Gears slipping on EZ CX Speedster

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If I shift to a cog higher than the 2nd while using the middle chainring, the gears seem to slip. I found that if I moved the chain routing tubes back a bit, that helped. But now, they're as far back as they can go and the problem has returned.

Shifting to the big ring solves the problem, but that's a jump bigger than I would normally try. The problem seems to be chain tension. The bigger ring means less slack in the chain.

On a somewhat related note, shifting to the small chainring is unreliable.

Does anyone have any ideas?

-- David

(shifting issues) ..... Does anyone have any ideas?
-- DavidI never had an issue with bad shifting but I got rid of most of the tubing on mine, and made a different tubing bracket. The result was less noise and chain drag. See this page (http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcimper/assorted/inanities/recumbent/speedster/speedster_tube.html)

....Someone else posted on BROL in the last couple days that he figured out that by putting a plastic tube around the chain idler shaft, he could get rid of all the chain tubes.
~

I never had an issue with bad shifting but I got rid of most of the tubing on mine, and made a different tubing bracket. The result was less noise and chain drag. See this page (http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcimper/assorted/inanities/recumbent/speedster/speedster_tube.html)

....Someone else posted on BROL in the last couple days that he figured out that by putting a plastic tube around the chain idler shaft, he could get rid of all the chain tubes.
~

Thanks, Slugster. I'll be printing your web page and go work on my bike!

Many things can cause the symptom you describe. Defective or frozen chain links, worn cogs, mechanical misalignment, B screw adjustment, ect, ect. Therefore, I suggest you swing by your LBS and have them take a quick, look-see. Probably won't cost you a dime.

If I shift to a cog higher than the 2nd while using the middle chainring, the gears seem to slip. I found that if I moved the chain routing tubes back a bit, that helped. But now, they're as far back as they can go and the problem has returned.

Shifting to the big ring solves the problem, but that's a jump bigger than I would normally try. The problem seems to be chain tension. The bigger ring means less slack in the chain.

On a somewhat related note, shifting to the small chainring is unreliable.

Does anyone have any ideas?

-- DavidTry bending the metal tab on the chainguide wheel located under the seat to keep the chain in that guide. I have found that my bike would slip in and out of gears when the chain would ride out of the chainguide wheel especially after hitting bumps in the road which was causing the chain to flap which caused the chain to jump out of the guide. It is always the lower loop that causes the problem for me.The chain would then rub against the guide and not ride in the guide like it should. As the chain rubbed against the side of the wheel, the angle of the chain would not be straight on and that was causing the chain to jump into other gears.