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#1 |
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What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur,
etc on a hybrid used mostly for road touring? A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease? I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop. Thanks, Ian -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
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#2 |
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ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca wrote:
> What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, > derailleur, etc on a hybrid used mostly for road touring? > > A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 > in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease? > > I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced > bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop. I like chainsaw oil or motor oil for drive train. Grease for hubs. -- Benjamin Lewis Hey! I'm only fourteen, sickly 'n' thin Tried all of my life just to grow me a chin It popped out once, but my dad pushed it in. -- FZ |
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#3 |
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"Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
message news:40d1b3fd_6@corp.newsgroups.com... > What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, > derailleur, etc on a hybrid > used mostly for road touring? > > A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 > in 1 light machine > oil), or a heavier grease? > > I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced > bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop. > > > Thanks, > > Ian > Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be best. If you really want to go cheap, I've heard that used motor oil from a car makes an excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease will collect way too much dirt and probably won't work into the pins very well. Bob C. |
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#4 |
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In article <40d1b3fd_6@corp.newsgroups.com>, "Ian \(remove
the antispam \)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> says... > What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, > derailleur, etc on a hybrid used mostly for road touring? > > A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 > in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease? > > I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced > bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop. I find that 10W30 motor works well, and doesn't hold dirt and grit as much as heavier and/or stickier lubes do. The 3-in-1 oil might be ok as long as you kept up frequent applications. I wouldn't use WD-49 though; too many volatiles which quickly evaporate. -- Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in the newsgroups if possible). |
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#5 |
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On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:07:49 -0400, "Ian \(remove the antispam\)"
<ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote: >A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 >in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease? Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain operating at peak efficiency. -- Rick Onanian |
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#6 |
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> Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain
> operating at peak efficiency. Anyone using goose fat? |
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#7 |
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"Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
message news:40d1b3fd_6@corp.newsgroups.com... > What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, > derailleur, etc on a hybrid > used mostly for road touring? > > A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 > in 1 light machine > oil), or a heavier grease? > > I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced > bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop. Chain saw chain lube |
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#8 |
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On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:20:07 -0400, "psycholist" <technico@wctel.net>
wrote: > >"Ian (remove the antispam)" ><ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in message >news:40d1b3fd_6@corp.newsgroups.com... >> What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, >> derailleur, etc on a >hybrid >> used mostly for road touring? >> >> A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 >> in 1 light >machine >> oil), or a heavier grease? >> >> I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced >> bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop. >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Ian >> > >Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be >best. If you really want to go cheap, I've heard that used >motor oil from a car makes an excellent chain lube. WD 40 >won't do and heavy grease will collect way too much dirt >and probably won't work into the pins very well. > >Bob C. > My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is suppoed to be a type of wax, and not a type of oil. I was told by a LBS owner: 1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was 'lanolin'. It collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is almost entirely 'wax' and little else, and it is the most resistant to dirt-collection. 2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off the bike and thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then left to dry overnight. The transporting agent would evap., leaving the waxy substance on the chain 3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for the outside, i.e. the chain in the sprockets. You're actually lubing the inner spindle and posts inside the chain that lets the individual chain segments move freely as they go around the circuit. Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!) -Badger |
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#9 |
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Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam wrote:
> What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, > derailleur, etc on a hybrid > used mostly for road touring? > > A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 > in 1 light machine > oil), or a heavier grease? WD-40 too thin. You'd have to apply it every day, I think. 3-in-1 too sticky thick for chains. Mind you, I defer to the actual experience (if any) of those who use these lubes. Triflow is a good choice, I think. If you want something lighter try a dry lube with teflon (and remember to reapply often and after wet). Dry lubes are thinner but don't attract as much dirt. |
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#10 |
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tk wrote:
>> Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain >> operating at peak efficiency. > > Anyone using goose fat? Canadians only. Bill "poor tip" S. |
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#11 |
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On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:00:59 -0400, Badger_South <Badger@South.net>
wrote: >Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who >wants to charge my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!) Seems reasonable. Maybe I'd start at $ 25 and add $ 5 if they told me they had already tried to true it and failed. Lord knows what you'd be dealing with. Curtis L. Russell Odenton, MD (USA) Just someone on two wheels... |
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#12 |
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"Badger_South" <Badger@South.net> wrote in message
news:l8j3d09q0cn5hmk7eif6jg8b3fqjv1c5h0@4ax.com... > On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:20:07 -0400, "psycholist" > <technico@wctel.net> wrote: > > > > >"Ian (remove the antispam)" > ><ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > >news:40d1b3fd_6@corp.newsgroups.com... > >> What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, > >> derailleur, etc on a > >hybrid > >> used mostly for road touring? > >> > >> A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier > >> (3 in 1 light > >machine > >> oil), or a heavier grease? > >> > >> I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small > >> overpriced bottle of "chain > >> lube" at the bike shop. > >> > >> > >> Thanks, > >> > >> Ian > >> > > > >Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be > >best. If you really want to go cheap, I've heard that > >used motor oil from a car makes an > >excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease > >will collect way too > >much dirt and probably won't work into the pins > >very well. > > > >Bob C. > > > > My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is > suppoed to be a type of wax, and not a type of oil. > > I was told by a LBS owner: > 1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was > 'lanolin'. It collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is > almost entirely 'wax' and little else, and it is the > most resistant to dirt-collection. > 2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off > the bike and thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then > left to dry overnight. The transporting agent would > evap., leaving the waxy substance on the chain > 3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for > the outside, i.e. the chain in the sprockets. You're > actually lubing the inner spindle and posts inside > the chain that lets the individual chain segments > move freely as they go around the circuit. > > Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who > wants to charge my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!) > > -Badger > I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds pretty anal to me. I wonder if there's any research that suggest how many more miles (if any) you get if you go through all that nonsense. On my road bike, I clean my chain thoroughly (on the bike with a chain cleaning device and degreaser, followed by soap and water) about every 300 miles. Then I re-lube with Pedros extra dry (I rarely have to ride in damp conditions). Between cleanings, I'll spray with an LPD-9 spray lube and wipe down really well about every third ride. This seems to work fine. Bob C. |
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#13 |
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tk wrote:
>> Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain >> operating at peak efficiency. > > Anyone using goose fat? Ask Wolfgang Puck. Matt O. |
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#14 |
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On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 14:40:18 -0400, "psycholist" <technico@wctel.net>
wrote: >I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds >pretty anal to me. I wonder if there's any research that >suggest how many more miles (if any) you get if you go >through all that nonsense. Since most people would be discouraged from ever doing it in the first place, not many more. Even if you did do it, I wonder if the replacement would come at about the same time from other factors other than simple lubrication issues. Curtis L. Russell Odenton, MD (USA) Just someone on two wheels... |
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#15 |
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On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:07:49 -0400, "Ian \(remove the antispam\)"
<ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote: >What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, >derailleur, etc on a hybrid used mostly for road touring? > >A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 >in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease? > >I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced >bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop. I've just now reviewed the fourteen responses to this post that have thus far arrived on my ISP's mail server and couldn't find a valid answer. Not only that, some provided misinformation. First of all, WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. Don't use it for this purpose. Hubs require grease. You can use the boutique bike greases available at your LBS, or go to an auto parts store (or even a K-Mart or equivalent) and buy some axle grease. For the price of a tube of one of the boutique greases you can buy a small tub of the automotive equivalent. Derailleurs should be lubricated with a light oil. I lubricate the jockey wheel bushings with motor oil, and the pivot pins with Tri-Flow, but that's just me. You could also use motor oil or probably 3-in-1 for the pivot pins. Chain lubrication is a religious issue. The prime directive of chain maintenance is: Never Lubricate a Dirty Chain. There are lots of ways to clean a chain, some of which even work. There are even more chain lubes. Longevity is more related to cleanliness than choice of lubricant. I still hot wax the chains on my "good bikes", and use White Lightning on my touring and mountain bikes. Motor oil, chain saw oil, hypoid gear oil, etc.; all seem to work also. Your choice. jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3 |
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