Mavic Open Pro recommended Spoke Tension?

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Does anyone know the recommended spoke tension for the Mavic Open Pro?
Their website doesn't have it. Perhaps someone with access to their Tech
Manual could look it up.

Thanks

"Bestest Handsander" <none@u.biz> wrote in message news:<PdednZSVWvUXoe_dRVn-sQ@aros.net>...
> Does anyone know the recommended spoke tension for the Mavic Open Pro?
> Their website doesn't have it. Perhaps someone with access to their Tech
> Manual could look it up.
>
> Thanks

Don't know the answer, but 100-120kgf for the front wheel and rear
right (drive) side should suffice or, (better) use the method
described in 'The Book': increase tension until the wheel begins to
distort when stress-relieved, then back off tension half a turn all
round and re-true. The latter method ensure the wheel is very close
to the maximum practical tension.

Nigel Grinter
Spokesperson
Well-Spoken Wheels

none@u.biz<< Does anyone know the recommended spoke tension for the Mavic Open
Pro? >><BR><BR>


100 kgf for the front and rightside rear.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

"Nigel Grinter" <ngrinter@aol.com> wrote in message
news:70d994f4.0404060514.5c447a48@posting.google.com...

> use the method
> described in 'The Book': increase tension until the wheel begins to
> distort when stress-relieved, then back off tension half a turn all
> round and re-true.

Could you rephrase that for the benefit of someone who can true wheels, but
would like to go a step further back and ensure all the spokes are correctly
tensioned.
Particularly the part:

> until the wheel begins to distort when stress-relieved

I have a stock set up of Mavic CXP23 on Sora

--
Thanks,
Mike W

Visionset wrote:
> "Nigel Grinter" <ngrinter@aol.com> wrote in message news:70d994f4.04040-
> 60514.5c447a48@posting.google.comnews:70d994f4.0404060514.5c447a48@post-
> ing.google.com...
> > use the method described in 'The Book': increase tension until the
> > wheel begins to distort when stress-relieved, then back off tension
> > half a turn all round and re-true.
> Could you rephrase that for the benefit of someone who can true wheels,
> but would like to go a step further back and ensure all the spokes are
> correctly tensioned. Particularly the part:
> > until the wheel begins to distort when stress-relieved
> I have a stock set up of Mavic CXP23 on Sora
> --
> Thanks, Mike W



I suggest you borrow the book through your library system if you want to
get a full understanding.
629.248 BRANDT "the Bicycle Wheel" Author: Jobst Brandt There is more
too it than just getting the measured tension at a "specified
level". Otherwise Peter Chisholm's number work on almost any
reasonable quality rims.



--

"VisionSet" <spam@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:<uoycc.81$nl6.73@newsfe1-win>...
> "Nigel Grinter" <ngrinter@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:70d994f4.0404060514.5c447a48@posting.google.com...
>
> > use the method
> > described in 'The Book': increase tension until the wheel begins to
> > distort when stress-relieved, then back off tension half a turn all
> > round and re-true.
>
> Could you rephrase that for the benefit of someone who can true wheels, but
> would like to go a step further back and ensure all the spokes are correctly
> tensioned.
> Particularly the part:
>
> > until the wheel begins to distort when stress-relieved
>
> I have a stock set up of Mavic CXP23 on Sora

Stress relieving involves grasping pairs of nearly-parallel spokes on
opposite sides of the wheel (one pair in each hand) and squeezing them
together HARD - you need to wear gloves to do this properly without
hurting your hands. If the wheel has not been previously
stress-relieved, it may go significantly out of true following this
treatment. After re-truing, however, the wheel should be hardly
affected by further stress-relieving. During the building process and
after the wheel is quite tight, 'The Book' recommends increasing
tension in small increments all round (quarter of a turn) and
stress-relieving. If you reach a point where the wheel suddenly goes
significantly out of true following stress relief, this indicates the
wheel is overtensioned and you need to back off about one half turn
all round before re-truing and stress-relieving a final time.

Hope this makes sense. If you want the full story, buy 'The Book'.

Nigel Grinter
Spokesperson
Well-Spoken Wheels

"Nigel Grinter" <ngrinter@aol.com> wrote in message
news:70d994f4.0404061430.6e2b7249@posting.google.com...

>
> Stress relieving involves grasping pairs of nearly-parallel spokes on
> opposite sides of the wheel (one pair in each hand) and squeezing them
> together HARD - you need to wear gloves to do this properly without
> hurting your hands. If the wheel has not been previously
> stress-relieved, it may go significantly out of true following this
> treatment. After re-truing, however, the wheel should be hardly
> affected by further stress-relieving. During the building process and
> after the wheel is quite tight, 'The Book' recommends increasing
> tension in small increments all round (quarter of a turn) and
> stress-relieving. If you reach a point where the wheel suddenly goes
> significantly out of true following stress relief, this indicates the
> wheel is overtensioned and you need to back off about one half turn
> all round before re-truing and stress-relieving a final time.
>
> Hope this makes sense. If you want the full story, buy 'The Book'.
>

Thanks very much, it makes perfect sense I'll give it a whirl.

--
Mike W