Chainring bolts

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I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect
I will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes.

When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones
with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque
to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a
dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use
loctite 242 or lubricate.

Warm regards
David James

On Tue, 13 Apr 2004 15:14:06 -0500, David James <ddjames@raccoon.com>
wrote:

>I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect
>I will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes.
>
>When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones
>with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque
>to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a
>dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use
>loctite 242 or lubricate.
>
>Warm regards
>David James


If you're using 5 steel bolts on the road, use antiseize. If you're
using 4 aluminium bolts off road, loctite them. For intermediate
situations, one or other of these methods should work!


Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

David James wrote:

> When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones
> with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque
> to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a
> dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use
> loctite 242 or lubricate. =20

You should absolutely, positively _not_ use Loctite on chainring bolts=20
if you ever hope to get them apart in the future.

Best is a drop of medium-weight oil (I use Phil Wood) on the bolt=20
threads, making sure not to get any oil on the outside of the nuts.=20
That way, you'll usually be able to tighten (and loosen) the bolts=20
sufficiently without needing to hold the nuts with a pin wrench.

Sheldon "Last Resort:=20
http://harriscyclery.net/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=3D545" Brown
+-----------------------------------------------+
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| Gilbert & Sullivan's Thespis at M.I.T. |
| April 9-10,15-17 http://web.mit.edu/gsp/www |
| http://sheldonbrown.com/music.html |
| Photos: http://sheldonbrown.org/g-s/thespis |
+-----------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

David James wrote:
> I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect I
> will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes.
> When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones with
> the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque to
> spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a dab
> of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use
> loctite 242 or lubricate.
> Warm regards David James



I think Loctite 242 covering the threads is a good idea. I would
carefully clean external and internal threads first. I haven't tried
them or even seen them, but the chainring bolts with Torx heads hold
some attraction to me. By size of the threads and torque specification
you wouldn't need grease, but if I weren't using Loctite 242 I would use
either grease or anti-sieze compound. I am not trolling for boudreaux
with the mention of anti-sieze.



--

RE/
>Should I just torque
>to spec,

Toasting a series of alu chairing bolts by feel was the impetus that got me to
buy a torque wrench.

Now I use steel and blue LocTite - but still a torque wrench.

--
PeteCresswell

>You should absolutely, positively _not_ use Loctite on chainring bolts
>if you ever hope to get them apart in the future.
>

too late I just did it (G) but all it takes is a little heat to melt the loctite
so it is not permanent.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Best is a drop of medium-weight oil (I use Phil Wood) on the bolt
threads,


Sheldon,
What do you think about bees wax on chainring bolt threads?

Regards,
Larry

> Sheldon,
> What do you think about bees wax on chainring bolt threads?

No no, wax only on the nipples.


"Larry Fieman" <_antispam_fieman@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:sx2fc.128169$gA5.1548884@attbi_s03...
>
>
> Best is a drop of medium-weight oil (I use Phil Wood) on the bolt
> threads,
>
>
> Sheldon,
> What do you think about bees wax on chainring bolt threads?
>
> Regards,
> Larry
>
>

ddjames-<< When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones
with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque
to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a
dab of loctite? >><BR><BR>

Grease onto the threads and also a wee bit onto the crank flats where the rings
live and then tight. be careful, these are aluminum...NOT loctite, IMO-

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

On Tue, 13 Apr 2004 15:14:06 -0500, David James <ddjames@raccoon.com>
wrote:

>I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect
>I will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes.
>
>When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones
>with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque
>to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a
>dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use
>loctite 242 or lubricate.
>
>Warm regards
>David James


Thanks for all the replies. I have the Phil Wood lube and will go
with that. I do have a pin wrench, but no torque wrench. I will
tighten until reasonably snug.
David James

On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 03:49:44 GMT, "Larry Fieman" <_antispam_fieman@comcast.net>
wrote:

>
>
>Best is a drop of medium-weight oil (I use Phil Wood) on the bolt
>threads,

they kept coming loose so I used the loctite. lots of vibrations on some of the
bike paths.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

David James wrote:

> I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect
> I will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes.
>
> When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones
> with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque
> to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a
> dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use
> loctite 242 or lubricate.

I've never, ever had them come loose. Assuming you're using stock steel
bolts, they bite into the softer alu chainring which stops them unscrewing.