Dura Ace 10-speed housings

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I was doing my first build on a Dura Ace 10-speed and when I cut
the cable housing [used a Shimano TL-CT10] it sort of exploded. The outer
casing split about a centimeter down from the cut and the wires all
separated. When I tried to cut off the ruined portion, the same thing
happened again.

Has anyone had this happen, know why it happened, or have a
solution?

I used a housing from a 9-speed set. Is there a significant
difference between this housing and the 10-speed labeled "SIS SP 41"?

Along the same lines, Shimano instructs you to always cut the end
opposite from the writing, which I did, but why? Just to keep the Shimano
logo intact?

Pete Beall
--
www.petebeall.net

<< I was doing my first build on a Dura Ace 10-speed and when I cut
the cable housing [used a Shimano TL-CT10] it sort of exploded. The outer
casing split about a centimeter down from the cut and the wires all
separated. When I tried to cut off the ruined portion, the same thing
happened again.
Has anyone had this happen, know why it happened, or have a
solution?
I used a housing from a 9-speed set. Is there a significant
difference between this housing and the 10-speed labeled "SIS SP 41"? >>

Best way to cut housing cleanly is with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel. Those
Shimano diagonal cutters are terrible. I bought a pair and ended up throwing
them in the garbage.
I don't know about the 10sp housing, but generic 5mm shift housing works better
than the flimsy 4mm housing Shimano supplies with its 9sp Dura Ace shifters.
You'll get smoother, crisper shifts and fewer problems from friction and dirt.

Pete Beallwrote:
> I was doing my first build on a Dura Ace 10-speed and when I cut
> the cable housing [used a Shimano TL-CT10] it sort of exploded. The outer
> casing split about a centimeter down from the cut and the wires all
> separated. When I tried to cut off the ruined portion, the same thing
> happened again.
> Has anyone had this happen, know why it happened, or have a
> solution?
> I used a housing from a 9-speed set. Is there a significant
> difference between this housing and the 10-speed labeled "SIS SP 41"?
> Along the same lines, Shimano instructs you to always cut the end
> opposite from the writing, which I did, but why? Just to keep the Shimano
> logo intact?

It's the tool quality (or lack thereof).
We use Felco Swiss cutters.

Yes, that's just to keep the label.
(We ditch the plastic ferrules, too.)

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

> Along the same lines, Shimano instructs you to always cut the
end
> opposite from the writing, which I did, but why? Just to keep the Shimano
> logo intact?
No only. For rear derailer hosing it because the other end has some grease
in it.

Simon

pete-<< I was doing my first build on a Dura Ace 10-speed and when I cut
the cable housing [used a Shimano TL-CT10] it sort of exploded. >><BR><BR>

Throw all that 4mm crap out and use a good 5mm der housing.

pete<< Along the same lines, Shimano instructs you to always cut the end
opposite from the writing, which I did, but why? Just to keep the Shimano
logo intact? >><BR><BR>

of course. The stuff is the same thruout, it isn't different where the writing
is.


Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

"Pete Beall" <petebeall@cableone.net> wrote in message news:<107dvsasopdel57@corp.supernews.com>...
> I was doing my first build on a Dura Ace 10-speed and when I cut
> the cable housing [used a Shimano TL-CT10] it sort of exploded. The outer
> casing split about a centimeter down from the cut and the wires all
> separated. When I tried to cut off the ruined portion, the same thing
> happened again.
>
> Has anyone had this happen, know why it happened, or have a
> solution?
>
> I used a housing from a 9-speed set. Is there a significant
> difference between this housing and the 10-speed labeled "SIS SP 41"?
>
> Along the same lines, Shimano instructs you to always cut the end
> opposite from the writing, which I did, but why? Just to keep the Shimano
> logo intact?
>
> Pete Beall

Hi, I'm sorry I can't help you with the cable housing, but I thought I
would put in a good word for the Shimano TL-CT10 cutters. When I was
getting ready to upgrade the levers on my LeMond, I asked my favorite
mechanic at my LBS and although for everyday use he has a set of the
Felcos, he recommended the TL-CT10 for my situation of occasional use.
I got a set and they worked flawlessly.

I'm curious about using 5mm cable, is the inside diameter the same on
both?

Life is Good! [ Jay, I wouldn't call it a smiley face, more of an
attitude]
Jeff

jstarr-<< I'm curious about using 5mm cable, is the inside diameter the same on
both? >><BR><BR>

No 4mm is smaller on the inside..I use Mobil One to lube, not grease.



Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

jstarr@peoplepc.com (Jeff Starr) wrote in message news:<10c5841f.0404101602.366b6a86@posting.google.com>...
> Hi, I'm sorry I can't help you with the cable housing, but I thought I
> would put in a good word for the Shimano TL-CT10 cutters. When I was
> getting ready to upgrade the levers on my LeMond, I asked my favorite
> mechanic at my LBS and although for everyday use he has a set of the
> Felcos, he recommended the TL-CT10 for my situation of occasional use.
> I got a set and they worked flawlessly.
>
> I'm curious about using 5mm cable, is the inside diameter the same on
> both?

I have no issues using 4mm housing or the plastic ferrules. I clean
off some of the factory grease and add a bit of Mobile One oil. With
the ferrules, I push a pin through the hole to rid of the rubber
O-rings inside (for less friction).

To the OP, from what I have read, the new DA10 housing is the same
except "new and improved" Silicone lube. On the TL-CT10 cutter, I use
a Nashbar copy (Taiwan?) and works "well". It is probably your cutting
technique. Felcos are >$65, a bit much for me.

>> Along the same lines, Shimano instructs you to always cut the
> end
>>opposite from the writing, which I did, but why? Just to keep the Shimano
>>logo intact?

Szymon "Szymszy" Seliga wrote:
> No only. For rear derailer hosing it because the other end has some grease
> in it.

A kindly but anonymous reader emailed me about this. I was
wrong. Indeed, like Campagnolo's prelubricated casings, the
Shimano product has a bit of grease at the marked end only.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971