modify, or replace?

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im currently riding a (laugh if you must) mongoose (MGX)
D50, bought new at costco back in 98 or so. i ditched the
fattie tires and im running a pair of skinny michelins,
pumped up to 100psi. the rear shock is adjusted all the way
firm. i basically use it for bike trail use/exercise.

the problem im having is the gearing is just too low for me
now. i guess im a "gear masher", since i run the hardest
ratio all the time. front sprocket is a 41T, rear is 13T.
the valleys on the teeth of the 13 are starting to look
oval, with all the use it gets.

anyhow- ive been thinking about getting a dedicated road
bike, since its made for what i think i REALLY want to do.
after pricing front cranks/sprockets (the sprockets are
riveted to the crank), rear casettes, and stems (id like a
slightly higher lift, but the bars are ok), it comes to
about half the cost of a new bike.

and theres no guarantee the new parts will work with the
gruppo (i use that term jokingly) thats on there now.

i used to have a schwinn "world" in the mid 80s, and liked
it. well, except for the leaning on the bars, which is what
im doing now. and thats what id do if i got a road bike, i
imagine, unless i sprung for the "triathlete" style bars you
lean on. on the MGX, even with gloves on, my hands still go
numb. they did on the schwinn as well.

so i could pour some money into this department store bike
ive been happy with, buy a dedicated road bike and still
likely be uncomfortable without mods like the triathelon
handlebars, go for a recumbent for a lot more money, but
probably less speed.

what to do, what to do?

im 5'10", 200lbs, 30" inseam... any rough ideas of frame
sizes i should look for, if i go shopping for a road bike?
supergo has '03 cannondale R400s for about $550 that i saw
online, but have yet to actually go look at.

any other ideas? i REALLY dont want a $1000 bike, and ive
taken good care and got a lot of use out of the schwinn
world (RIP, years ago) and currently the MGX.

On Sat, 10 Jul 2004 02:37:55 GMT, SoCalMike
<mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote:

>
>what to do, what to do?
>
>im 5'10", 200lbs, 30" inseam... any rough ideas of frame
>sizes i should look for, if i go shopping for a road bike?
>supergo has '03 cannondale R400s for about $550 that i saw
>online, but have yet to actually go look at.
>
>any other ideas? i REALLY dont want a $1000 bike, and ive
>taken good care and got a lot of use out of the schwinn
>world (RIP, years ago) and currently the MGX.

If I could suggest, go to your LBS and ride a few different
bikes. Try a low end, a higher end, a hybrid, a road bike, a
tourer, and see which one you ride back to the shop with a
big grin on your face.

Take your time, ride a few bikes, even ride bikes that you
don't think you'll buy, just so you can get a feel for what
a smooth ride is, and soforth.

You might find something that is a perfect match that you
can add on Triathlon bars, and it may be a road bike. When
you find the bike that fits you, guess what? Price will
really be secondary.

I was lucky b/c I found my bike on the third bike I rode,
but it was solid and smooth and shifting was almost totally
transparent.

By taking your time and riding several different types, you
give yourself an education and you realize things about a
good bike that you didn't realize could feel so good.

In addition, consider what type of rider you are. Are you
interested in something to have fun on, go longer distances,
tour, or maybe a 'fitness rider'? Tell the LBS what type of
rider you are and sometimes they can make a suggestion.

Best bet? A non-suspension road bike with good components,
actually the best you can afford. Really -good- solid bikes
actually, IMO, start around $1200 - $1500 bucks and the
$1000 road bikes are really low end. However I went for a
Trek 7500FX (fitness model, no suspension) and I have a
wonderful ride for $600 bucks.

Don't follow the trend and buy a mountain bike to ride on
the road. You'll be unhappy and the bike will be too heavy
and you'll have shocks you don't need. You want light, fast
and solid. That's why I recommend Trek.

Good Luck

-Badger

On Sat, 10 Jul 2004 02:37:55 GMT, SoCalMike
<mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote:
>except for the leaning on the bars, which is what im doing
>now. and thats what id do if i got a road bike, i imagine,
>unless i sprung for the "triathlete" style bars you lean
>on. on the MGX, even with gloves on, my hands still go
>numb. they did on the schwinn as well.

Whatever you do, get yourself some aerobars. Sounds like you
need them.

>so i could pour some money into this department store bike
>ive been happy with, buy a dedicated road bike and still
>likely be uncomfortable without mods like the triathelon
>handlebars, go for a recumbent for a lot more money, but
>probably less speed.
>
>what to do, what to do?

A properly fit road bike will be comfortable. Proper fitting
may be difficult to find. However, the end result will be
superior to all of the above (except possibly the 'bent,
about which I know little).

>im 5'10", 200lbs, 30" inseam... any rough ideas of frame
>sizes i should look for, if i go shopping for a road bike?
>supergo has '03 cannondale R400s for about $550 that i saw
>online, but have yet to actually go look at.

I'm also 5'10", 210lbs, 30" inseam. My Giant TCR2 is a
"medium", and it's too small. I should have gotten a
"large".

>any other ideas? i REALLY dont want a $1000 bike, and ive
>taken good care and got a lot of use out of the schwinn
>world (RIP, years ago) and currently the MGX.

Do some curb shopping. Watch the curb on garbage day for
somebody discarding a bike like that Schwinn World (in fact,
I have a Schwinn World that I got that way). Rescue it, fix
it up. Many parts, believe it or not, can be found at
Walmart -- reasonably good 27" tires, tubes, maybe a chain.

Then, buy some aerobars for it. I like my Syntace C2.
--
Rick Onanian

On Sat, 10 Jul 2004 02:37:55 GMT, SoCalMike
<mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote:

>anyhow- ive been thinking about getting a dedicated road
>bike, i used to have a schwinn "world" in the mid 80s, and
>liked it. well, except for the leaning on the bars,

If nothing else, get a higher stem (within reason).
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/rr_comfposition.html
You'll be less "aero", but your wrists will thank you.

Also, personally I've never been comfortable on flat MTB
bars due to wrist pronation. http://www.ergomart.com/COMPUT-
ER_KEYBOARDS/Hand_Wrist_Posture.htm This position could be
at least a partial cause of your wrist issues. Road bike
bars, among others, offer more neutral hand positions.

>any other ideas?

I've been getting back into cycling, using my MTB (with
slicks and more comfortable bars) while my body
acclimates. So far so good, but I'm starting to think
about a road bike now.

I've been going to thrift stores and garage sales, finding
little-used name-brand '70s-'80s road bikes in different
sizes and geometries, for dirt cheap (Fuji, Nishiki,
Novara). So far I've spent $70 total on three bikes. Two of
them haven't worked out for me, so I've sold the two for $90
total. The third has promise, but if it doesn't work out
I'll sell it too and try again.

The good: I get to live with a bike for a while, and learn
more than I could on one test ride what size and shape works
for me before plunking down $1000 on a new bike. Or maybe
I'll find the perfect bike (give or take a stem swap) for
$20 or less. In the meantime I've still got my city-MTB.

The bad: my choices are limited to what other people
randomly discard. Also, I *really* like shifting and braking
from the same hand position, and I don't think I can get
that on a road bike on a thrift-store budget.

Good luck, Steve

"Steve-o" <yodelmoanerSNIP@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ccr89h$es3$0@216.39.143.5...

> I've been going to thrift stores and garage sales, finding
> little-used name-brand '70s-'80s road bikes in different
> sizes and geometries, for dirt cheap (Fuji, Nishiki,
> Novara). So far I've spent $70 total on three bikes. Two
> of them haven't worked out for me, so I've sold the two
> for $90 total. The third has promise, but if it doesn't
> work out I'll sell it too and try again.
>
> The good: I get to live with a bike for a while, and learn
> more than I could on one test ride what size and shape
> works for me before plunking down $1000 on a new bike. Or
> maybe I'll find the perfect bike (give or take a stem
> swap) for $20 or less. In the meantime I've still got my
> city-MTB.

Or, if you are in Chicago, go to the "Working Bikes
Cooperative" on Western Avenue. They have lots and lots of
Vintage Road bikes in varying degrees of condition. But they
rebuild very nicely. I am now riding an old Lotus from the
late 70's. Its a dream to ride.