pads are what are causing the high-frequency vibrations, not the rotor itself. The rotor is solidly anchored to the hub, and any grease you might put between the rotor and the hub would not help with anything. The pads, however, often just sit on top of (next to) the pistons, so greasing that side helps dampen the vibrations. Disc brakes on cars have the blue goo on the rear of the PAD and not the rotor to prevent squealing. Greasing the rear of the pads on the MTB has worked well for me. -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
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#14 |
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ZeeExSixAre wrote: > "miles todd" <mdtodd@san.rr.com> wrote in message > news:qmEcc.55164$h85.69@twister.socal.rr.com... > >> >>Dean A. Stepper wrote: >> >>>Thanks >> >>I hope it works for you. My experience with disc brakes has been that >>howls are typically hub issues. If you changed hubs, the noise would >>most likely vanish. However, since that is not often feasible, the blue >>goo usually does the job. > > > ??? The disc brake pads are what are causing the high-frequency vibrations, > not the rotor itself. The rotor is solidly anchored to the hub, and any > grease you might put between the rotor and the hub would not help with > anything. The pads, however, often just sit on top of (next to) the > pistons, so greasing that side helps dampen the vibrations. > > Disc brakes on cars have the blue goo on the rear of the PAD and not the > rotor to prevent squealing. Greasing the rear of the pads on the MTB has > worked well for me. > It is the friction of the pads on the rotor grabbing and letting go, grabbing and letting go in an extremely rapid cycle that causes the howl. The rotor vibrating is what you hear, but both the pad and the rotor together are what create the noise. Some hubs by their nature propogate the noises better than others, but if a layer of some vibration-deadening material abuts the rotor it won't vibrate quite so much. The theory with cars and blue goo on the back of the pad is that the rotor is a huge, heavy piece of stuff and it is simply easier to place the vibration-damping material on the smaller, more accessible side of things. On bicycles, though, the contact area between the pad and the piston is tiny- not generally enough to do the job. I am quite surprised that you haven't suffered severe consequences of your greased up brake pads. It seems to me that those little things get mighty hot, and melted grease has a habit of flowing, perhaps to places you really wouldn't want it to. It'd never have occurred to me to use grease in this application, but I guess if it has worked for you, then maybe I'm too much of an alarmist. Still, I wouldn't do it. Miles |
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#15 |
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"miles todd" <mdtodd@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:TUGcc.55186$h85.29497@twister.socal.rr.com... > It is the friction of the pads on the rotor grabbing and letting go, > grabbing and letting go in an extremely rapid cycle that causes the > howl. The rotor vibrating is what you hear, but both the pad and the > rotor together are what create the noise. Some hubs by their nature > propogate the noises better than others, but if a layer of some > vibration-deadening material abuts the rotor it won't vibrate quite so much. > The theory with cars and blue goo on the back of the pad is that the > rotor is a huge, heavy piece of stuff and it is simply easier to place > the vibration-damping material on the smaller, more accessible side of > things. On bicycles, though, the contact area between the pad and the > piston is tiny- not generally enough to do the job. > I am quite surprised that you haven't suffered severe consequences of > your greased up brake pads. It seems to me that those little things get > mighty hot, and melted grease has a habit of flowing, perhaps to places > you really wouldn't want it to. It'd never have occurred to me to use > grease in this application, but I guess if it has worked for you, then > maybe I'm too much of an alarmist. Still, I wouldn't do it. I was aware, and very careful. It's not a flowing type of grease... it's actually very thick. It's distributor cam grease from a tube that's about 20 years old. I wouldn't be surprised if it is more like Locktite in its behavior. The pistons themselves aren't that tiny, IMO. Avid mechs are a little less than an inch in diameter, no? -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
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