I want to TT with my PowerTap!

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All,

Need some advice on using a PowerTap to TT with. I have it laced to a 32h American Classic Hurricane rim right now. Very strong and mildly heavy, but not the most aero wheel in the world. I bought a CH-Aero cover for it, but that truly jacks the weight up. Should I go with the cover or order a 32h custom Zipp Carbon Rim? I really want a wheel I can use for both road and TT, training and race. I figure the 58mm carbon is strong enough and still aero enough to ride everywhere....

Thoughts?

The Flash

All,

Need some advice on using a PowerTap to TT with. I have it laced to a 32h American Classic Hurricane rim right now. Very strong and mildly heavy, but not the most aero wheel in the world. I bought a CH-Aero cover for it, but that truly jacks the weight up. Should I go with the cover or order a 32h custom Zipp Carbon Rim? I really want a wheel I can use for both road and TT, training and race. I figure the 58mm carbon is strong enough and still aero enough to ride everywhere....

Thoughts?

The Flash
I ride my Zipp 303 Clincher wheel on almost every ride and plan on racing itin every type of race (crit, road, hilly or flat). Its not light, but it is aero and it gives me the much needed data I hope I can use to help me prepare for the next season.

Personally I think your better off with the wheel cover for a flat or slightly rolling TT course. Thats what i plan on buying for my 303-a cover.

I ride my Zipp 303 Clincher wheel on almost every ride and plan on racing itin every type of race (crit, road, hilly or flat). Its not light, but it is aero and it gives me the much needed data I hope I can use to help me prepare for the next season.

Personally I think your better off with the wheel cover for a flat or slightly rolling TT course. Thats what i plan on buying for my 303-a cover.
I'm in Florida, so mostly everything is flat. I am thinking about getting a 404 tubular and using it for everything. I prefer the tubies for riding, and luckily have never had a flat on them. I could still get a new cover if needed then......

The Flash!

I'm in Florida, so mostly everything is flat. I am thinking about getting a 404 tubular and using it for everything. I prefer the tubies for riding, and luckily have never had a flat on them. I could still get a new cover if needed then......

The Flash!

Sounds like you just want to buy some bling. Go to analyticcycling and check the difference in weight on your 40K time. even a variation like 2 kilos would only make a few seconds difference.

All,

Need some advice on using a PowerTap to TT with. I have it laced to a 32h American Classic Hurricane rim right now. Very strong and mildly heavy, but not the most aero wheel in the world. I bought a CH-Aero cover for it, but that truly jacks the weight up. Should I go with the cover or order a 32h custom Zipp Carbon Rim? I really want a wheel I can use for both road and TT, training and race. I figure the 58mm carbon is strong enough and still aero enough to ride everywhere....

Thoughts?

The Flash
Weight is going to make very little difference in a flat tt. I'd go with the CH aero cover. You also mentioned below getting 404 tubulars, which I'd stay away from. Fast clinchers tend to be much faster (on the order of ten + watts at times) than relatively equivalent tubies.

I too have a zipp 303 and use it for everything;I thought those covers were USCF illegal now so didn't buy one-anyone know if thats true?

I too have a zipp 303 and use it for everything;I thought those covers were USCF illegal now so didn't buy one-anyone know if thats true?
They are still legal...I spoke with the Tech director for USCF and he confirmed it. It is also in the rulebook, but I forget the exact spot.....

The Flash

Sounds like you just want to buy some bling. Go to analyticcycling and check the difference in weight on your 40K time. even a variation like 2 kilos would only make a few seconds difference.
I'll go double check it....I may want the bling, but I think you just talked me out of it.....

The Flash!

Weight is going to make very little difference in a flat tt. I'd go with the CH aero cover. You also mentioned below getting 404 tubulars, which I'd stay away from. Fast clinchers tend to be much faster (on the order of ten + watts at times) than relatively equivalent tubies.
I had heard this before, but I think I had forgotten about it....I am going to hold off on that rim order and just keep the PT where it is....

The Flash

They are still legal...I spoke with the Tech director for USCF and he confirmed it. It is also in the rulebook, but I forget the exact spot.....

Starting in 2008, all national championships on the road and track (incl juniors, masters, U23, elites) will adhere to UCI bike rules, which prohibit wheel covers. Same deal for NRC races (note that typically only Pro/1 men and Pro/1/2 women can even start NRC events).

So the cover is still fine this year for masters nats, NRC events...next year you can still use it for your local TTs, state championships, etc...borrow a disk (or a PT/Blackwell 100) if you just do masters nats...if you're a rider that rides NRC races regularly, then you ought to have a sponsor who will buy you an SRM. :)

Starting in 2008, all national championships on the road and track (incl juniors, masters, U23, elites) will adhere to UCI bike rules, which prohibit wheel covers. Same deal for NRC races (note that typically only Pro/1 men and Pro/1/2 women can even start NRC events).

So the cover is still fine this year for masters nats, NRC events...next year you can still use it for your local TTs, state championships, etc...borrow a disk (or a PT/Blackwell 100) if you just do masters nats...if you're a rider that rides NRC races regularly, then you ought to have a sponsor who will buy you an SRM. :)
I'm just a podunk local rider who will probably do States this year. Turns out that my buddy wants to buy one of my TT bikes, so I can afford to put it on a Zipp rim now. I should have it in about 2 weeks and I will probably seel the disc cover off as well.

I still have a full disc wheel that I can use if needed, but having the PT for all around use will be very good. My pacing needs help and the PT doesn't lie....

Flash

Weight is going to make very little difference in a flat tt. I'd go with the CH aero cover. You also mentioned below getting 404 tubulars, which I'd stay away from. Fast clinchers tend to be much faster (on the order of ten + watts at times) than relatively equivalent tubies.


Id like to see some real data on this.
I cant see how a quality well stuck on Tub can be >10 watts higher RR than a tyre.

I saw a couple of dpcuments but they looked more like "marketing reasearch".

Anyone got anything comparing say Conti Podium/Tufo/Zipp to a good tyre?

Id like to see some real data on this.
I cant see how a quality well stuck on Tub can be >10 watts higher RR than a tyre.

I saw a couple of dpcuments but they looked more like "marketing reasearch".

Anyone got anything comparing say Conti Podium/Tufo/Zipp to a good tyre?
No real data, but I want to know why a Tufo seems so loud when riding....any other tire seems to be rather quiet compared to my Tufo tubular. Is this a sign of rolling resistance?

Flash

Id like to see some real data on this.
I cant see how a quality well stuck on Tub can be >10 watts higher RR than a tyre.

I saw a couple of dpcuments but they looked more like "marketing reasearch".

Anyone got anything comparing say Conti Podium/Tufo/Zipp to a good tyre?

If i'm not mistaken (and i maybe) the wattage list discussed Tufo tubs last year or the year before, and (i think) the conclusion was that the rolling resistance of them was terrible.

ric

Anyone got anything comparing say Conti Podium/Tufo/Zipp to a good tyre?
http://www.biketechreview.com/tires/AFM_tire_crr.htm
http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/tech/JL.htm
http://bikepages.ultimade.nl/index.php4?page=tyretest&lang=en

Also, the German magazine Tour published some tests a couple years ago, .jpg's of their findings have been posted on various sites. I don't recall whether they used a huge roller or velodrome testing. Nothing in their results was inconsistent with the 3 links above though.

http://www.biketechreview.com/tires/AFM_tire_crr.htm
http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/tech/JL.htm
http://bikepages.ultimade.nl/index.php4?page=tyretest&lang=en

Also, the German magazine Tour published some tests a couple years ago, .jpg's of their findings have been posted on various sites. I don't recall whether they used a huge roller or velodrome testing. Nothing in their results was inconsistent with the 3 links above though.
I got my new wheel built up last week and it is sweet! It feels really good and worked well in a very windy TT on Thursday. So now I've got a pretty aero wheel and all my power data!

The Flash

if I can bend this thread a bit (to not have another thread) and ask what display rate do you use to TT with your Power taps? I did a short test the other day on my KK trainer and I think I was burning myself out chasing the wattage up and down. I am wondering if (yes I will reread manual when i get home) there is a way to display wattage more smooothed out, but capture the data at 1 sec intervals?


is that clear?

Any other ways to use Power to pace a TT efforts that have worked for you?

TIA,
Ray
p.s. maybe nt the best thread for this,but the title sure sounds perfect!!

I am wondering if (yes I will reread manual when i get home) there is a way to display wattage more smooothed out, but capture the data at 1 sec intervals?

Yes you can, if you have the pro cpu head (not the PT std head). I find 10 second smoothing works best for TTs. And for everything, really. I don't have the menu commands committed to memory though. But it can be done.

Yes you can, if you have the pro cpu head (not the PT std head). I find 10 second smoothing works best for TTs. And for everything, really. I don't have the menu commands committed to memory though. But it can be done.yes-you may be right about that level of smoothing. It drives me bonkers on the workouts where I am 100% power based trying to hold a wattage (like 285 on the nose). In 5 seconds time I can have wattage read up and down in a 40 watt range and I am SURE that I am accelerating when it reads low and backing off when it reads high and doing this non-stop for a full interval is hard!!

Thanks shawndoggy and no worries on how to change display-I'll get it figured out now that I know its possible.