MTB pedals on a road bike?

Since 2001, over 90,000 cyclist's have joined Cycling Forums to discuss topics from general cycling to equipment, training, racing and travel or vacation destinations (especially in europe during the tour de france). We also feature an great deals in our online store, 100's of articles, classifieds and product reviews.

Gents:
I just purchased a "like-New-1997-Bianchi-Veloce" on ebay for $380.00.
Italian made, steel frame, Campy equiped.
To me, this sounded like a good deal. Please tell me you agree.

On to my silly-question-of-the-day:
I will need to buy pedals for the bike.
I already own a pair of SPD-mountain bike shoes and I am cheap.
Will I be able to mount mountain bike pedals on this bike?
Is there any reason not to?
I would like to be able to swap the pedals from my road bike to mountain
bike as necessary. (However, I am not yet sure if the crank-threads are
the same from bike-to-bike.)

Thanks,
Rick

rickn wrote:

> Gents:
> I just purchased a "like-New-1997-Bianchi-Veloce" on ebay for $380.00.
> Italian made, steel frame, Campy equiped.
> To me, this sounded like a good deal. Please tell me you agree.
>
> On to my silly-question-of-the-day:
> I will need to buy pedals for the bike.
> I already own a pair of SPD-mountain bike shoes and I am cheap.
> Will I be able to mount mountain bike pedals on this bike?
> Is there any reason not to?
> I would like to be able to swap the pedals from my road bike to
> mountain bike as necessary. (However, I am not yet sure if the
> crank-threads are the same from bike-to-bike.)

Yes, they are. Remember the left pedal is reverse-threaded, though. Make sure
you put the right pedal on the right side, so you don't strip the threads.

MTB pedals are fine. IMO they're better because they have clips on both sides.
Single sided road pedals are inconvenient, and usually more expensive. There's
no reason to bother with them unless you need one of the larger platform
designs. Most people don't.

I use the same MTB pedal on both my road and mountain bikes. When I bought my
road bike, I looked for another pair of my old Shimano SPDs on eBay. I paid $20
for some NOS, in a factory box w/ new cleats, and I couldn't be happier.

Matt O.

I use mtb pedals -- Speedplay Frogs -- on all my bikes: road, mtb,
touring.

With stiff soled shoes, like Sidi Dominator 4's, I don't see any
disadvantages on the road and plenty of advantages (eg ease of
walking; also I like the float of the Frogs better than the Speedplay
X/2's, which I used previously).

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 00:49:16 -0400, rickn wrote:

> Gents:
> I just purchased a "like-New-1997-Bianchi-Veloce" on ebay for $380.00.
> Italian made, steel frame, Campy equiped.
> To me, this sounded like a good deal. Please tell me you agree.

A deal you are happy with is a good one. Sounds like a good bike for not
much money to me.

>
> On to my silly-question-of-the-day:
> I will need to buy pedals for the bike. I already own a pair of
> SPD-mountain bike shoes and I am cheap. Will I be able to mount mountain
> bike pedals on this bike?

Yes

> Is there any reason not to?

No.

I would like to be
> able to swap the pedals from my road bike to mountain bike as necessary.
> (However, I am not yet sure if the crank-threads are the same from
> bike-to-bike.)

Threads are the same. Only low-end bikes with Astabula cranks tend to
have a different size.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | When you are up to your ass in alligators, it's hard to remember
_`\(,_ | that your initial objective was to drain the swamp. -- LBJ
(_)/ (_) |

Mark Hickey <mark@habcycles.com> wrote in message news:<mh6l70pgtkn0eg4vnkn3ekl21ttldn9hcm@4ax.com>...
> "Mike Jacoubowsky" <mikej1@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> >A lot of very serious riders use double-sides SPDs on their road bikes.
>
> The vast majority of miles I put on my road bike are with double-sided
> SPDs (Ritchey, actually), for all the reasons Mike mentioned.
>

Ditto here. I use double-sided SPD pedals (elderly Shimano PD-M737's
for the most part) even though most of the riding I do is on the road.
Far more convenient than even the single-sided SPD's I've tried.

Jeff

Hi Rick, Congrats on the new purchase of the Bianchi. $380 Sounds
great to me for a like new Bianchi Veloce. Crank Pedal threads on the
Bianchi should be 9/16"x20.
I guess the bottom line is, is to use what you like the best. I
recommend just buying another set of Pedals, and leave them on the
Bianchi. Not really a good idea to be constantly taking them on, and
off. These newer MTB Pedals are not all that expensive.

Don't forget to coat the pedal threads with some Anti-Seize before
installing them. Any Auto Parts store, and Wally World will carry
small tubes of this stuff. Enjoy the "new" bike, Mark


Mountain Bike Pedalrickn <rickn> wrote in message news:<MPG.1ae3e9bb5b98dfd6989682@news-60.giganews.com>...
> Gents:
> I just purchased a "like-New-1997-Bianchi-Veloce" on ebay for $380.00.
> Italian made, steel frame, Campy equiped.
> To me, this sounded like a good deal. Please tell me you agree.
>
> On to my silly-question-of-the-day:
> I will need to buy pedals for the bike.
> I already own a pair of SPD-mountain bike shoes and I am cheap.
> Will I be able to mount mountain bike pedals on this bike?
> Is there any reason not to?
> I would like to be able to swap the pedals from my road bike to mountain
> bike as necessary. (However, I am not yet sure if the crank-threads are
> the same from bike-to-bike.)
>
> Thanks,
> Rick

My answer is pretty much the same as everyone else's. For week long
tours such as RAGBRAI, BAK, CNC, CANDISC, Pedal the Peaks, I put my
double sided SPD747 pedals on my beautiful Waterford 1200 with
wonderful Campagnolo Chorus. And use my mountain bike shoes. These
are all week long 500 mile rides. On loaded tours I also use the
SPD747 pedals on my touring bike. Walking around lunch stops, sag
stops, campgrounds, scenic overlooks, etc., its easiest to use SPD
style pedals and shoes.

For dedicated road rides such as brevets, one day road rides, I put on
the Time Equipe road pedals. On these rides I am covering miles and
not spending much time walking around off the bike. Road pedals are
superior for actually pedaling. But on many rides the ease of off
bike wwlking is better to have.



rickn <rickn> wrote in message news:<MPG.1ae3e9bb5b98dfd6989682@news-60.giganews.com>...
> Gents:
> I just purchased a "like-New-1997-Bianchi-Veloce" on ebay for $380.00.
> Italian made, steel frame, Campy equiped.
> To me, this sounded like a good deal. Please tell me you agree.
>
> On to my silly-question-of-the-day:
> I will need to buy pedals for the bike.
> I already own a pair of SPD-mountain bike shoes and I am cheap.
> Will I be able to mount mountain bike pedals on this bike?
> Is there any reason not to?
> I would like to be able to swap the pedals from my road bike to mountain
> bike as necessary. (However, I am not yet sure if the crank-threads are
> the same from bike-to-bike.)
>
> Thanks,
> Rick

apoman60612@yahoo.com (Mark) wrote:

> Don't forget to coat the pedal threads with some Anti-Seize before
> installing them. Any Auto Parts store, and Wally World will carry
> small tubes of this stuff. Enjoy the "new" bike, Mark

There's no need for anti-seize here, as ordinary grease will do the job
just as well, is cheaper and is already wherever bikes are worked on.

--
Ted Bennett
Portland OR

Frogs here also on all my three road bikes and MTB. Fours sets of pedals,
one pair of shoes!

Dan Hertlein

"Eagle Jackson" <eaglejackson@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c6996826.0404120932.3d071440@posting.google.com...
> I use mtb pedals -- Speedplay Frogs -- on all my bikes: road, mtb,
> touring.
>
> With stiff soled shoes, like Sidi Dominator 4's, I don't see any
> disadvantages on the road and plenty of advantages (eg ease of
> walking; also I like the float of the Frogs better than the Speedplay
> X/2's, which I used previously).

russellseaton1@yahoo.com (Russell Seaton) wrote in message
> Road pedals are superior for actually pedaling.

Or do you mean, people who use road pedals feel superior?

The issue may be shoe stiffness not pedals. FWIW, Frog II cleats can
be used on road shoes.

Ted, Grease is certainly NOT a satisfactory substitue for an
anti-seize compound. Being a mechanic by trade for 30+ years, I've
seen other guys use regular grease to coat threads on bolts, etc., and
seen these same bolts snap, or strip whatever they were threaded into
further on down the road. (Especially with dissimilar metals)

You might think grease is better than nothing, but in most case gives
absolutely no improvement vs nothing at all. Read up on this.

Really, does it pay to cheap out for a $3 tube of Anti-seize? As
mentioned before too, constantly changing out Pedals over, and over
isn't a good idea either. Mark

Ted Bennett <tedbennett@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<tedbennett-AD5C4C.18575012042004@news3.west.earthlink.net>...
> apoman60612@yahoo.com (Mark) wrote:
>
> > Don't forget to coat the pedal threads with some Anti-Seize before
> > installing them. Any Auto Parts store, and Wally World will carry
> > small tubes of this stuff. Enjoy the "new" bike, Mark
>
> There's no need for anti-seize here, as ordinary grease will do the job
> just as well, is cheaper and is already wherever bikes are worked on.

apoman60612@yahoo.com (Mark) wrote:

>Ted, Grease is certainly NOT a satisfactory substitue for an
>anti-seize compound. Being a mechanic by trade for 30+ years, I've
>seen other guys use regular grease to coat threads on bolts, etc., and
>seen these same bolts snap, or strip whatever they were threaded into
>further on down the road. (Especially with dissimilar metals)
>
>You might think grease is better than nothing, but in most case gives
>absolutely no improvement vs nothing at all. Read up on this.

Are you talking about bicycle applications, or "mechanical"? It's
been my VERY different experience that grease will be adequate for
just about anything on a bicycle (and will certainly be better than
"nothing" if only in preventing creaking noises). I do recommend AS
when installing ti or aluminum bolts (hate to hear that *pop* and see
the puff of smoke from the galling otherwise).

>Really, does it pay to cheap out for a $3 tube of Anti-seize? As
>mentioned before too, constantly changing out Pedals over, and over
>isn't a good idea either. Mark

I make it a point to take my pedals off once every couple years. ;-)

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame

Mark wrote:

> Ted, Grease is certainly NOT a satisfactory substitue for an
> anti-seize compound. Being a mechanic by trade for 30+ years, I've
> seen other guys use regular grease to coat threads on bolts, etc., and
> seen these same bolts snap, or strip whatever they were threaded into
> further on down the road. (Especially with dissimilar metals)
>
> You might think grease is better than nothing, but in most case gives
> absolutely no improvement vs nothing at all. Read up on this.
>
> Really, does it pay to cheap out for a $3 tube of Anti-seize? As
> mentioned before too, constantly changing out Pedals over, and over
> isn't a good idea either. Mark
>
> Ted Bennett wrote
> > There's no need for anti-seize here, as ordinary grease will do the job
> > just as well, is cheaper and is already wherever bikes are worked on.

Anti-seize may indeed be useful in fixed joints, but a pedal-crank joint
is not fixed. Red iron oxide rouge is commonly found there in the case
of steel pedal spindles, indicating the movement. There has been a lot
of discussion of this, and other faults of this joint.

I'll stand by my statement. Grease in a moving joint will do the job
just as well as anti-seize, as demonstrated by the lack of pedals that
seize into cranks. The far more common problem is fretting of the
surface of the aluminum crank, leading to cracks around the threaded eye.

--
Ted Bennett
Portland OR

"Peter Cole" <peter_cole_no_spam_at_all@comcast.net> wrote in message news:<DEQec.27857$xn4.49892@attbi_s51>...
> "Russell Seaton" <russellseaton1@yahoo.com> wrote
>
> > Road pedals are
> > superior for actually pedaling.
>
> How so?

1. Larger pedal surface to push against. Pressure spreads out more
and far less likely to feel the smaller SPD or Frog or ATAC cleat
through the sole of the shoe. Stiff shoes help, but do not solve the
problem. I have a pair of Carnac road shoes with their UCV3 sole, and
a pair of Carnac mountain bike shoes with their UCV3 sole. Same sole
on both shoes except the mountain bike shoe sole has plastic lugs
glued to the bottom. Both were $200 or so shoes in the late 1990s.
Their top of the line shoe at the time. On long rides of 80 plus
miles I can feel the SPD cleat. On long rides of 180 miles on the
Time road pedal, I can't feel the Time cleat through the shoe.

2. Less slop between the cleat and the pedal. On SPD pedals and
cleats, you can pull your foot up and feel a little slop. Its not a
zero clearance fit. On my Time pedals and cleats, you cannot pull up
and feel any slop. SPD and Frog and ATAC are designed for mud and
slop. They have to accomodate a little slop between the cleat and
pedal. There has to be some room for this slop to go and still allow
the pedal and cleat to interface.

3. More secure grip between pedal and cleat. I can yank my foot out
of my SPD pedals and have when I was ready to fall. I cannot rip my
foot out of my Time Equipe pedals and do fall over. Road cleats such
as the Time or Look have a large cicumference for the pedal to grab
onto. And fairly large hooks on the front or back of the cleat that
the pedal grabs onto. More surface area is being grabbed by the pedal
on road cleats. In contrast an SPD cleat has about 1/2 inch of cleat
circumference in front and 1/2 in back for the springs to push against
and grab. I prefer my Time pedals in a sprint.

How many pros ride SPD road pedals? Shimano sponsors many riders but
I don't recall their SPD road pedal being much of a hit in the pros.
They developed the SPD-R to fix this problem with no one liking their
SPD road pedal. Then they developed their Look style pedal to fix the
problem of nobody liking their SPD-R road pedal. But they are still
using the SPD for mountain bikes. If the SPD was superior on the road
to regular road pedals, the pros would use them. Their fame and
fortune is made by winning. If a pedal can help, they will use them.

And if the SPD style of pedal and road pedals are equal for road use,
then you would expect to see an equal number of Shimano sponsored
riders using their road pedals and an equal number using their
mountain bike pedals in the pro peloton. And with Time sponsored
riders you would expect to see an equal number of riders using the
Impact/Equipe pedals and an equal number using the ATAC pedals. And
with Speedplay sponsored riders you would expect to see an equal
number of riders using the Zero pedals and an equal number using the
Frog pedal. If mountain bike pedals and road pedals are truely equal
for road use, there is no reason for pro riders to favor one over the
other. Shimano and Time and Speedplay and others would pay them the
same either way. But they aren't equal for road riding. And I would
guess the pros use road pedals over mountain bike pedals on the road
because of the three reasons listed above.

On 14 Apr 2004 17:26:59 -0700, russellseaton1@yahoo.com (Russell
Seaton) wrote:
>"Peter Cole" <peter_cole_no_spam_at_all@comcast.net> wrote in message news:<DEQec.27857$xn4.49892@attbi_s51>...
>> "Russell Seaton" <russellseaton1@yahoo.com> wrote
>> > Road pedals are superior for actually pedaling.
>> How so?
>
>1. Larger pedal surface to push against. Pressure spreads out more

This is a solution to a problem many/most people don't have.

>2. Less slop between the cleat and the pedal. On SPD pedals and
>cleats, you can pull your foot up and feel a little slop. Its not a

A personal preference, at most. I've never noticed any slop, even
when using $20 SPD pedals (and their cleats) on hard-soled road
shoes.

>3. More secure grip between pedal and cleat. I can yank my foot out
>of my SPD pedals and have when I was ready to fall.

Sounds like a mis-adjustment. The only combination I have which
allows me to yank my feet out (and I've tried hard, standing still,
braced against the wall) is some very worn Shimano spd cleats on the
aforementioned $20 generic spd pedals, with said pedals adjusted to
their lightest tension. No problem with newer cleats, tighter
tension, or the same cleats in a different pair of pedals (at
lightest tension).

>I cannot rip my
>foot out of my Time Equipe pedals and do fall over.

Wow, I should put those road pedals I have back on the bike, for
this exact reason. I prefer to fall over in emergencies.

>How many pros ride SPD road pedals?

Pros tend to have different priorities than non-racers.

>If the SPD was superior on the road
>to regular road pedals, the pros would use them. Their fame and
>fortune is made by winning. If a pedal can help, they will use them.

That's if a pedal can help win races. Others have different
priorities.

I have a pair of road pedals that are going to go on a bike I intend
to use for TTs this summer. Apart from making use of stuff that's
collecting dust, the only reason I will is because they're slightly
more aerodynamic. I'll still come in last, but I ought to be faster
by a whole millisecond...

>And if the SPD style of pedal and road pedals are equal for road use,
>then you would expect to see an equal number of Shimano sponsored
>riders using their road pedals and an equal number using their
>mountain bike pedals in the pro peloton.

That's a quick way to lose a sponsorship. You ride what they want to
sell, or they sponsor somebody else.

Besides, as I said, their priorities are different. They don't need
to walk into a store to buy a powerbar or water. They don't need to
put a foot down on the ground at a traffic light without skidding.
They don't need to click in and out often, and try to flip the pedal
each time to do so, all while dodging automotive traffic. They don't
need to find parts to repair a broken pedal at the nearest LBS. They
don't need to put their foot back in the pedal after accidentally
stepping in some roadside dirt. The list could go on forever.

>If mountain bike pedals and road pedals are truely equal
>for road use, there is no reason for pro riders to favor one over the
>other.

For non-pro-racing use, they're not equal. Mountain bike pedals are
more practical for most non-racers. Some people do need to solve
specific problems, and find that road pedals solve those problems;
but support or slop are fit issues, not "superior for pedalling".
Road pedals are slightly more aero; and very expensive road pedals
are a few grams lighter than $20 mountain pedals.

The $20 mountain pedals are on sale for $17.49 right now, and listed
at 345 grams per pair. At nearly any price point, mountain pedals
are likely to be lighter than equivalently priced road pedals.
--
Rick Onanian